I was recently told by a friend that I could eliminate some if not all the WB data skew by removing R136 and R138 from my board and use the ELD input for wideband instead of the factory narrowband D14 spot. This also has the benefit of full, unmodded 0-5V instead of 0-~3.5, something I've never used as I tune exclusively with Innovate LC1 or LM1 (I guess you PLX users already know about this). Anyway, I pulled the resistors off the board, but now I don't know how to make Crome look at the other input for the wb. I re-pinned my wideband into it, but I'm not getting anything on the laptop. Anyone know?

 

thats not true, you have no friends

-M@

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mattminer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thats not true, you have no friends

-M@</TD></TR></TABLE>

That was brilliant. But now I feel bad for the guy and hope he gets a clear answer.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by baller status &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

That was brilliant. But now I feel bad for the guy and hope he gets a clear answer.</TD></TR></TABLE>

mattminer is the friend that told me to do it

 

I don't have my notes in front of me, but those sound like the two to remove to get D14 ot read 0-5V and not clip at 3.5V. I could be wrong though.

Crome does not have the option to monitor an other input like that. (at least the current version doesn't)
eCtune does.

I've always asked people that want to do this... do you really need to be accurate with a reading over 3.5V? If the A/F is that far off adjust it till it reads below 3.5V.


Modified by Relic1 at 4:48 PM 4/18/2008

 

It's not about reading a full 5V, I could care less about that, it's about correcting the skew between the actual data from the wideband and what Crome ends up seeing. My LM1 reads about 1 point (AFR) richer than my laptop between 12 and 17 AFR. I would like it to be the same. It also spikes randomly while idling and stuff that's not reflected in the running or on the LM1 display.

 

move your grounding point for the wideband.
I connect directly to D22(gnd) and B1(12V), and have never had any offset nor spiky readings. Even with a friends LM1. (I run a PLX)

also make sure your connections are good, the jumping around at idle says to me that there is a connection problem.

 

I have thought about that, I used to run my LC1 in the car permanently and it didn't jump, but I also didn't compare the readings on Crome and on a gauge or something to see if they were different. Since I'm using an LM1 and it's in and out of a bunch of cars I use the cig lighter for power Anyway... still trying to put the O2 in through the ELD...

 

http://www.hrtuning.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=719

its to fix the graduated offset that lots of people have a problem with.

i stil cant get crome to open, but you cant see the ELD voltage in teh datalog?

-M@

 

i know i did this for my neptune RTP on my p28. I cut r136 and r138. It helped alittle i guess from throwing the numbers off when comparing it to my aem gauge. Lots of people did this for neptune i never heard people doing it for crome.. No biggy! it wont hurt you form what i know

But i know for neptune you can just go into preferences and change the widebands input for it to read the input from d14.

I'm not to sure about crome preferenece setup .