We have got most of the bugs worked out in our JDM H22 Swap in an EG.

Since you Prelude guys know best.

My problem: Between3-4k there is ALOT of vibration and flat spots in the torque curve (butt dyno) and it just seems sluggish as hell till 5k (vtec crossover).

Whats been done: Cam Timing (5000000 times its DEAD ON!!!)
Ignition timing is 15d btdc (checked with 2 different guns)
<U>Everything</U> in the distributor has been replaced.
Plugs have been replaced twice.
Sensor voltages including TPS, MAP (replaced with 2 known good working MAP's) Have been checked and double checked and triple checked.
IAB's are disconnected currently (hooked up to ECU but no vacuum)
EGR hooked up to ECU but disconnected on Vacuum as well (When it was hooked up it was causing a hesitation between 2-3k.)

ONLY check engine light 12, low egr lift.
Drove with another known working JDM p13 ecu.
Drove with a JDM p30 ecu, vibration and flat lining went away but had no power, and only did 1 run with the p30.

Going to replaced water temp and IAT sensor for ***** and giggles.

Cleaned IAC, seems to have a CONSTANT high idle no matter what the hell we do!!!! and then the next day it almost dies because its so low with NO changes.

Only thing I can think of.... 02 sensor being bad!!?!?

And!! haha saved the best for last, I am seeing close to 60psi of fuel pressure with Vac. line disconnected and close to 48psi with it connected.

Working on getting my AEM FPR to fit, could this fuel pressure problem cause it to run like this!? Plugs are a beautiful golden brown color.

Also running Peak Holds with a resistor box.

And Comp test came back 245 on all four on two different comp testers.
Leak down was "Perfect"
No knocks, no ticks. Valves have been adjusted twice.


Running AEM Hybrid Intake
LoveFab 4-2-1 Header (2.5" exit)
ITR 2.5" Cat
2.5" Exhaust
Stock JDM P13 ECU

PLEASE Help, I am on the edge with this car. I have spent SO many hours trying to figure this out. I have Brian at Hasport trying to help as well. Nothing seems to work. I would think if the Fuel pressure is to high, and it was running rich it would show on the plugs.

Last note: It has a SLIGHT backfire when letting off the throttle. And throttle tip in feels funny. But we have checked the voltages and resistance of the TPS 10 times thinking that was the problem, but no dice.

And I can take pictures to PROVE that the cam timing is DEAD nuts this is the first thing I looked at. Ignition timing is spot on too.

WHY the vibration!? The Balance shafts are spot on too, checked those every time i checked the Timing. BUTTT When we first did the Timing belt before installing the engine, the rear BS was out of phase causing massive vibrations, and was drove like that for about 10 miles. Could that have damaged something!?

BTW, we also have good oil pressure and Vtec is engaging at 5k, redline is around 7750.

Anyone!!! Please!



Modified by Jsarv at 7:15 PM 4/12/2008

 

Sorry for the (probably) dumb question, but how exactly are you guys setting the ignition timing...cam gears and flywheel right?

How does it run without the balance shafts connected (no belt)?

 

Setting cam timing by cam gears, crank gear and flywheel.... Just setting ignition timing by flywheel.

The engine is mostly stock so we do not have adjustable cam gears, plus the range of adjustment needed to reach 15d btdc is almost perfectly centered on the distributor.

Another thing is we have good vacuum with NO leaks.

We just ordered EGR block off plate, Hondata s300J to put in the JDM P30, and All the IM gaskets and TB gasket, we are going to remove it and clean it till the aluminum falls off of it, hoping the black tar slung up on the inside of the IM near the EGR port is the problem...

But the vibrations and loss of power between 3k and 5k.......!?!?!?!?

 

Hmmm....you have any idea what your A/F ratio looks like?

Sounds like this engine is almost perfect in every way except for the bogging

 

Wish... I know my Stg 2 WRX is .77 lambda at WOT/17.5lbs of boost. hahah

There is NO bogging, just a shudder!! like the dash vibrates and door panels vibrate and it feels like it looses steam while this is going on, and then boom into Vtec and it pulls "pretty" good.

And to add, just had an alignment, using Hasport stg 0 axles and mounts. .75" lowered over stock.

But if it were the axles/axle it would do it at certain MPH, not at 3-5k rpms.

Side note, we are running 185/60-14's and have traction pretty much all the way through first and after the spinning into second have traction from 6-7500 in 2nd and from then on.

I heard that H's were supposed to have HUGE traction problems!?

Forgot to add, when free reving the engine there is no vibration, no hesitation and no bogging. It snaps like a champ from idle.

Only has these problems while under load, and it is worse the more load we put on it, IE: the higher the gear the more shudder and less power...


Modified by Jsarv at 6:17 PM 4/12/2008

 

Man, I wish I knew what was causing your problem.....

My H23 just has bolt-ons and I can spin through 1st and 2nd if I want easily. No wheel hop just spin...depends on the road and my tire pressure though.

 

I <U>CAN</U> spin them through 4th if I TRY. Hell I can take off without any effort in 3rd and with a little effort I can take off in 4th. But it still has a problem.

Hopefully I will get some good road tuning in when the S300 and the LM-1 WideBand Comes in....

Maybe its just an IAT or ECT sensor telling the engine its cold or super hot.

 

So no one can explain why my JDM H22 is acting like this!?

I know its not in a Prelude, but its still an H.

Good comp. Good Leak down.

Good Spark.

Good Vac.

Good Oil Pressure.

Brown/gold Plugs.

No knocking.

HIGH fuel pressure.

All sensors check out.

Disconnected knock sensor and tested, could definitely tell it pulled timing until 5-5.5k rpms.

I seriously am to the point holding it wide open until it ASSPLOADS

Only noise that is out of the ordinary is the T-Belt is whining. Is this typical with the Manual T-Belt Tensioner conversion!? And BTW, I've done about 50 Honda Timing Belts, including about 15 Dohc Belts, only had a whine on a B16 for a day, untensioned it and retensioned it and it went away. I've done that to the H about 3 times (while checking and double and triple checking timing) and it does not go away.

Could I have a Balance shaft that is locking up?

I have literally went over every single thing I can think of with a fine tooth comb.

What would cause a whine in the T-Belt cover area?!

 

Btw, This is a video before the alternator was replaced (was only charging 11.9 volts while this test was conducted. The plugs were also gapped wrong at the time too........

Just seems slow to me.


http://youtube.com/watch?v=wz4DVR0rY2I


Jerod

 

did you ever figure it out..?