Well, this is probably the wrong place for this, but I started this discussion here so I will finish it here.

I finally finished my molded sub enclosures for my coup. These are the final products and they came out really good. I also now have a mold so I might make a few and sell them on ebay.

Here are some pics.

 

DAMN! that ****'s hot son! if I had a coupe I'd be jumpin on ebay! Good job.

 

Question, and forgive me because I'm no audiophile: don't subs need ports to really sound good? Since basically all it's doing is moving air, I don't understand how non-ported woofers would ever sound anything other than muffled. Care to elaborate?

(P.S. I know the stocker isn't the greatest either)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by L-Dawg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Question, and forgive me because I'm no audiophile: don't subs need ports to really sound good? Since basically all it's doing is moving air, I don't understand how non-ported woofers would ever sound anything other than muffled. Care to elaborate?

(P.S. I know the stocker isn't the greatest either)</TD></TR></TABLE>

PORTED = sound QUANTITY. The sub will sound louder....but it requires more air space. You can't simply port a sealed box without the proper air space cause it will just sound like crap.

SEALED = sound QUALITY. The bass sounds cleaner and it requires less air space, but it will not be as loud as a ported box.

 

Dam, those are so nice! U should make some for the sedan and I will be all over those

 

dang...those look really good

let us know if you decide to make more

 

how much would you be selling them for if you decided to make some extra enclosures?

looks like you did a good job

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by L-Dawg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Question, and forgive me because I'm no audiophile: don't subs need ports to really sound good? Since basically all it's doing is moving air, I don't understand how non-ported woofers would ever sound anything other than muffled. Care to elaborate?

(P.S. I know the stocker isn't the greatest either)</TD></TR></TABLE>

Depends on the size of the enclosure. These are only a little over 1 cubic, about the minimum for a 12" sub. Enclosures that are bigger then 3 cubic feet (like a large box exclosure), would sound better if ported. At least that is my understanding from the guys I worked with. It's all about air flow and can get a little complicated.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by L-Dawg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Question, and forgive me because I'm no audiophile: don't subs need ports to really sound good? Since basically all it's doing is moving air, I don't understand how non-ported woofers would ever sound anything other than muffled. Care to elaborate?

(P.S. I know the stocker isn't the greatest either)</TD></TR></TABLE>

To answer your question, the subwoofer cone displaces air by moving in a positive and negative displacement about the speakers equilibrium point. This creates sound waves by moving air molecules which is processed and interpreted by your ear drums. The airspace that is located inside of the subwoofer enclosure acts as a air suspension by trapping a pocket of air within it. This helps the speaker move it's cone in a controlled manner, and depending on the airspace determines the suspensions properties and cone movement.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jumboshrimp23 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Dam, those are so nice! U should make some for the sedan and I will be all over those </TD></TR></TABLE>

My neighbor has a 2007 sedan and is asking me to make a set for him. We will see. If I make him a set, I will buy a couple trunk liners and create molds for the sedan as well.

 

It they were tens, I'd be all over that. I like the punch of smaller subs more. Also, I would need them set back toward the quarters more. I store my detail cleaner, tire shine, oil, rags, mag lite and tools in the spare tire well, so I got in there quite a lot.

*edit* They look really really good man.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2008fijibluesi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It they were tens, I'd be all over that. I like the punch of smaller subs more. Also, I would need them set back toward the quarters more. I store my detail cleaner, tire shine, oil, rags, mag lite and tools in the spare tire well, so I got in there quite a lot.

*edit* They look really really good man. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I can make the enclosures to house any size subwoofer. I am currently working on an enclosure for a 300z twin turbo with a 10" JL Audio sub. That enclosure is still in process, but here is a picture. Little hard to tell the size because the center rig has not been cut out yet.



This will fit in back left corner of the hatch area. On the right side we are going to fabricate a molded shelf unit where we will install the sub amp.

 

alright, stupid question, but do you secure them some way, if not do they not slide all over the place?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by organiz3d_chaos &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">alright, stupid question, but do you secure them some way, if not do they not slide all over the place?</TD></TR></TABLE>

They can be secured by screwing them in on the bottom or by Velcro. I use Velcro Extreme and they hold really well. Even after being pretty aggressive on the corners, they are still holding tight. I like the idea of Velcro because then I can easily remove them when tracking the car or running an autocross (neither I have done yet, but you never know).

 

DOPE! looks awesome, really nice work............do you actually calculate the real volume, or do you do a guesstimate?

only suggestion i'd make it to make them a little more rear facing; possibly facing the opposing corner for obvious impact reasons.

 

Alright, I hadn't thought of Velcro. Thats what I will probably do when I make mine. Thanks.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by builthatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">DOPE! looks awesome, really nice work............do you actually calculate the real volume, or do you do a guesstimate?

only suggestion I'd make it to make them a little more rear facing; possibly facing the opposing corner for obvious impact reasons.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I actually measure to get the volume. I took a big bag of foam BB's and built a 1 cubic foot square box. One box of BB's equals 1 cubic foot of volume. I then packaged the BB's into bags, each holding 1 cubic foot of BB's.

To measure the volume of the enclosure, I pour the BB's into the enclosure. If the enclosure holds 1 and a quarter bags of BB's, then the volume is 1.25 cubic feet.

To measure the volume using Calculus would have been a nightmare given the odd shape. Besides, I needed a rough idea of the volume. As long as the volume is between 1 and 3 cubic foot, your good.


When you build these you can face the sub's however you want. It is hard to tell in this picture, but these are elevated (facing up) 15 degrees and facing inward 20 degrees. I am still experimenting with the direction.

 

is there anyway to make them so that they don't protrude out so much?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 06siracer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is there anyway to make them so that they don't protrude out so much?</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you get a different type of subwoofer......one that's a little less powerful and requires less air space....maybe a smaller mounting depth as well.....then it might be a little more shallow.

 

clean

 

looks really good, nice work