i have this topic listed on a few forums and i am getting no info.. i have done my research and have found nothing on these few subjects.


























and here is my webpage with all pics of this build.
http://community.webshots.com/user/acuraocd

PLEASE CHECK BACK!!!!

 

i also have this posted in welding fabrication.. not sure where it should be posted. but here is the link https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/2276722

 

WHats your question or problem?

 

Also my build is like 3 topics down "my new project" already been through what you have done so far, some pictures in there might help with some ideas

 

my questions are there is the vacume line module on the fire wall. i put it under the cowl and there are about 5 vacume lines coming off it. jsut wondering the best place to run those hoses


this is the module i am talking about

this is where i put it



then on the fuse box under the hood .. what goes in the plug that is right above the plug with the long yellow wire. it looks like somthing was plugged in there but i can't find anything unless its in the firewall from pulling it threw and can't find it.


then on the firewall there is a harness that goes down towards the ground to the left of the mast brake cylnder.. red and black wire. can figure out where that went. i have no empty harness for it to plug nito.


the fuel catch can. i found a few catch cans but none say it for the fuel. they all say oil catch can.. any ideas..

then last question.. just havn't gotten this far yet but i am wondering the best way to do the brake lines.. i was going to take 2 braided lines from the master then bring them to fittings on the firewall that go to the inside of the car, then to the proportioning valve. then flange the end of the two rear lines and rum braided line to that and then have to more lines coming back in the engine bay from the prop. valve to each front wheel. but i dont have much room under the dashboard.

any good ideas to do this..

 

first i will say i am very dedicated to this car.. i have not missed one thing yet.. but now its time for the engine bay compartment and motor swap. i am doing a JDM b16a1 with some easy bolt ons for now. a wire tuck. and engine bay shave. and heres for the big part i just started last saterday and i only have 3 weeks for the car to be painted and another month to have the car done.

so i need you guys. everyone that has useful information for me as i have never done this part before. i have done a decent amount of research but there is a lot i am still blury about..

This is what i will be doing to the car:
b16a1 with some easy bolt ons for right now
wire tuck
engine bay shave
inline fuel filter
re-routing brake lines
removed ac, power steering, wiper motor, washer fluid, cruise control,
relocating the fuse box inside the car
hiding the coolant over flow


so far i have taken the motor out.. removed all the wireing, all power steering hoses. and removed a few other things. i have welded shut most of the holes accept for the firewall.

here is what the car looked like before the tuck.





What is done to the car now:

1990 Acura Integra LS

JDM:

JDM One piece headlights
JDM Bumper lights
JDM Fenders
JDM Side markers
JDM Thin side moldings
JDM Armrest
JDM Rear wiper plug
JDM Power folding mirrors
JDM Gauge cluster w/MPH
JDM Honda emblems
JDM Clock
JDM DA license plates

Performance:

AEM cold air intake w/bypass valve
Hi Flow cat.
Thermal cat back exhaust
ECU chip

Audio:

CompuStar Alarm w/ power locks, trunk pop, knock sensor and remote start
Pioneer Avic N1 touch screen all in one GPS unit
Pioneer iPod hook up
Back up camera in trunk key hole
Planet Audio Highs
Planet Audio Tweets in doors
JL 1000/1 amp
JL 300/4 amp
JL 13.5 W7 sub
Alumapro 5 farad capacitor
Full fiber glass trunk enclosure w/ red LED and Mirror plexi in port hole
Chipped Xbox w/power inverter, wireless internet card and wireless controllers
Yellow cap Optima battery
Digital read out battery terminals
Two 4 gauge power wires
Tsunami distributor blocks
Dynamat throughout the whole car

Interior:

Momo Millennium steering wheel
Momo Air metal sphere shift ****
Momo Shift Boot
Momo Floor mats
Momo Pedals
Sparco 4 point seat belts
DC Sports Short throw shifter
B&I black carbon fiber dash kit
Door panels, roof, arm rest and trunk trim wrapped in micro suede
Custom carpet
Windows 20% tinted

Exterior:

Full custom Torino Red paint (R72P)
-painted roof sills, side moldings, bumper strips
4 door rear handles (no keyholes)
92 Integra front and rear bumpers
Wings West R.S. Front lip
Wings West R.S. Side skirts
Wings West R.S. Rear Lip
Honda Civic SI wheels (powder coated silver)
Falken Azenis 205/50R15 tires
Suspension Techniques-front and rear lower sway bars
Eagle-dustless brake pads
PowerSlot-rotors
Steel braided brakes
Tien true Coilovers
Fully rebuilt under carriage
Wheel bearings, bushings, inner outer tie rods, calipers, ball joints, etc.
Wiper arms (powder coated black)

Thanks to the following people for their time and patience:
Kevin @ ProStreet Unlimited (Parts)
Chris @ Traffic Jams (Audio and electrical)
Shaun @ Sunnyside Acura (All stock parts)
Dan @ D&D Automotive (Mechanic)
Staff @ Advanced Auto Parts (Parts)
Willie @ Perris Auto body (use of Paint booth)
Dick @ Sanel’s Auto
Ed @TB Applied powder coating


and here is my webpage with all pics of this build.
http://community.webshots.com/user/acuraocd


Modified by acuraocd at 8:59 PM 4/14/2008

 

damn that is one hell of a god build and i would think your done, looks good

 

damn good work bro

keep up dated

 

I wish I knew how to wire and do a wire tuck on my bay

Yours looks good tho man

 

good stuff, im planning to do the same with my biatch.

btw i have the same knife
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It looks like its coming out clean.

 

still have questions un answered

 

first pic, you can get rid of the valves but you have to keep the map sensor. you have to run a vacuum to it. one cleaner option is to buy a newer year throttle body with the map sensor on top, so you can run one less vacuum hose.