Upper rear strut bar.........suggest one
i have 01 integra ls dc4 with Koni/GC suspension. i have this horrible creak when i hit bumps at an angle and i believe its due to body flex. also some people have told me after they installed one, it removed the creak noise.
does anyone have suggestions? skunk 2 runs for about 125.... any cheaper one but also high quality??
Modified by TOO MUCH TORQUE at 10:29 PM 4/17/2008
does anyone have suggestions? skunk 2 runs for about 125.... any cheaper one but also high quality??
Modified by TOO MUCH TORQUE at 10:29 PM 4/17/2008
I have an upper rear strut bar, and my chassis still makes noise. It is what it is. I wouldn't worry about it...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tarmac Junkie »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have an upper rear strut bar, and my chassis still makes noise. It is what it is. I wouldn't worry about it...</TD></TR></TABLE>
x2, i use a cusco for what its worth, i doubt it will take away noise...
x2, i use a cusco for what its worth, i doubt it will take away noise...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tarmac Junkie »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have an upper rear strut bar, and my chassis still makes noise. It is what it is. I wouldn't worry about it...</TD></TR></TABLE>
whoops forgot to specify where the creek is. its near the hatch area, i think its wear the U that locks that hatch.
whoops forgot to specify where the creek is. its near the hatch area, i think its wear the U that locks that hatch.
If the noise is coming from there, I still don't think a rear strut bar will fix it, but I could be wrong. There's one way to find out...
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Hatchbacks (and wagons) are very flexible in the rear of the chassis because the whole rear end of the the structure is effectievly open and unbraced (take a cardboard box and close al sides then tape it all up, now cut one side out and see how much more floppy it becomes). The hatch or rear door does almost nothing to 'close the box' because the latch is not a robust / secure/ tight fastening in the lateral plane.
To tighten up the rear end you could try welding the hatch door closed, or if that's a teeny little bit extreme a good rigid rear tower brace should help, as will a rear X style brace. I won't guarantee it but I'll bet that fitting one or both of these braces makes the rear creaking at least less and quite possibly disappear, as well as sharpening up the steering and handling...
The best kind of X brace would attach to the chassis as high up as possible (say the rear seat belt anchor points), as well as to the tops of the rear strut towers and the floor pan, i.e. fully tri-angulate as much of the chassis as possible at / near the cross section where the rear suspension is located.
Modified by johnlear at 10:42 PM 4/21/2008
To tighten up the rear end you could try welding the hatch door closed, or if that's a teeny little bit extreme a good rigid rear tower brace should help, as will a rear X style brace. I won't guarantee it but I'll bet that fitting one or both of these braces makes the rear creaking at least less and quite possibly disappear, as well as sharpening up the steering and handling...
The best kind of X brace would attach to the chassis as high up as possible (say the rear seat belt anchor points), as well as to the tops of the rear strut towers and the floor pan, i.e. fully tri-angulate as much of the chassis as possible at / near the cross section where the rear suspension is located.
Modified by johnlear at 10:42 PM 4/21/2008
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