D16z6 TURBO! or H22
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Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 115
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From: Federal Way, WA, United States
Alright guys, so im 16 and i have a love for the hondas. my first car i decided to get a 94 DX coupe. Its got a d16z6, basic bolt ons, and a chipped ECU. Had only 3000 to spend so it seemed like a good deal. A buddy of mine has a H22A4 that he would sell to me for 1000. Its got the tranny and axles. Not sure on what else tho. He said it was a complete swap but forgive me im a noob. I'm looking to spend 2000 dollars on either the swap or turbo because my part time job can only support that haha. So my question is, should i spend all my money on going turbo. or invest in the h22. Ive read alot about the swaps and pros and cons. but the opinions on HT are always going in different directions. i'd appreciate everyones opinions and past experiences. thanks
heres the car right now
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Modified by BadKid at 10:20 PM 4/10/2008
heres the car right now
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Modified by BadKid at 10:20 PM 4/10/2008
i had a a d16Z6 in my civic that was turbo, and i they guy before me had and he had only put the turbo on about 3 mounths earlier and when i got it 3 mounths later, the motor blew. So unless you are just doing for some fun i would keep the d16.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by theERAisBack »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i had a a d16Z6 in my civic that was turbo, and i they guy before me had and he had only put the turbo on about 3 mounths earlier and when i got it 3 mounths later, the motor blew. So unless you are just doing for some fun i would keep the d16.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I can 100% bet you, that **** wasn't tuned!
Remember a turbo'd engine is as reliable as your tune. The better the tune the more reliable. Don't be like the dumbasses around my area here that buy a turbo at ebay or anywhere else. Slap it on and drive that **** all balistic without a tune. Cuz if you do then guess what.......BOOOOOMM.
I can 100% bet you, that **** wasn't tuned!
Remember a turbo'd engine is as reliable as your tune. The better the tune the more reliable. Don't be like the dumbasses around my area here that buy a turbo at ebay or anywhere else. Slap it on and drive that **** all balistic without a tune. Cuz if you do then guess what.......BOOOOOMM.
Does it really have to be an H22? I wouldnt go with a turbo because its not reliable unless you have it tuned right. There are plenty of swaps that you could do with 2k. I bought a JDM B16a longblock for 1k from hmotorsonline.com and it didnt take much more money to get all the things that I needed to get a full swap. H series motors are a bit harder to put in your civic. I even see some ppl selling their B18c1 swaps for around 2k.
Yeah like ^^ said. Why don't you just save a little more and get a gsr engine. I on the other hand prefered to turbo my D15B. And believe me you'll smoke B18c1's. Now you can also buy a B18C1 and turbo that.
Modified by mortificationrock at 8:05 AM 4/11/2008
Modified by mortificationrock at 8:05 AM 4/11/2008
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mortificationrock »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Cuz if you do then guess what.......BOOOOOMM.
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No dout! boom real fast.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RS-2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">d16z6 t, an h22a4 is the ATTS model stay away!
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there are many A4's that are not atts.
I have an A4 in my ek civic. My good friend has a Y8 on boost. at first he was on a check valve system with obd2 seeing about 7-8 lbs. Set him up obd1 with basic boost tables. he was hitting 16lbs for about one month then his head gasket blew. replcaed it and studs, spent a few hours with me tuning and now hes running 16-18 lbs and staying in fair afr and egts. Its been about 7 months no issues, daily 16lbs. The only way my H will beat his boost is on a Hot 100 shot n2o.
have you thought about going F series and boost? cheap and forged internals ftw.
Cuz if you do then guess what.......BOOOOOMM.
</TD></TR></TABLE>No dout! boom real fast.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RS-2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">d16z6 t, an h22a4 is the ATTS model stay away!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
there are many A4's that are not atts.
I have an A4 in my ek civic. My good friend has a Y8 on boost. at first he was on a check valve system with obd2 seeing about 7-8 lbs. Set him up obd1 with basic boost tables. he was hitting 16lbs for about one month then his head gasket blew. replcaed it and studs, spent a few hours with me tuning and now hes running 16-18 lbs and staying in fair afr and egts. Its been about 7 months no issues, daily 16lbs. The only way my H will beat his boost is on a Hot 100 shot n2o.
have you thought about going F series and boost? cheap and forged internals ftw.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by THC07 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you go F or H you will need to raise that front end up a bit, its to low. axles and oil pan hazard.</TD></TR></TABLE>
it's very rare when i hear someone doing the F swap. i heard its difficult, what are the cons for F swaps?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RS-2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">d16z6 t, an h22a4 is the ATTS model stay away!
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and what is atts??? is it similar to abs or something? thanks
it's very rare when i hear someone doing the F swap. i heard its difficult, what are the cons for F swaps?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RS-2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">d16z6 t, an h22a4 is the ATTS model stay away!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
and what is atts??? is it similar to abs or something? thanks
Honestly, you're only 16 and working...which is a great thing BTW. Save the money for college or something worth while. I just picked up an '95 black EJ exactly like that and I love the "stealthiness" it provides. Stock everything, so no unwanted attentionfrom cops, ricers, etc.
It's your choice, but I wish I would have learned this lesson earlier in life.
Modified by blk92_d16 at 1:34 PM 4/11/2008
It's your choice, but I wish I would have learned this lesson earlier in life.
Modified by blk92_d16 at 1:34 PM 4/11/2008
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mizzoEG »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
it's very rare when i hear someone doing the F swap. i heard its difficult, what are the cons for F swaps?
and what is atts??? is it similar to abs or something? thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>
ATTS automatic tourqe transfer system i think. IN the prelude SH (super handling)
transfers tourqe in turns.
I dont think there really is any cons to an F series. its cheap, its smaller then other 2.2 liters, it is 2.2 liters
it has forged internals, abundance of em. its basicaly the exact same to swap an H or an F. same parts are needed. I would think the only con is the install. F series are bullet proof IMO.
it's very rare when i hear someone doing the F swap. i heard its difficult, what are the cons for F swaps?
and what is atts??? is it similar to abs or something? thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>
ATTS automatic tourqe transfer system i think. IN the prelude SH (super handling)
transfers tourqe in turns.
I dont think there really is any cons to an F series. its cheap, its smaller then other 2.2 liters, it is 2.2 liters
it has forged internals, abundance of em. its basicaly the exact same to swap an H or an F. same parts are needed. I would think the only con is the install. F series are bullet proof IMO.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by illmatic118 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just get a k20 and freak ninjas like MJ</TD></TR></TABLE>
Truth spoken!
Truth spoken!
If your only looking to spend around $2000 then i think the H is a little out of your price range, unless you can do everything yourself and have some great hook ups on parts plus you'll lose your ps and ac unless you have some custom brackets and lines made,, boosting the d would be your best and cheapest route just make sure you GET IT TUNED and it will still be reliable as long as you don't beat on it constantly or run high amounts of boost all the time.
d16z6 are good motors, you can get laot of power out of them. rare motor non the less. b18c1/gsr are a great motor to build NA or boosted, the sohc turbo applications are becoming more and more typical and desired. my d16z6 that was a great motor in my 92 si, but wanted more. so i sold it for 250$ and bought my gsr for 570$ for the whole swap.
look around you can find a good motor and save ur money and build later.
http://www.yoparts.com has great prices for members.
im ny oppinion i would go with a GSR
it takes a almost perfect tune on a d16z6 and around thousands of $ to get 400-500 hp
youll spend alot on a b18c1 GSR also but a lot more sturdy motor IMO and is more common to find parts for.
either way you go youll have fun but jsut beware of what your getting yourself into
MODing is an addiction,
and if you try and do to much at one time it is overwealming and i see alot of peopel selling their projects becuase of that very situation.
good luck and god bless.
look around you can find a good motor and save ur money and build later.
http://www.yoparts.com has great prices for members.
im ny oppinion i would go with a GSR
it takes a almost perfect tune on a d16z6 and around thousands of $ to get 400-500 hp
youll spend alot on a b18c1 GSR also but a lot more sturdy motor IMO and is more common to find parts for.
either way you go youll have fun but jsut beware of what your getting yourself into
MODing is an addiction,
and if you try and do to much at one time it is overwealming and i see alot of peopel selling their projects becuase of that very situation.
good luck and god bless.
Yup 8 grand later you'll have alot of WHP and no traction
Turbo that D and you'll be happy, just get the good tune like someone said earlier...
Turbo that D and you'll be happy, just get the good tune like someone said earlier...
ls as in non vtec? high compression correct? j/w becuase i had a freind who boosted an ls teg and blew the hell out of the block becuase it wastoo high of compression.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hatchtegman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ls as in non vtec? high compression correct? j/w becuase i had a freind who boosted an ls teg and blew the hell out of the block becuase it wastoo high of compression.
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lol........an "ls" does not have even moderately high compression, something like 9:1 and they loooooove boost. your friend probably blew the engine due to too much boost or lack of tuning or lack of oil but sure as hell wasnt too high of compression.
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lol........an "ls" does not have even moderately high compression, something like 9:1 and they loooooove boost. your friend probably blew the engine due to too much boost or lack of tuning or lack of oil but sure as hell wasnt too high of compression.
My accord euro r has a H22a4 motor with 220 hp,they didnt only come in preludes..
OP: Go with a gsr or ls motor, theyre both are pretty strong but if you are serious about boost i would go with the ls,they love turbo just with stock block
OP: Go with a gsr or ls motor, theyre both are pretty strong but if you are serious about boost i would go with the ls,they love turbo just with stock block
D16z6 turbo ftw. Get a good tune and on just 8psi, you'll be pulling on H22's and still get great gas mileage. If you are cheap only buy the following no name brand crap offa ebay, FMIC, PIPING, BOV, Manifold (if casted). The actual turbo, get a well known garrett or Mitsu.
My ***** sexy as hell and I spent less than $1400.
My ***** sexy as hell and I spent less than $1400.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM Lyfestyle »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My accord euro r has a H22a4 motor with 220 hp,they didnt only come in preludes..
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wat?? the accord euro r motor is an h22a (JDM), or the h22a7 (edm) the a4 is a usdm motor
op with 2 grand to spend id just boost your d if you plan on leaving it that way, or swap to a gsr, but if you can afford to go slightly over buy the motor your buddy is selling if it is in good working condition NOT THE TRANS then search for a jdm/edm h22a trans w/lsd search the faq to find everything else you need to complete the swap, the h2b is iffy in my book the engine sits real odd to get the trans to sit correct...however ive never seen one in person but the h2b would be way out of your price range
h22 + good trans & lsd =
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wat?? the accord euro r motor is an h22a (JDM), or the h22a7 (edm) the a4 is a usdm motor
op with 2 grand to spend id just boost your d if you plan on leaving it that way, or swap to a gsr, but if you can afford to go slightly over buy the motor your buddy is selling if it is in good working condition NOT THE TRANS then search for a jdm/edm h22a trans w/lsd search the faq to find everything else you need to complete the swap, the h2b is iffy in my book the engine sits real odd to get the trans to sit correct...however ive never seen one in person but the h2b would be way out of your price range
h22 + good trans & lsd =



stay away! 
