Nolenrob7

Hey guys this is the first time im posting in here so i hope i can get some good feedback. The issue im having i just noticed today after filling my tank. First let me specify what im working with. I have a stock 94 civic Lx. 1.5 engine. When i went to start my car after getting gas it started right up like isualy but before i even has a chance to put the car in gear it started to idle down, sputter and shut off on me. Now the car was already warm to opporating temp at this point and was running fine up until the gas station. So i went to start it again and it kinda just kept cranking and sounding like it wanted to start. I did finally get it started and drove to work with no issues. No loss in power no nothin. I got to work shut it down and went to start it again and same thing. Iv kinda ruled out a timing issue considering it runs strong when it does run so possibly an issue with a warm start or just a simple adjustment on the idle screw because i do have a consistantly low idle on a day to day basis. Thanks in advance

Jimi Hondrix

Could be a failing/weak fuel pump or main relay.
When (mileage) was the fuel filter last replaced?
Other than that check spark quality.

Nolenrob7

umm im not sure about the fuel filter and i didnt think about the relay. My buddy was sayin somethin about one sensor or another like mass air flow or crank position sensor but my only thing with that is like i litterally just put rear struts on and took it for a ride and it starts and drives fine. And oh i didnt mention earlier but theres absolutely no check engine light on and im sure that it does work becuase it came on at one point when my radiator fan took a crap

Jimi Hondrix

Your car's engine doesn't have a MAF sensor. There is an MAP sensor on the intake manifold just behind the throttle body.
Fuel delivery is easy to check ...just loosen banjo bolt on fuel rail or fuel filter, crank engine and watch for fuel. However, that doesn't clarify if fuel pressure is in spec. A weak/failing fuel pump can cause starting and running issues. Try replacing fuel filter first. Check spark quality also.

Nolenrob7

ok ill give it a look tomorrow and i was pokin around at some of those sensors and i noticed it looks like the one in back is atached weird like i didnt see screws but ill deal with that if i get to it. And i dont wanna sound like an idiot but where will i find the fuel filter on mine lol

DonnyEg6

Sounds like a timing issue to me. Could also be the fuel filter. I'd definitely look into both! Also have you checked your compression?

Nolenrob7

yea but what doesnt make sense to me is that it still runs strong with no loss of power at all

CX-Adam

Cars need spark, fuel, air, and explosions in a semi-sealed environment in the right sequence to run. If one of them are off/limited/out of spec. the car won't run correctly.

How many miles are on the car and when was the last general tune up?

I don't think it's anything that's already been suggested but won't discourage you from checking timing or compression. It's just good to know these things and you can rent the tools from your local autoparts store.

More than likely, it's something in your ignition system causing a weak spark that's very noticeable at low RPM and somewhat masked at higher RPM due to event frequency. I just went through diagnosing similar symptoms.

1. Pull and inspect the spark plugs. Look for color, gap, and cracks in the insulator. Re-gap or replace if necessary. The FAQs have the gap information. Use the plugs that are recommended in the owners manual and don't just buy the cheapest ones.
2. Test the plug wire resistance. Check the FAQs for resistance info (I think it's there) or google. I don't recall off hand what they should be.
3. Pull the distributor cap and inspect the pinnouts and rotor. If they're corroded you might be able to sand them and salvage the parts for a few more miles. Verify continuity between the coil connector and center of the cap. Replace if necessary. It's important to use OEM spec. ignition system components. My cheap aftermarket cap and rotor died after 20k miles.
4. Test the distributor Coil. (Eric the Car Guy has a good video) replace if necessary
5. Test the ICM. (Eric the Car Guy has a good video) replace if necessary You don't need to do this because a bad ICM = no start.
6. Clean ground G101 on the thermostat housing (just because. it's free)
7. Replace your fuel filter per previous recommendations (just because. it's easy and cheap)

If it's not the ignition system then start looking at the fuel system. You can try throwing parts at the problem, testing, or running solvents/detergents through it. There are some good videos online of how to test and clean fuel systems. I don't use a lot of fuel additives like solvents or detergents so I don't have anything to recommend. There are several tutorials on how to test the PGM-FI (Main) Relay.

Nolenrob7

thanks so much CX-adam im goin to throw a few of the cheaper parts ar it and see if it helps. As i previously mentioned theres no check engine light and today it seems to be running fine so other than cheap parts im gunna go with the if it aint broke dont fix it motto. And i especialy dont wanna go digging for a problem thats not there and wind up creating one. But in ur best opinion its probably fuel or spark

CX-Adam

You won't get one for for poor ignition or clogged fuel.

That's what mine would do and my problem was a corroded cap and rotor.

Not a bad motto IMO.

It'd be hard to create a problem testing the ignition components I listed. The steps I listed also step through the problem from one end to the other so you can be certain you've tested everything. It'll save you trouble in the long run.

Nolenrob7

alright yea ill check those things out. It just made and hour drive runnin strong starting right up everytime. This being why i personally ruled out a timing issue. And i asked someone else but never got a reply. Where exactly is my fuel filter located at

CX-Adam

Firewall by the battery. Just trace the hose on the passenger side of your fuel rail back to the firewall. The thing it connects to is your filter. You typically don't NEED to replace your fuel filter but... it's like 12 dollars and 20 minutes of work (if you're extra slow like I am).

Nolenrob7

alright sounds good. Stay tuned ill check some stuff out and get back on here with updates

Jimi Hondrix

I generally do not recommend to just start replacing parts without testing. However, if you don't know the age/mileage of an inexpensive part such as a fuel filter , even if it doesn't solve the current issue it's a maintenence item anyway.

DudeEX

Sounds like an electrical issue. While trouble shooting a stalling issue, I replaced my ignition harness. It immediately did like yours, rough idle, stutter, and die. In addition to the stalling otherwise. I had to put the original back on to get back to where I was with just a straight stalling issue. BTW, replacing my distributor with one from a wrecking yard, $38, fixed the stalling issue on my '00 Civic EX with 233k.

TomCat39

I would second the fuel filter, and it's interesting that it happened immediately after filling up your tank with fuel.

I would be questioning sediment from the gas station, even though they are supposed to also have filters, but who is to say their filters don't have a bypass valve if they become clogged.

As such, if fuel filter doesn't help, you could also do a quality fuel injection cleaner. That is another cheap thing to try.

My lopey rough idle is much better now that I ran some Wynn's Power Charge through the system. The other fuel injection cleaner I like but can't get up here in Canada is Berryman's B-12 Chemtool. It makes a fine fuel injection cleaner.

I'm assuming you've gone through most all the test everyone else has covered and not finding anything definitive. So, doing the filter and running a quality cleaner will only help things and should be done anyway and... it's cheap.

Best of luck.

Nolenrob7

thanks man i havent had the chance to do anything to it yet but have not had a single issue with it since so like i said earlier if it aint broke dont fix it

TomCat39

Fuel filter and fuel injection cleaner ain't a fix it solution, it's a maintain it solution.

By your logic, you don't need to change the oil until the engine seizes (if it aint broke....).

Nolenrob7

well yea u kno what i mean lol and yea im going to get an injector cleaner and new filter this weekend