Car is a 2000 Accord Coupe 5-speed.

Problem: When shifting, particularly into first gear from a stop, the car is difficult to get into gear. The shifter feels as if the transmission has not sync'd up yet. The tranny never grinds.

Background: The car had and Action 2MD 6-puck clutch installed for roughly a year. About six months through the life of that clutch, I began having this problem. I resurfaced the flywheel and replaced this clutch with a new OEM clutch about nine months ago, and the problem went away. Over the past 4-5 months, the problem as returned. A few months ago I replaced the slave, then the master cyls with units purchased from salvage yards, which yeilded the same results as the original master/slave. I've bled the system many many times, and it helps for a few minutes of driving, then it becomes more and more difficult to shift the further I drive. By the end of the day, after ~50 miles, it is almost impossible to shift into first from a stop.

My Observations: I believe the issue is that the release system is not fully disengaging the clutch. What leads me to think this is when the car is left in gear at a stop with the clutch fully pushed in, the car wants to creep forward ever so slowly. When the brake and clutch is depressed with the car in gear, the car bogs slightly as if the A/C is on. IMO, this would make it difficult for the syncros to slow or speed up the trans when shifting if the clutch is always slightly engaged.

I have already adjusted the nut on the MC to give the pedal the longest range of motion, and have adjusted the bump stops on the pedal bracket to allow the pedal even more movement. This seems to band-aid the issure for a day or two at most, but the problem returns thereafter.

I would dare to speculate that the Action clutch, having almost 3 or 4 times the stock pedal pressure could have worn out the seals in the master or slave, but there are no leaks whatsoever, and the fluid level in the reservoir never goes down, so I can't imagine a loss of fluid. I'm suspicious of the hydraulic line at this point. Could the rubber section be stretched from the high pressure of the Action clutch? When I watch the slave as someone presses the clutch pedal, it does not appear to move as much as it should (enough to completely disengage the clutch), though I never paid much attention to it when it was working properly.

Any educated guesses before I spend 75+ on a brand new master, 45+ on a new slave, or 100+ on a new line? I hate throwing parts at a problem.

 

Bump for some answers!

 

Maybe some Mental Midget put 80w90 gear oil in the trans?
You say the car wants to creep with the clutch in, and a hard shift into first at a dead stop.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondadude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You say the car wants to creep with the clutch in, and a hard shift into first at a dead stop.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yep, wants to creep with the clutch in when in gear. I can slip the shifter to neutral and the creep goes away and idle returns to normal. If the car is in neutral and the clutch is depressed, I can try easing the shifter into first, but the car begins to creep doing that.

Of course I can force it in without grinding, but it's a fight I don't like to face. Usually shifting into second, then quickly to first is my only option.


Cliffs so far...

Clutch in + car in gear = feels like clutch isn't disengaged, makes shifting difficult.



Modified by AFAccord at 9:31 AM 4/3/2008

 

Have you adjusted the pushrod on the clutch petal assembly itself or just the nut to change the play of the petal? If just the nut you really didn't accomplish anything.

It sounds to me like you need to adjust the pushrod to make the clutch engage sooner, to do this you need to loosen the lock nuts on the pushrod, then turn the rod itself to adjust the engagement position. I *believe* it is counter clockwise to raise the engagement point but you'll want to verify vs. a Helms manual to be sure (or just trial/error).

I had to do this with my Action 2MD because it would engage with the petal about 1/2 inch off the floor when I first installed it. It was funny watching people try to drive it like that.

This process is a pain in the *** because it's awkward as hell and it's a bitch to turn the little rod with your fingers, but I bet this would resolve your problem.

-B

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by notoriousB &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Have you adjusted the pushrod on the clutch petal assembly itself or just the nut to change the play of the petal? If just the nut you really didn't accomplish anything.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yep, I turned the pushrod until the end-piece was barely on the threads, then tightened the the lock-nut into place. The pedal is at the very end of the push rod, and the brackets are adjusted so it can swing as far up as possible. I also adjusted the bracket and bump stop so the pedal can go down as far as possible.

I'm at wit's end over this.

 

crap.

there was a Tech Bulletin on the 98 clutch system, where the lining on the inside of the master cylinder would wear out and end up in the hard line. The suggestion on the bulletin was to replace the master, slave, and hard line all at the same time. I don't recall what year your accord is.

I did that swap when my slave cylinder went a year ago. The hardline sucks *** to remove/install. I doubt this is the problem you're having anyway but it's worth a mention.

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1498167

Went through that problem with my last Accord. This Accord is a 2000 though, with the newer metal MC and slave. I'm just trying to avoid having to replace the whole line. I know it's gonna be a pain in the ***, not to mention the cost...