Searched but couldn't quite find the answer... so I was looking into buying the 6pt. cage from Cusco but as I read further it said that it was not for use with cars with sun/moonroofs... my guess is that the headliner is further from the roof than a car that doesn't have a sunroof...
so I was just wondering if anyone has attempted or actually got the cage to work with the sunroof, or if another company would work with a sunroof??

 

are you installing a cage for racing, or are you doing it to look "cool"

if the latter, reconsider. Driving on the street with a cage is a BAD idea.

 

it's a street driven car... but i'm going to be going to the track alot... would this even be worth it or should i just save my money??

 

save your money. the cusco cages offer nothing safety wise. theyre just a bunch of cool colored pipes flying around your car....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by the_unknown &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">save your money. the cusco cages offer nothing safety wise. theyre just a bunch of cool colored pipes flying around your car....</TD></TR></TABLE>

Do you speak from experience? My Safety21 cage (makes the Cusco items) saved my life a couple years back. A car without a cage would have crumbled down to the center console when T-BONED at 80+kph. The "around dash" mild steel Safety21 cage that was installed in my old car (RIP) is proof that people like you are blowin' smoke out of your asses!



integraty95 - go with a US cage because the Cusco cages are for RHD vehicles and the chromoly units are not recommended for serious track usage. The "around dash" cages will also fail tech inspect for most US tracks. Cusco does not sell a cage for Sunroof cars but Safety21/Carrosse does make one. You can get a very nice US made cage for less money and with no tech inspect issues.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dee &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">chromoly units are not recommended for serious track usage.</TD></TR></TABLE> You sure about that?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by k24em2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> You sure about that?</TD></TR></TABLE>
For Japan usage yes!! The mild steel cage has an FIA certification while the chromoly cage is listed as a "show" item.

 

In drag racing, a chromo cage is required past a certain ET

 

that was another question that i had... if I do decide to do this will I have to take it out in order to pass the safety test??

 

i have installed a 6 pt cusco cage with a sun roof and still kept the head liner all u have to do is use a 2x4 and a hammer to slightly bend the floor down about( 1/2 to 3/4 in)where the cage mounts behind the front seats.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mkw1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have installed a 6 pt cusco cage with a sun roof and still kept the head liner all u have to do is use a 2x4 and a hammer to slightly bend the floor down about( 1/2 to 3/4 in)where the cage mounts behind the front seats. </TD></TR></TABLE>

That is suicidal!! What you did was weaken the floor by stretching it!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mkw1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have installed a 6 pt cusco cage with a sun roof and still kept the head liner all u have to do is use a 2x4 and a hammer to slightly bend the floor down about( 1/2 to 3/4 in)where the cage mounts behind the front seats. </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

not really. its like 18 gage sheet metal not much strength there to begin with. no loss of strength if you consider the fact that your going to be adding plates to the bottom of the floor pan to begin with. o yea you will gain about 1/4 with removing the sound deadener in those spots so it really not as much as you think. u cant even tell it was pushed down, its not that much


Modified by mkw1 at 7:51 PM 4/2/2008

 

why not make the cage fit the car rather than the other way

 

then you go ahead and do that way but 5min extra and mine will be in and you witll becuting and sleeving and welding tubing back together and then repainting it sounds like a lot more work to me for just a bolt in cage.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mkw1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">not really. its like 18 gage sheet metal not much strength there to begin with. no loss of strength if you consider the fact that your going to be adding plates to the bottom of the floor pan to begin with. o yea you will gain about 1/4 with removing the sound deadener in those spots so it really not as much as you think. u cant even tell it was pushed down, its not that much


Modified by mkw1 at 7:51 PM 4/2/2008</TD></TR></TABLE>

The plates don't do crap when the surrounding metal has been weakened! Without door bars and a mainloop tie bar you are ensuring that the mainloop will rip itself through the floorboard.

 

how does having plates not help?why do u think real cages have pates welded on the bottom of each post? you are trying to tell me by bending the floor pan down i have taking all the strength away thats bullsh**. how do you think a floor pan is made? it pressed in a die stretching it to shape so your saying the factory took at the strengh away before i even touch it?i am not stretching it just bowing it in a small area and yes it is different. you can bow sheet metal with out stretching it like taking a sheet of paper and bending it until the corners meet. or you can stretch metal like squeezing it in a vise two totally different shaping methods

 

Damn!! USE YOUR BRAIN!

You are STRETCHING the metal in the mount plate are just so the cage can be installed. STRETCHING=WEAKING even if you can not tell that you used 2x4 and hammer to "massage" the metal to your likes. During a side impact or rollover your main loop mount points will more than likely RIP through the floor since you have weakened the area around the mounting area. Am I sure? Absolutely POSITIVE!! I'll try to dig up the pics from my wreck but the floor area around the right main loop mount wrapped itself around the mount and cage. Had I "massaged" the floor like you have done the car more than like would have crumbled in more the 6" that saved my life. The floor would have ripped out and the damage would have been in the 12"~18" range like most of the door. The mainloop and A pillar loop took most of the impact in my wreck.


I also have a bolt-in Safety21 6pt rollcage but I have the thru dash model that has A and B pillar stays along with door bars, a main loop tie bar, main loop to shock tower tie bars and a shock tower tie bar.


Why not just buy the correct item instead putting your life in the hands of guesswork and poor planning.

Back to the topic: Your best bet is to get a US cage that will pass US tech inspections for US tracks. If you just want to bling people out with a cage then just about any cage will do that. Doesn't autopower make a bolt-in cage for DC Tegs?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dee &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Do you speak from experience? My Safety21 cage (makes the Cusco items) saved my life a couple years back. A car without a cage would have crumbled down to the center console when T-BONED at 80+kph. The "around dash" mild steel Safety21 cage that was installed in my old car (RIP) is proof that people like you are blowin' smoke out of your asses!



integraty95 - go with a US cage because the Cusco cages are for RHD vehicles and the chromoly units are not recommended for serious track usage. The "around dash" cages will also fail tech inspect for most US tracks. Cusco does not sell a cage for Sunroof cars but Safety21/Carrosse does make one. You can get a very nice US made cage for less money and with no tech inspect issues. </TD></TR></TABLE>

i dont know of every model they sell but i know that cusco has at least a few cages where the latteral bars that run from the main hoop over the door and down to the floor under the dash attach to the main hoop with [freak]ing bolts. if you think that's anything close to safe you are way off base.

also, i cant really tell from the pics and im glad that it worked out for the best but if you cage doesnt have some diagonal bracing connecting the vertical pillars of the main hoop, i dont know how you think that the cage gave you a noticable difference in side impact protection.

if it's just a main hoop from b pillar to b pillar and nothing in between then it's doing anything noticeable above and beyond the b pillar itself.

take a paper clip and bend it in a c shape. that's your unsupported main hoop. quite bendy ehh? now imagine the same thing with an x brace from corner to corner. well there you go man.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by k24em2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">In drag racing, a chromo cage is required past a certain ET</TD></TR></TABLE>

and we all know that the NHRA has some GREAT saftey rules

just look at the whole debacle with the top fuel cars.....

 

The cages work damnit.

Get off your high horse and just accept it.

 

The car that T-Boned me hit the mainloop before down to the A pillar bar. Had it NOT been for the roll cage the car would have crumbled down to the center console. How do I KNOW the cage made a difference? I am here to counter comments about the worthiness of JDM bolt-in cages .

Everybody from the emergency workers and cops (Japanese and US military) on the scene to the insurance adjusters and doctors who pissed me off by poking the sore spots made the same comments "that monkey bar set saved your life! You are a lucky SOB". My car skipped 30ft (mostly in the air) after the collision. The police estimated that I was hit at 80kph+. A properly installed bolt-in 6pt Safety/Carrosse/Cusco cage without side collision bars will add side impact protection IF contact is made with the properly installed mainloop or A pillar loop. Now if you go gack in read what I wrote you'll notice that new cage that purchased attaches to the A/B pillar and has side collision protection.

Initial contact was here!!! That is the REAR WHEEL (notice how you can see more than 50% of the tire!!)


In this pic you will notice how the B pillar area (main loop) is not pushed in as far as the door.


Had the other car been a bit narrower in the front or if I would have spaced the cage out as far as possible I most likely would be cripple right now. The A-pillar bar stopped the car from crumbling down onto me.





If you need more pics I can upload some more to photobucket just for you
I know these cages work for sure! I walked away from a wrecked that should have at least crippled me and I have quite few drifter buddies who have walked away from series barrell rolls in their Silvias, Skylines, Hachi's and other crap with minor to no injury whatsoever (maybe sore pride). What point am I trying to get across? Get a US cage that will meet tech inspections and will not cost you 4 kidneys and 3 left *****. If you need the bling factor then get one of Carbing bolt-in 10pt cages

I have installed a couple of the Anodozed blue Cusco cages and in BOLD letters in the instruction manual it states that the cage is for show purpose ONLY and does not come with the FIA certification like the mild steel cages. Only Cusco sold the Chromoly cage. The Carrosse/Safety "brand" unit is mild steel only.

Oops.. I have to give the bucket seat some credit too. The high side seat prevented the impacting car from rolling up over my leg and it kept me snug. I thought I was paralyzed after the impact because I couldn't get out of the seat . Injuries: severely bruised right hip, bruised sternum, 3 cracked ribs and a sore knee.

Mr.E.G. re-read what I said!! In my case, my old bolt-in around-dashboard cage that did not have a side impact offered OUTSTANDING side impact protection during my specific wreck. The cage absorbed most of the impact with my hip taking the rest....hahahaha.

I have a different cage now!!
This a WRX cage but mine is similar! Notice the pillar stays? I did not get the X-bar side collision setup because it will not pass the safety inspection for the military bases. Yes, it will be street legal in Japan but the Hitler squad of 19 year olds with 9mm courage makers would drive me apeshit!!






Modified by Dee at 8:30 PM 4/4/2008

 

i still in no why agree with Dee. it is not being strecthed my way in no way, the amount of movement is not great enough to create a "stretch in the pan. besides enough arguing, if you where worried about the strength that much you wouldn't be buying cusco cage to begin with. a messaged floor will still be holding up way after your tin foil cage raps its self in to a pretzel on the floor from a roll over. i just wish i had pics form my last one.

 

ok look at how much your stuff moved...

This guy was t-boned at 55-65mph. Because of a real cage he saw MUCH MUCH less deformation.

http://youtube.com/watch?v=BLZdINxuGTo

 

best of luck to you man but i wouldnt be caught dead driving around with a cage that bolts together in so many places.

this isnt that hard to comprehend. those bolts and the corresponding tabs are the only thing keeping those tubes from turning into javelins.

i tell you what. find out the amount of force normally exerted on your car when it is struck at say 50 mph by a vehicle of similar mass. then for ***** and giggles do the same for a vehicle with 40% more mass or more than your civic. (suburban, cadillac cts, etc.)

then find out the amount of force it takes to shear one of those bolts. the end.

I am not entirely against the concept of roll cages in street cars and i have argued with slammed93 and a few other guys on honda-tech about this is in the past so i want to make it clear that my position isnt one of the "no roll cages in street cars" bandwagon. (i should probably add that i agree that roll cages in street cars are mostly a bad idea but i think that they can be made to do more good than harm, but that's another topic for another day)

a cage that is bolted together will never be as strong as a welded cage. period.

also, i am no expert by any stretch of the imagination, but chromoly is being questioned by many engineers. it's hard to ignore that.