Okay so my 91 stock HF has about 183K on it...it's leaking and could use a new idle...recently barely passed emission(NOx?)..otherwise runs and drives....

BUT...now after I got it to pass emission it's just kind of sitting (had to wait for sticker after e-test) for I say 3 weeks? I've started it every once a while just to make sure it's still running, which I last did just this past week April 4-6....before e-test had oil changed, adjust idle etc. made sure engine was good to pass emission....

Well got the sticker now and decide I want to start driving it again...so I go to start it Today so that I can go and fill it up with gas... but when I started it it started up funny, idle was a bit weird/low than usual which didn't seem too bad because idle has been kinda weird from start...but I gave it a little gas and it kind of just shakes, the steering wheel shook, car shook a bit.... I then rev it a couple of times and it seem like engine/tranny was chocking??I know engine wasn't good to begin with from start (previous 2 owners ) but this time I was a bit worry it might be the end of it.
But I drove it anyways to filled it up and yeah same thing it seem like engine was chocking it shook while I gave it gas to go and when I put it into gears 1,2,3 it shook or chocked like it wouldn't get to speed which seems like somethings wrong with tranny as well....I know idle is bad but it was bad before and I was able to drive fine with it...but any ideas to what it could be??????Oh and yeah I have a loose drive side mount but sure this isn't the problem haven't had any before..tho sometimes it dies when idle is low and it shakes/loose mount...BUT this time it just DIES with no shakes, never no CEL from before or now just the no oil and battery came on any ideas????

If not I have other question I like to ask....TIA sorry if it doesn't make sense let me know and I'll try to explain more? if not I'll go on to my other new question on how to go on about with this REX....

 

Sounds like to me that you lost a cylinder. Check you plug wires, plug's and cap & rotor.

 

That's the thing engine was good before and after e-test and everything and I didn't even drive it/beat it to mess anything up just start it while it sit to make sure things were running?......didn't mess with plug's or anything at all while it sit...unless when I started it today one of the cylinder blew???when I started it today it sounds like it does every time I start it???...


I'm just think just to be thinking but I know weather has nothing to do with it but it's not that bad but I'm sure it has nothing to do with it...it's WI weather in April about mid/high 30s to 50s and suppose to be getting to the 60s this coming week....

 

I guess there's really no way here on HT on can tell me exactly whats wrong unless they are here to see/hear/drive the car themself but to tell me what they think is wrong. I appreciate that and I guess if I can I'll try to see if I can fix it to getting it running again. So if you have any other ideas let me know.

Otherwise.... my new question and I know it's covered already tho many people have gone many ways about on this......BUT my question is I want to have the REX swap to a D series (D16z6) With the REX already being non-vtec would it be easier to just find a non-vtec D series engine and drop it right in there without having to do much? I'm no expert/don't know a whole lot about engines just a bit above average/know the basics...I don't really have the time(*edit) I don't have the time to do a swap so I will have a shop do it but will need to buy what's needed/engine etc...so would finding a non-vtec D series be the easiest/fastest way to for me? other than getting lucky and finding another D16a6 engine which I wouldn't mind due to the gas price LMK thanks I don't really want to throw any money into the leaking/crappy stock HF motor let alone spend a whole lot $300+ to fixing to get it running "good" when I can buy a D series for that much and be good for a long while/years TIA let me know......

 

Any non vtec d-series will drop right in and bolt up. Youll run your original distributor, injectors, intake manifold, etc. Only the block and the head will be swapped in. I think you can also take the exhaust manifold from the new engine as well.

You will pretty much have to swap it to OBD1 if you want to run any of the new engines parts.

 

See that's what I've read on the search on HT that I can use the block and the head but isn't that a "minnie me" swap? Which is not what I'm looking for because my stock HF motor is crappy, tranny is crappy and I couldn't find a CRX SI tranny if I wanted one to do a "minnie me" swap (it would be hard/take a while to find one)

So I figure if I can't find a CRX si tranny and don't want to do the D16z6 v-tec complete swap which will cost a tad more for v-tec....I figure I'll do a non-vetc D16z6 instead for easy drop in/swap and have a running car in less time....

BUT my problem is my stock mounts are bad(driver side is loose) which I read I will use the driver side stock mount but now that mine is bad do I use the z6 mounts? Or gotta order new ones from Hasport or Inov.? and because I'm not looking for a "minie me" swap I'll have to get the hydro mounts right? in order to do a complete D16z6 swap

So now that I have this problem with loose mount and NOT looking for a "minnie me" swap what's there left for me? Like what axles to use etc? Or does this still stand for me:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bobjohnson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Any non vtec d-series will drop right in and bolt up. Youll run your original distributor, injectors, intake manifold, etc. </TD></TR></TABLE> minus the mounts I guess?


OH and also I'm just looking for the D16z6 engines but if people have more of the D16y8 non-vtec or v-tec would it be just about the same as the z6 straight drop in? or is the y8 different? Oh and is the y8 the same in obd/odb2? Or it it regardless of obd on y8 I still want to stay OBD1? which I know I want to go OBD1 because of e-test. THANKS