'88 CRX DX w/ MPFI conversion done by previous owner.

Have driven the car about 30k miles now since I bought it, replaced dist. cap and rotor about 10k miles ago, plugs less than 5k ago. Never any problems.

Was cruising, had been driving probably 80 miles, got her up to 100mph for a little bit then eased it back down and had been cruising around 65mph for a good 8 miles or so, when it just felt like I was on the brakes. I tried giving her some gas, no responsed. I downshifted to try and get more power, but the car kept slowing down. I pulled over on the side of the highway, and as soon as I clutched and the RPM's dropped, she died. Towed her home. I immediately thought "distributor." Here's what I've tested:

-Distributor cap looked gross so I replaced it.
-Tested both distributor parts to spec w/ multimeter (the ICM and the other part, I can't remember its name). (they were within spec)
-Tested black w/ yellow stripe distributor wire for power. (getting power)
-Tested main relay for clicking. (it clicks when I turn key to "On" position)
-Tested fuel pump for power. (getting power)
-Checked ECU for codes. (nothing)

What's next? Air/Fuel/Spark/Compression

I've tried pulling a plug wire, throwing in a spare plug, and setting it on various grounded places while cranking, but do not see a spark. When I tried doing the same thing to my (perfectly running/driving) Stealth TT I also did not see a spark, so rather than the car not getting spark I'm more inclined to believe that I'm just not doing that test correctly. What else can I test? I'm losing my patience with this car, but fortunately do not have time to work on it again until the weekend so that'll give me some time to get some answers from the people over here at H-T!

-Brian

update:
-Replaced rotor
-Checked fuel pressure (it sprayed everywhere, so I think its good )
-Main relay clicks, looks fine
-Timing belt still in one piece with no extra slack or anything
-All fuses under hood and under dash good
-As mentioned, coil/igniter were tested with multimeter to be within spec.


Modified by Hym3n at 11:46 PM 4/6/2008

 

bump

 

The only two things that ever kept
my car from starting were the main relay
and the ignitor in the distributor..

The ignitor failed twice...

http://autorepair.about.com/cs...a.htm
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq....html
http://honda.hybrids.jp/tech/p...shtml

 

Coil

 

check your fuses, main relay and the ecu ground on the thermostat housing.

good luck bro

 

happend with my 88 teg (winter beater) the exact thing, it had a new cap and rotor, but i thought i would just replace those and try it out, i put a new cap on, it ran for a week than completly **** out again, replaced the rotor, and fixed a couple torn boots inside that were ripped, and it has ran fine for 3 weeks now no issues

 

To check fuel pressure, turn key to ON position and just crack open the fuel line and see if it starts spraying? Its messy but that'd test it right?

Fuses under hood are all good.
Main relay still clicks.

ECU ground on thermostat housing? What is that?

Coil and igniter were both tested with a multimeter and are within spec. Can they still be bad?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hym3n &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Fuses under hood are all good.
Main relay still clicks.

ECU ground on thermostat housing? What is that?</TD></TR></TABLE>

u gotta check the ones under the dash too. make sure u check all of them, i think the main ones to check are 12 and 14, i cant remember but jus check em all.

the ground is consisted of 4 wire that bolts on top of the thermostat housing just behind the distributor. jus clean it up a little bit.

 

-Replaced rotor
-Checked fuel pressure (it sprayed everywhere, so I think its good )
-Main relay clicks, looks fine
-Timing belt still in one piece with no extra slack or anything
-All fuses under hood and under dash good
-As mentioned, coil/igniter were tested with multimeter to be within spec.

Next?