Im a semi novice when it comes to correct brake setup. I put this setup together a few years ago and have been running it on my civic. Im running in SM.

I was wondering mainly what perportioning valve, booster and mastercyl I should run.

Could anyone offer me any advice on my setup?

Street mod 89 si hatch

stoppers:

99 si front rotors, calipers on ex knuckles
99 si calipers, rotors on 1991 crx si rear trailing arms.
91 si perportioning valve
oem pads (99 si donor only had 20k on it)
valvoline dot 4 fluid
nuspeed stainless lines
91 crx si master cyllinder (I think i need a new one any advice on which one. I seem to drift when stopped at lights.)
Stock booster

susp:
suspension tech. 22mm rear swaybar
Si front sway bar
front & rear strut bar's
front lower tie bar
rear lower tie bar
ground control coilovers 400lb front 500 rear
koni yellow OTC's shocks
Ground control top hats front and rear
ex knuckles
energy suspension bushing kit
Mugen rear trailing arm bushings

Specs:

Front Camber 3 deg
Front toe 1/4 out total
Rear Camber 2.9 deg
Rear Toe 1/16 in - 18 out total


TIA

 

I believe you can fit the ITR master and booster in there.

Get some decent pads other than stockers, you'll be amazed at how much better the car stops. Get decent fluid if you change the pads.

Other than that it looks like a fun car.

 

91 integra booster/master and prop valve bolts up and the brakelines are in the correct locations. ITR is different, I know from experience


+1 for the pads and fluid.... best 2 mods you can do besides tire.


I thhought an SI shouod have the bigger master and 4040 prop valve already.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JW racing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I thhought an SI shouod have the bigger master and 4040 prop valve already.</TD></TR></TABLE>

nope

Basic setup - 2 major options:
1. Fastbrakes Wilwood kit - 11" rotors, Wilwood calipers - different, my choice
2. 90-91 Civic EX knuckles with 11" ITR or Spoon ITR calipers, Prelude rotors driller to 4 lug (can be bought easily) - more OEM, possibly cheaper

Booster/MC:
1. Easiest: 90-91 Civic EX booster and MC, everything lines right up, no need to do any modifying
2. 4G Prelude, almost fits, requires slight convincing
3. ITR, needs lines redone really at MC, or else you're really pushing your luck (you can buy a kit for like $35 to do this though)

Prop valve
1. Wilwood prop valve, my choice ($75, but have to run individual brake lines)
2. 4040 DA prop valve, super easiest

With this knowledge and a little searching (now that you know what your options are), you'll be set. Good luck!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GI8U2racing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

nope

Basic setup - 2 major options:
1. Fastbrakes Wilwood kit - 11" rotors, Wilwood calipers - different, my choice
2. 90-91 Civic EX knuckles with 11" ITR or Spoon ITR calipers, Prelude rotors driller to 4 lug (can be bought easily) - more OEM, possibly cheaper

Booster/MC:
1. Easiest: 90-91 Civic EX booster and MC, everything lines right up, no need to do any modifying
2. 4G Prelude, almost fits, requires slight convincing
3. ITR, needs lines redone really at MC, or else you're really pushing your luck (you can buy a kit for like $35 to do this though)

Prop valve
1. Wilwood prop valve, my choice ($75, but have to run individual brake lines)
2. 4040 DA prop valve, super easiest

With this knowledge and a little searching (now that you know what your options are), you'll be set. Good luck!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ok how do I tell what prop valve I may already have the DA valve. I know that i did sway it out for the crx si(with rear disk) but im thinking I may have changed to a DA. (ive had this car for 8 years.)

Is the crx si with rear disk 40/40?
also any advice on fluid/ pads?..... HP+ front and rear and ate super blue?

 

since its an autocross/street car, i would have left the stock ef brakes with upgraded pads. as far as masters, ex or old prelude.
as for set-up, ditch the si front bar for an hf bar. and ditch the stb's as they dont do anyting.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spun Vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Ok how do I tell what prop valve I may already have the DA valve. I know that i did sway it out for the crx si(with rear disk) but im thinking I may have changed to a DA. (ive had this car for 8 years.)

Is the crx si with rear disk 40/40?
also any advice on fluid/ pads?..... HP+ front and rear and ate super blue?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I would just change to the DA MC/booster and HP+ pads in the front. I have the same setup as you with the da stuff and hp+fr/hps rear and I love it but the hpsare alittle too much for the rear at times. Ive been using the valvoline synpower stuff too and haven't had any problems for autox and the few trackdays ive done.

 

I am going to go with the 11.1" big brake upgrade from brakeexpert with prelude rotors and CL calipers for the front, and the stock drums are staying in the back.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lo-Buck EF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and ditch the stb's as they dont do anyting.</TD></TR></TABLE>

"http://www.redshiftmotorsports.com/ChrisTech.htm" ........

Tie Bars - tie bars are good to firm up the chassis. I've had people try to argue that the front upper tie bar doesn't do much, and that's crap. Their argument is that the cornering forces don't act on the shock towers in such a way that you need the strengthening that the front upper tie bar gives, but these same people run 8-point roll cages.... so it's no wonder. An upper tie bar makes more of a difference on a strut suspension like the new Civic, but it still makes a positive difference on the 88-00 Civic. I ran the upper front bar only on both my cars, but that's because I never got around to putting the others on. I'd recommend them all.


I do have the 40/40 prop valve.

Looks like I will give the hp+'s a shot in the front and the hps's for the rear. Ill keep an eye out for the hf sway. And look for a ex, da, older lude mastercyl

 

I would just do the HP+ in the front first. See how you like the balance then go from there. I ran HP+ in the back with Blues up front at Roebling last fall and it wasn't bad. I really didn't use the brakes all that much so I don't know how effective the combo was. Having the rear lock up on the street is really bad.

 

i know chris for a while and have argued this point with him before. we have our differances on this particular topic
as for your brake set-up, i like the 11"/drum. its overkill for autocross but if u takwe the car to the track it wil have plenty of brake. hp+ will also be plenty of pad for autocross. hell, stock brakes with hp+ would have been fine for autocross....


Modified by Lo-Buck EF at 8:44 PM 4/9/2008

 

Believe it or not the IT and Production boys actually make due with the stock SI brakes. They are probably faster than many of the HC cars (prod cars).

 

i believe it

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turboteener &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Believe it or not the IT and Production boys actually make due with the stock SI brakes. They are probably faster than many of the HC cars (prod cars).</TD></TR></TABLE>

they don't have the extra 15-20 mph at the end of a straight that a swap'd engine car has either

 

IT cars probably don't but the prod cars do. Especially the Eprod cars. EPROD cars are allow a full out slick. More bite means harder life for the pads and rotors. Production cars should be faster than a HC car even an H1 car.

 

Ok so I do need a new master cyl.

Ill be getting the 1990-1991 civic ex 15/16 master. I found some on ebay for 68$ shipped. where can I get the booster?



would I need all of #1 in this pic ($63.77) or number 4 ($286.74)


Modified by spun Vtec at 6:02 PM 4/22/2008

 

bump

 

You'll just need a seal kit. Just check the bore of the master and look at the piston, but I'm sure all you'll need is the seals and springs. At least I think that's what you're asking right?
You can get a booster from a junk yard or from ebay. I got my booster from a DA integra with the 15/16 master from the same car. I love it, makes a good bit of difference in my opinion.

 

got on my CRX a 90-91 Prelude 15/16 big reservoir bolt on CRX booster!

steinless braided hose..work good!

 

Im done with the upgrade. I got a new 90-91ex 15/16 MC ($58 at advanced) and new 90-91 ex 9" booster($80 at autozone). Breaks feel great! now to throw on some front hp+'s.

Note to anyone getting a booster, I ordered an 90-91 ex booster from advanced. The booster they gave me was not an ex. It was 8". I had then check when i brought it back and they had the ex and si as the same part number. I then called NAPA and they told me that the ex 9" booster would be 190$. I about pood. .. ... Then i called advanced and they had the si listed as a different part number as the ex. I ordered it and it was indeed the ex.