yesterday i decided to do some maintainence, i had found out that the o rings on the valve cover as well as its regular gasket were shot. i fixed all the gaskets and then burnt all the oil out and then did a little seafoam treatment. after all of which i took it out for a spin. it ran just fine, just like it should. after that i decided to do a compression test, after getting 180 on all cylinders i put everything back together, but now it wouldnt start.

theres only a few things i touched before the test. i unplugged the distributor, wires, plugs, and resistor box. all of which are perfectly put back in place, which is what stumps me as to why its not starting. ive got spark, i already tested that. ive got pressure in the fuel rail, and the pump primes fine as well.

im trying to brainstorm some ideas here as to what to check next. my next guess is eletrical, im going to check all fuses just to make sure. what do you guys think?

ps. sorry for any mis punctuation, im typing this from my phone.

 

the same old **** that you check every time dude

spark

fuel

compression

you obviously have the last one. Check for spark, then check the injectors with noid lights.

 

turn the engine over and pull the plugs. Smell them for gas. that will let you know if the injectors are firing.

there are only two things that control the injectors. Ecu and main relay. main relay supplies the power, Ecu tells them when to open and close.

 

by any chance did you take out the ecu fuse?

 

check wiring order on the dizzy

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by marks_lude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">check wiring order on the dizzy</TD></TR></TABLE>

yea, didnt think of that

you know, all you have to do is pull the fuel pump fuse or unplug the injector clips. You dont have to do anything with the distributor.

 

So your motor cranks, but does not fire up?

You've checked for spark by cranking motor with one plug at a time holding them near a grounded metal object in your car (block I've heard is used) and watched for spark?

Your wires from your distributor might not be at the right cylinders. I'm sure you've checked this BUT VARIFY just for our enlightenment. From left to right, top to bottom on the distributor CAP the numbers are 2,1,4,3. So those points on your cap need to be connected to their respective cylinders with the appropriate length of wire spark plug/wire.

Id also pull out your connectors from your dizzy and check to make sure electrical contact is present at ALL pins. I'm 99% sure its somewhere between your coil pack, distributor, and your spark plugs.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mgags7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the same old **** that you check every time dude

spark

fuel

compression

you obviously have the last one. Check for spark, then check the injectors with noid lights.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, I know, Im not a complete idiot. You MISSED where I said I had spark obviously, and I made an attempt to check for fuel by looking at the fuel rail PSI.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">turn the engine over and pull the plugs. Smell them for gas. that will let you know if the injectors are firing.

there are only two things that control the injectors. Ecu and main relay. main relay supplies the power, Ecu tells them when to open and close.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Only thing I havent tried yet, thanks for the idea

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CHK4TIX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">by any chance did you take out the ecu fuse?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Never took out the ecu fuse.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by marks_lude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">check wiring order on the dizzy</TD></TR></TABLE>

I never unplugged the wires from the cap, instead I unplugged the 2 wires that go to the distributor, so my order isint messed up

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

yea, didnt think of that

you know, all you have to do is pull the fuel pump fuse or unplug the injector clips. You dont have to do anything with the distributor.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

I chose to unplug the resistor box, I read that from a search on here. Also, the reason I did anything with the distributor was because as mentioned I left the plug wires on and I didnt want them jumping sparks around the engine while I was cranking it.

 

Video uploading now.

 

http://media.putfile.com/20080416-001

Battery is starting to slowly die, excuse me for that, I put the charger on after this. Though I dont know why it wants to kind of "reverse spin" at the end of turns if you can hear that.

I know the video doesnt help much otherwise, but its all just some form of troubleshooting to me and I know how it can be difficult helping someone with their car without adequate information

 

Just checked every plug, they're wet with gas, so I have fuel. I also doublechecked each plug wire for spark, and they've got it. Infact I shocked the **** out of myself by accident. Sure makes you feel alive!!!

But I'm still clueless. I've got spark, fuel, compression, and air.

 

Unplug every electrical connector you touched, look inside and make sure you didn't bend any pins over

 

ok if you have fuel and spark, you don't have any major electrical problems

My first suggestion is to ditch the bullshit spark plug wires and get some NGKs.

did you check the firing order? did you mess with t he wires when doing the compression test?

 

if you have fuel and spark in every cylinder then the only thing stopping it from starting is timing or firing order.

The distributor has an offset so you can only really install one way. Did you have to force the distributor in, or did it slide in? If you had to force it in, the distributor is 180* off.

 

as far as I know, you can't even get it to fit in the hole 180* out. could be wrong, guess I never attempted it.

 

Dry off the plugs and put them back in and try to fire it up...

 

No no, you mis understood again. I didnt TAKE OFF the distributor. I only unplugged the wires from it. My timing was actually just set when I did the dyno last week of 165hp, because we though that might be why i lost hp. So its not that.

Firing order is the exact same as you all described, which would make sense since i didnt unplug any of them or change the order by accident.

And how are these wires BS btw? theyre nology hotwires

 

okay, first, mgags, that picture is wrong. I TRIED that order just for ***** and giggles, and it was misfiring like a bitch. I had to keep on the gas to keep it up.

But thats whats funny. purposely putting on the wrong order actually made it fire up moreso then it does with the correct order. Granted I had to feed it gas, but it worked better. WTF. Did I just make an ultra noob mistake I dont know about or is there something deeper then that?

 

Okay. Well, I've got it running now. I think this all may be related to the ignition problems I've been having recently. As some of you may of seen the other day I asked about my doors auto unlocking and key chime going off with no key in the ignition. Well I decided to check my ECU plugs and make sure they were fine. At the time my key chime was going off still (with key in my pocket) and I was reposistioning the ECU and it magically stopped chiming. I fiddled with the wires and it went in and out of chiming. I posistioned it in a spot that didnt have the chime, and gave it a few cranks. It was pretty flooded, but it started right up.

Who would of known.

 

would have known

just being nitpicky

anyways, it sounds like you have a bad connector or some bad wires down there, figure out whats going on with that, I wouldn't drive it until I did.

 

Did you pull the fuel pump fuse when you did the compression test? A mate of mine had similar symptoms, and it was due to his cylinders being to flooded to start. He pulled the plugs, dried them off, allowed some of the fuel to evaporate out of the bores, and it sorted it out.

 

It only goes on 1 way. Ive tried.<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mgags7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">as far as I know, you can't even get it to fit in the hole 180* out. could be wrong, guess I never attempted it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Acidcrakker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It only goes on 1 way. Ive tried.</TD></TR></TABLE>

word

 

freaking shyt...i have the same dayem problem...re did my timing and car wont start...timing is dead on...have spark fuel and pressure....brand new coil and rotor for my dizzy...im out of ideas....ran before i redid my timing...tried both p28 ecu and gsr ecu....cranks and just sounds like the video posted above...help me out guys... i've done the timing so many damn times and left my plugs out for a night just incase it was flooded

 

Sounds flooded. Pull plugs dry em like someone previous said. anytime u dont pull the fuse ur just cranking excessive fuel and not burning it. and being preludes run pig rich to start, im sure it all just nice and wet down there.