check light after swap?
Post this on the EF forum but did not get much feedback so hopefully someone here may have an idea to help me out.
I have a 90 civic hatch with a bone stock b18a. Roughly about 5 months ago when I did my swap I replace my fuel pump also with a 190 walbro because I was planning on going turbo this summer. Worked some problems out and got the car started drove for a couple of days everything was fine until I went to pump some gas. Pumped a full tank got in the car drove away while at the light I was going to reset the trip meter to see how much mpg the new motor would consume I notice that it was on E (past the E mark). I hit a couple of bumps and the needle jump back to the full mark and then back down but every time it gets to half tank the gauge reads just fine.
Also my speed gauge was bouncing for a while did a search on here and found that it was the speed cable but on my way to the junk yard the cable broke right in the sensor on the trans but I use a needle nose and pulled it out and replace it with the one I got at the junk yard. It works fine till this day.
Now that it is starting to get warmer when I drive on the freeway for about 15 to 20 minutes check light comes on and suddenly feels like it hauling a trailer but if I turn the car off and turn it back on it goes away and drives fine. I check it and the ecu was throwing a code 17 and 43 that is the speed sense and fuel supply system right.
I took the tank down and checked it, the connection at the pump was good soldered the connection and taped it good. Checked all the hose that goes to the tank all of them are on and tight. Fallowed the fuel lines along side the car under the carpet looks fine. Replace fuel filter and check injector are snug and clips are on correctly. Checked speed cable on the trans and behind the cluster snaps in tight looks fine.
But I still get the same problem on warm days. I don't know what else to check for anyone ever had this problem before? What do you think that might be causing this? Can it be a bad injector? How can you test a injector to see if it is bad or not?
Any help would be appreciated.
I have a 90 civic hatch with a bone stock b18a. Roughly about 5 months ago when I did my swap I replace my fuel pump also with a 190 walbro because I was planning on going turbo this summer. Worked some problems out and got the car started drove for a couple of days everything was fine until I went to pump some gas. Pumped a full tank got in the car drove away while at the light I was going to reset the trip meter to see how much mpg the new motor would consume I notice that it was on E (past the E mark). I hit a couple of bumps and the needle jump back to the full mark and then back down but every time it gets to half tank the gauge reads just fine.
Also my speed gauge was bouncing for a while did a search on here and found that it was the speed cable but on my way to the junk yard the cable broke right in the sensor on the trans but I use a needle nose and pulled it out and replace it with the one I got at the junk yard. It works fine till this day.
Now that it is starting to get warmer when I drive on the freeway for about 15 to 20 minutes check light comes on and suddenly feels like it hauling a trailer but if I turn the car off and turn it back on it goes away and drives fine. I check it and the ecu was throwing a code 17 and 43 that is the speed sense and fuel supply system right.
I took the tank down and checked it, the connection at the pump was good soldered the connection and taped it good. Checked all the hose that goes to the tank all of them are on and tight. Fallowed the fuel lines along side the car under the carpet looks fine. Replace fuel filter and check injector are snug and clips are on correctly. Checked speed cable on the trans and behind the cluster snaps in tight looks fine.
But I still get the same problem on warm days. I don't know what else to check for anyone ever had this problem before? What do you think that might be causing this? Can it be a bad injector? How can you test a injector to see if it is bad or not?
Any help would be appreciated.
today while driving I heard a squeaky sound coming from behind the cluster I think it might be the speed cable gonna grease it this weekend and see. Do you think this may be the cause of the code 17?
When I had my swap done, I would drive about 10 or so KM's then my engine light would come, vtec would stop working, and my speedo would 'bounce' as is goes down to zero, not to work again till the car rested and was restarted. The problem I was having was to do with my VSS (variable speed sensor). I have 2 vss from tigerjapanese, ( I highly recommend NOT going through them, all their stuff is junk! ), only to find out that my plug connecting to the VSS had become corroded. So a bit of brake clean, and help from a compressor, The plug connection had been fixed. Everything is working again. One day driving, I hit a nasty *** pot hole, and my needle in my speedo went to zero, immediately. I took my old VSS and replaced it, back up and working. I changed my Thermostat and got some fluid on my VSS, and now if I hit 140km, or accelerate at a very fast while on the highway, my needle bounces around 140km and doesn't work properly, but doens't throw a code this time and continues to work once I slow down.
I guess the moral of my story is, have you checked your VSS?
-Brian
I guess the moral of my story is, have you checked your VSS?
-Brian
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Mattbmenifee
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
3
Jan 19, 2019 08:52 AM
StrippedCrank
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
0
Jul 6, 2017 10:06 PM
Thmanx
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
4
Jul 30, 2015 07:06 PM
XstreamRocker
Honda Minivans, Crossovers, and Trucks
23
Oct 5, 2009 06:41 PM




