just finishing my first top mount and i took it out of the jig befor it completly cooled and the head flange on the #4 piston end bent up about 4mm. how can i bed it back? do i heat up that runner, and snug itup in the jig?
ill try to get a pic up soon

 

get a machine shop to run the mill over the top..

takes no time.

 

yea but then the flange would have no thickness like i said, its about 4mm

 

does it flatten when you tighten it?
cut slats in the head flange just the thickness of the bandsaw blade, and then when you bolt it up, it SHOULD have enough give to go on flat.
but this MIGHT let it spring out of shape even more....

or you could:

make a plate, of steel, and thick, with the bolt spacing, and make it flat.
bolt the thing to it tight so it is flat.
put it in the oven for a while, or heat it with a torch so it relaxes a bit.
Ive done this one before with aluminum intakes, and it worked. i welded on a head flange to runners, and the flange warped alot. the heat and plate method worked well. i actually heated it first, then bolted it to the plate. i was afraid of cracking. when it was all cool, i was able to belt sand any amount it sprung back.

 

yea ill try heating the runner up a bit then sinch it tight into the jig..
any other ideas?

 

 

just cut it with the band saw between the runners and you should be able to bolt it up like that....i have done one like this and i had no problems

 

find out where your bend starts. loosely bolt the manifold to a head. place an 1/8th filler rod under the bend point and bolt down the manifold the head. that should bend it back enough.

otherwise cut that runner, bend it back, bolt it down and fill some gap.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by manifoldmiketyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">find out where your bend starts. loosely bolt the manifold to a head. place an 1/8th filler rod under the bend point and bolt down the manifold the head. that should bend it back enough.

otherwise cut that runner, bend it back, bolt it down and fill some gap.</TD></TR></TABLE>

thats not a bad idea bolting it down and try to over bend it w/ a piece of 1/8" filler ill try that, i hape it doesnt come to cutting the runner, and im a liottle worried about cutting the flange between the runners, cause im not sure if they are under tension or not and may warp some more, maybe if i bolt it down to the head then cut it?

 

somebody likes coors light... just tighten it down on the head when you install it and heat cycle the manifold (bring it to normal operating temperature) and tighten the head studs while it is still hot. let it cool completely for a day and heat cycle again and re-tighten. i've done this with 1/2" flanges that were warped pretty bad and when i took it off at the end of the summer it was glass flat.

 

I'd cut it off @ the head flange and reweld it. Trying to force it down is just going to create a stress spot and more then likely a crack.

 

thanks guys, at least one of these methods are bound to work

 

If it were me I would definately not cut it a reweld. eventually where you welded it it will crack and break off. Heat it up then put it in the jig. bend it the best you can to flat , then bolt it on when its cooled.

 

as long as you havn't run the manifold on the car yet, re-welding should be fine. just make sure to clean off anything left from cutting (burr or cut off wheel).

i've tried all of these methods over the years and there really isn't one good way. you can attribute cracking to doing this, however it could have been somthing different. could be anything.

last one i did was the rod method and i guess the jury is still out (havn't heard from customer).

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jjipson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If it were me I would definately not cut it a reweld. eventually where you welded it it will crack and break off. Heat it up then put it in the jig. bend it the best you can to flat , then bolt it on when its cooled.</TD></TR></TABLE>


yea id really like to not cut it and re-weld it, ill try the other methods first like heating it up but if it comes down to it ill cut and re-weld
nice ot see another guy from Maine, im from Bath

 

your warpage isnt bad at all.....

i would not do tons of things to it, as thats how issues make themselves worse.

pick one solution, and let it be.

1.-cut slats between runners, and bolt it up, and leve it alone.
2.-what mike tyson said, 1/8in rod, under where bend starts, tighten it up to bend it back.
3.just heat the flange up with a flame, HOT, and bolt it up, let it cool.


either one of these 3 should work.
Id say do #2 first.

remember, dont hit it on a belt sander till you know your not gonna try and straighten it out more, because once you plane it when its not flat, cutting slats or bending will make it uneven again.

 

all good ideas, thanks guys

 

You made the manifold? Is it for you also? If so I would just bolt it on and see what happens. If it was a log I would say you where screwed without cutting and re welded or surfacing the flange. But since it's a top mount I bet it will pull right down.

I made my personal manifold on my car using the worst methods I could come up with on purpose. lol I didn't bevel anything, single passed it, flange is 3/8" and warped. I did it that way so I was sure I would not sell it and to see what would cause the most problems. The flange cranked right down (and my manifold flange only as 5 bolts total) and nothing has cracked. I have had that sucker glowing red in daylight, and I have
banged on it hard with the 2-step. Alls good....


One vote for slapping it on.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PSI2HI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'd cut it off @ the head flange and reweld it. Trying to force it down is just going to create a stress spot and more then likely a crack.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Same vote here. Even 1/2" flanges aren't that expensive, and IMO this would be the most definate of all the fixes. You won't have any stress placed on any welds, which could otherwise crack over time as they flex. You could do what weir suggested if its your personal manifold, at risk of melting engine bay parts & ruining a few headstuds - only as long as you later send it in to be stress relieved. They control the process of heating/cooling it, among other things, which removes the stress on any welds.

 

cutting it off will be a BIG PITA....

the pipes probably expanded/shrank from the heat from welding, if you cut it, they wont line up like they used to....