my 1996 accord ex sedan now has a 1992 jdm prelude h22a engine and trans in it, as it has for the last 4 months, but i had not been able to get the p13 that came with the engine to work without throwing a code 41 heated oxygen sensor, so i began by tearing through all the swap techs and faqs on this and other sites. Some said swap pins a6 and a11 and others didn't mention it, well i tried it with the p13 and no luck either way, so i read some other swap techs about the h22 going into various other vehicles and it mentioned using a p28 so i bought one and hooked it up, boom no check engine light. after i hooked up the vtec pressure switch into the harness, so i have an uncut skunk2 obd1 to obd2a conversion harness with o nly pin d6 cut to splice in my vtec pressure. It was running a little erradic so did the first thing any honda guy would do, i push the dizzy to full advance, itt didn't like that so i backed it off to full retard, and then it was happy, ran great, i drove it around the block 2-3 miles and it was super. Ok now my questions
1. will it hurt the engine to keep running on this p28 unchipped or unmodded.
2. how much power can i gain by chipping
3. why didn't the p13 work, by buddy put it in his f20 and it was just fine, no check engine light or anything.
Well i had to car pool today since my 2001 accord has a missing key, and i wanted to consult the experts before i go out and really dog the old girl.
let me know.
thanks
Gibby

 

bump for my project finally being done.
gib

 

Because an unchipped P28 is for a Civic EX

Last time I checked that didn't come with a H22


Modified by TheMuffinMan at 1:40 PM 3/31/2008

 

i know the p28 comes with the civic ex, but i can't understand why it wouldn't throw a code when the p13 did, i am just trying to make sure i'm not gonna toast the engine by running this civic ecu in my accord. I was also wondering if someone could tell me what is involved in getting a ecu chipped. I understand the basics, take old chip out put new chip in with modified programing, but what kind of setup do i need to do this and should i even worry about it?
thanks muffin man
Gibby

 

Probably because it wasn't looking for whatever the code was for. Did you swap all the proper wires and run the correct new wiring for the knock sensor/etc?

Also did you in fact check the O2 sensor? you could try a defouler to see if that helps with ti, I haven't experienced that specific code.

As to hurting the engine, it certainly won't run 100% or properly, the reason people use CHIPPED p28's is because you're able to have a wider selection of options.

With chipping it's quite a difference, it's what I'm looking into now, I have a 96 Accord with an OBDI H22a as well with a P13.

Not sure why your P13 didn't work. I can only imagine it's in the wiring.

 

chipping an ECU is more than just "taking old chip out and putting new in". You have to de-solder and solder in a new socket, burn the chip, etc. Do some searching in the tech forums, you should be able to find a good amount of info on it.

 

i'm pretty sure you're right, but i didn't swap the a6 or a11 for the p28 to work, i did notice i had disconnected IACV and i hooked it back up before trying the p28, i'll try to swap the p13 back in and see if it throws the same codes now. I was wondering about this though and i've asked on a few other posts you've replied to but do you have to swap the pins a6 and a11 on an obd1 engine in an obd2a car?

I pulled the IAB, and Knock sensors in when i re-routed the vtec pressure and i had them hooked up to my p13 with no problems, but i did not hook them up to the p28 only vtec pres. Are some p28's not supposed to look for knock?
thanks
Gibby

 

Yep

X2 on what Touring said.

I am getting my EE degree at college and work for a professor on the side. One of the things we're currently doing is soldering together boards.

Desoldering a chip that's multiple pins is a pain in the *** and you have a good chance of messing up the board. What you'd want to do once it's desoldered is get a socket and solder that in so you can reflash and change the chip whenever.

In addition to that you'd need a chip programmer (they're not too complex but you'd need to buy one) and the software for it.

 

engineers love hondas, i am a mech engineer, but i design control systems, so i work mainly in the electronics area. WE build controls here and i can have a tech do the soldering for me, they have microscopes and mechanical assist arms and all this other jazz that makes it easy for them, they soldered up a new usb port in my laptop for me with ease. I am a real do it yourselfer, i would like to learn about doing the process myself to the greatest extent possible, but i realize where my limitations are and working with tiny parts close together is best left to someone with lots of patience. Since you're in the know, where would be a good place for me to source a socket, burner and some software?, i'll check the posts later, but any heads up is appreciated. I'll be back inside one of my control panels before long, but thanks for all you do on this site, i see you and touring accord posting all the time, and it just goes to show honda guys stick together.
respect from tennessee.
Gibby the red

 

I actually looked into it.

The programmers I actually make lol, but you can buy them online for $30-80 depending on settings and what not.

Burning software should be free, we use PiCKit 2

As to the chips used I'm not sure, you may be able to find a kit or something online you can use

 

phearable.net sells the chips, they're only like $25-30

 

thanks skim, i'm looking into, i have a book at home, i'll post the title later, that suggests that a pocketprogrammer or something called a mightymap, would be the appropriate package. I also suggest buying the emulator rom so that you can mod between dyno runs and get it just right before burning. I am looking for a more inexpensive option than buying the whole setup, but i would consider it if I could find a good deal. ok ok
I plugged the p13 up once i got it back from my buddy who is running a f20b, and he said it worked fine on his 98 accord with an obdb-obd1 harness in place. It still threw the heated o2 sensor code in my car where the unchipped p28 wouldn't. i'm trying to find the board diagram for the two computers to figure why this is. Anyway I'm saying that going forward you should use a p28 with a h22 and forget the wire criss cross bs. I'm going to put a stand alone iab and knock sensor on, courtesy of the controls group. Anyway more input is still needed about where i can get a socket for the board. Once i get that i can order the chip and programmer then is just about finding a baseline map to start with right? If anyone has done this feel free to shoot me some info.
thanks
Gibby

 

bump,
ok, i've ordered the chip from phearable.net, and i should be installing it as soon as it gets here, providing i can find a tech to saulder it up for me, i was wondering if anyone had any tips for installing one of these bad boys, and i'm looking for a good cheap wide band o2 sensor.
thanks
G

 

I looked into it more recently gibby.

If you have a virgin ECU, you'll need to desolder the points first as they're filled from factory, then insert the socket, then solder it.

Also looked like you needed to add 2 capacitors and 1 resistor

 

the phearable.net diy kit has a couple capacitors and a resistor it also has a couple of jumpers you add in .
shown here
http://www.phearable.net/shopp....html

and a couple of videos and a picture with a how to seen
here

http://www.phearable.net/image...s.gif

pretty cool stuff. SO ordered the kit with a prelude basemap on it. I've got some dyno time scheduled for the first of next month. I get paid 3 times next month, my old honda gets some attention then. I will have to tag this car in the county so i don't have to do an emissions test, but other than that it should be good to go.
thanks for all the help. I'll post some pics and a detailed how to as i go through it.

Gibby

 

not sure if this helps, but to run an 94 accord lx motor with a 94 teg RS computer, you do have to swap the a6 and a11 pins. i don't have my notebook on me right now, but one wire is the egr for the accord, and teg ecu is trying to send voltage to it thinking it's the o2 heater. and also, you can't really swap the pins because they are different sizes so you need to splice.

btw, you should check the o2 heater anyways, it's pretty easy, just checking the resistance at 2 pins on the o2 plug.

 

people run p28 computers on most swaps y not a h series.. there awesome for chippin ( chrome hondata) im not sure about runnin it on a stock h22

 

for one IABs dummy.


P72 has them, but still why in the [freak] would you run a unchipped 28... It makes 0 sense.... At all, but thats easy to get used to around here.

get a chipped ECU or a =p13. Anything else is stupid... Theres more to it than just swapping out the EPROM.

 

Well guys I just picked up my chipped P28.

I'll be desoldering the chip in there and soldering in a socket and ZIF socket on top.

I'll also be cleaning up the soldering on the other stuff (resistor, capacitor, the short)

I'll try to take some pics, I should be getting my parts early next week so I can start modifying it next weekend.

 

Wowzaa,
We are so caught up in our right and wrong society, that everyone thinks they are right. Anyway I am running the p28 because it doesn't throw any codes and doesn't make me swap any wires for 02 or anything else. The IAB still opens when the vaccum gets high enough, which might be my problem. I am losing power at around 2500 rpm. I starts up fine and no cel or anything but when i hold it at around 3000 rpm the engine cuts out and drops to idle then oscilates. I had the socket soldered in and i'm running a map on the PROM for a h22a baseline. I can't figure it out unless i have something wired wrong or i have a vaccum leak. I'm also having trouble getting my radiator fan working., my heater core leaks too. ANyway the project goes on. I'm ordering the exhaust, and trying to figure out which cat to use and which of the ultra cheap exhausts to buy. Any suggestions on this or the above problems is appreciated.
thanks
Gibby

 

Sounds like its working well for you

 

yeah its working, i still have some kind of throttle issue because it cuts out under certain loading conditions, but i don't think its ecu related. Anyway thanks again everyone.
the gib

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TheMuffinMan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yep

X2 on what Touring said.

I am getting my EE degree at college and work for a professor on the side. One of the things we're currently doing is soldering together boards.

Desoldering a chip that's multiple pins is a pain in the *** and you have a good chance of messing up the board. What you'd want to do once it's desoldered is get a socket and solder that in so you can reflash and change the chip whenever.

In addition to that you'd need a chip programmer (they're not too complex but you'd need to buy one) and the software for it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

you only do it once, then you solder in a dip socket. permanent, then you put a low profile ZIF in it ( semi permanet no need to ever remove it.

then you stick your eeprom in the zif, it is R and R like a CPU is to a mother board,

to go back to stock, erase the eeprom, burn the facotory map on it,

now with the emulator/romulator's (ostrich 2) we can RTP these things.

too ad development on the k inst too far!

 

Alright, same info as above. Car starts and runs great. I can take it up to 4k and its a sewing machine. When i go to drive it i can hold a steady 3k rpm and it will cut out all of a sudden like fuel was cut, i can bury the pedal while doing this and nothing happens, i'm running at like idle for about 5-8 seconds. Then I can rev it back up all the way and it will go. But if i let the rpm drop it will kill in the 1.5 to 3k range of rpm.

so whats up. Do i have a crossed sensor. I put in a brand new o2 sensor. I get signal on pin a6 into the ecu at idle its about .15 volts. This is a project car, but my Daily Drive went poop on me and i'm looking to make this thing work to get me to work right now. I'll try to video it tonight or something and post it. I haven't drove it much in the past 10 months since doing the swap, only a couple of times since swapping the ecu.

Again I'd like to know that i don't need to swap anything on the ecu. And by the way the Skunk2 obd1 to obd2a harness doesn't have a wire at Pin A11 so i can't swap anything. I added it to the old conversion harness and tried to swap to no avail. Any help is appreciated.
thanks
Gibby

 

I want to get the F22A4 in my car tuned, and the guys at the local tuning garage said they can get me a socketed and chipped P28 ECU, but because my car is an automatic, they cannot guarantee that the automatic will shift after the ECU swap. Should I go ahead and have them do it or will it screw up the transmission?