From what I've been reading on here though search; the general consinsis is that 200's+ are good, 150-190 is meh, 130 min spec, and below is bad. What are possible causes of 180's across the board? Seems pretty even, and its not too far down from better then average, but I want to try to solve why my car lost 20HP across the board last week at the dyno.

 

Those are pretty *** results. They are pretty consitant. But major loss in HP and Crappy compression, If I had to take an educated guess from your last thread, Id say your running lean.

The possibilty of running lean, will make your engine run hotter, over time diminessing your compression. Will it instantly happen? No it wont.

Is this your issue, mabey, mabey not, but at 180 in all cylinders, Id like to know why.

Check your plugs


Modified by Acidcrakker at 9:20 AM 4/16/2008

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Acidcrakker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Those are pretty *** results. They are pretty consitant. But major loss in HP and Crappy compression, If I had to take an educated guess from your last thread, Id say your running lean.

Check your plugs</TD></TR></TABLE>

acid, you continue to speak from your *** on this board. stop.

OP: 180 flat across the board is GREAT! You're looking for consistency with that test, and you got exactly what you wanted. Differences between gauges, elevation, and climate mean that you can't compare numbers absolutely.

This is NOT the reason your car feels like ***. Look elsewhere.

 

Read again.

Your gauge may read 120psi and mine may read 150psi on the exact same engine.

Wait a week and yours might get 130psi.

Drive up the mountain and you might get 110psi.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Acidcrakker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Tell me how? Okay there are motors out there that have 250k miles on them and still have 220 compression on all cylinders.

He has 180.

I have lost compression in 1 clyinder cause that one was running lean.

Im not lying either. All my other cylinders are 215 and Ihave 1 @ 200 and thats because the fuel injector wasnt working correctly rnning the motor lean, and deminishing compession over time.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have NO idea where you are getting your info from but running rich or lean has NOTHING to do with the compression held by a cylinder at ANY point in time. Compression is a ratio between the volume of the cylinder, when the piston is at the bottom of its stroke, and the volume when the piston is at the top of its stroke, having a cylinder running lean or rich does not change this EVER. Whoever told you this or what ever led you to believe this is completely confused or just plain stupid, but I will give them the benefit of the doubt...


Modified by LudeLooker at 4:25 PM 4/15/2008

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mgags7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

acid, you continue to speak from your *** on this board. [please] stop.

OP: 180 flat across the board is GREAT! You're looking for consistency with that test, and you got exactly what you wanted. Differences between gauges, elevation, and climate mean that you can't compare numbers absolutely.

This is NOT the reason your car feels like ***. Look elsewhere.</TD></TR></TABLE>

x10000000 the whole post, with emphasis on the bolded portion.

 

The plugs are brand new now. I had LOTTTSSS of oil leaking down through the O rings on the valve cover, I burnt it all away and did a sea foam treatment after to be sure. I took it for a test drive and it ran great, though I don't think it was a 20HP increase (which is what I lost VS my previous dyno) but it definitely ran smoother.

Im in kansas, its about 65* at the test time, not sure what numbers I really should be looking for still though.

 

as long as they are even all is good. Guage readings can be out, what you want to see is all readings within 10%.

 

Im having this wicked crazy problem now. After finishing this all up, my car wont start for some reason. It'll just turn.

This is crazy, because after I changed the plugs and gaskets (before compression test) I took the car for a run around the block, it worked fine. Now after the test I cant get it going again. I've got ~40psi in my fuel rail, and I know I've got spark I checked for that. I've got plenty of gas in the tank. My resistor box and dizzy are all plugged back in since the test.

Any ideas?

 

recheck everything. something has to be unplugged if its not firing.

 

I've checked checked and rechecked dude

I unpluged the dizzy, i unpluged the plugs, wires, and resistor box. All of which are back in and in order, thats what I dont get, it ran just fine a little while before the test.

 

Did you pull the fuel pump fuse before you did the comp test?

 

i didnt pull the fuel pump fuse, i pulled the resistor box. maybe one of the fuses is blown or something.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Acidcrakker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Those are pretty *** results. They are pretty consitant. But major loss in HP and Crappy compression, If I had to take an educated guess from your last thread, Id say your running lean.

The possibilty of running lean, will make your engine run hotter, over time diminessing your compression. Will it instantly happen? No it wont.

Is this your issue, mabey, mabey not, but at 180 in all cylinders, Id like to know why.

Check your plugs


Modified by Acidcrakker at 9:20 AM 4/16/2008</TD></TR></TABLE>

Wow..internet wisdom strikes again

Those are actually pretty decent numbers especially if your looking at over 100k. Worn rings ,cylinder walls, and valves are your most comon causes of compression loss...

 

timing belt slipped ?

 

Timing is right on. It was done the other day at the shop.

 

You guys are a bunch of asses.

If you dont think running lean can wear down compression, you are just plain retarded.

What does runing lean mean. It means your not running enough gas in your A/F ratio.

Your engine gets hotter over time and adds to premature engine failure. Depending on how lean you are running it can happen, slowly destroy your rings and anything else that heat destroies.

Okay I had it happen to me. Thats where Im getting my info from.

I dont care to argue but thats my reasoning.

Does it mean that is this guys issue, no. It was just an idea to try and help him out.
The End

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Acidcrakker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You guys are a bunch of asses.

If you dont think running lean can wear down compression, you are just plain retarded.

What does runing lean mean. It means your not running enough gas in your A/F ratio.

Your engine gets hotter over time and adds to premature engine failure. Depending on how lean you are running it can happen, slowly destroy your rings and anything else that heat destroies.

Okay I had it happen to me. Thats where Im getting my info from.

I dont care to argue but thats my reasoning.

Does it mean that is this guys issue, no. It was just an idea to try and help him out.
The End</TD></TR></TABLE>

For the LAST freaking time compression psi numbers are NOT useful for comparing with another person's test.

 

Okay who ever said I was comparing numbers, I guess your assuming Im comparing his numbers with my numbers. Im not. Im looking at the numbers that were OEM Spec, and what they are now.

Thats it, nothing more.

 

What OEM spec? That is the exact same thing. ANY numbers gotten elsewhere are invalid. Much like comparing dyno numbers

Stop trying to lie and make **** up to dig your way out of being wrong. You were wrong, be a man and accept it.

 

A man?? Look jack *** Im telling you 225 is the number they come out of honda on. Not 180. All Im offering this guy is an Idea as to something that might be wrong with the motor, thats all.

Im lying prove it. Seriously, I dont care what you have to say. Running lean will enduce premature engine ware on valves, rings, pistons, anything on the motor. Depending on how lean the car might be running, and time also is another factor in there.

Now show me the lie there, huh? Ill be waiting.

Im not out to prove anyone wrong, but you saying that is bullshit, is bullshit.

180 might be fine for his motor. I Dont care, But if I was this guy, I would want to know what happen to the other 45 compression points. Face it you are wrong, just like last time you called me out and then you were apoligizing for being wrong.

 

FWIW, my Helms manual lists normal compression for the h22 is 185. An old engine with higher than spec reading is not necessarily a good thing. It could simply mean heavy carbon build-up on top of the pistons or on the face of the valves. Such build-up can cause engine knocks due to the increased of compression and the reason why older engine sometimes requires higher than spec octane fuel to keep the knocks away.


Modified by JT at 11:33 AM 4/17/2008

 

well If thats what the helms says, Im wrong then.

I aways understood 225 right out of honda.

 

185 is the helmes spec for average compression on an h22a4. 225 maybe on a JDM or type S motor

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Acidcrakker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

180 might be fine for his motor. I Dont care, But if I was this guy, I would want to know what happen to the other 45 compression points. Face it you are wrong, just like last time you called me out and then you were apoligizing for being wrong.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Your cement forehead is still not letting you understand this.

Compression testers read radically different numbers across the board due to climate, elevation, tester, etc. Read it. Think about it.

Then remove the long erection from your butt and stop whining.

Also, if you're going to try to "school" me on things, learn how to spell first.