Well I had sent some money for some ITR Cams but apparently they are not really ITR's, b16's rather so as soon as I have this guy send my money back I'll have $560 to play with. Now I only have I/H/E, would I see any gains by purchasing a VAFC and having a dyno tune on the GSR? Or not worth it unless I have some more mods?

 

Bawmp!

 

I/H/E should still be in stock ECU capabilities to supply the proper fuel. Spend your money on something else

 

It isn't about supplying proper fuel it is about tuning the fuel curves to optimize.

You can see improvements on a stock car with just a VAFC. THe more mods the more gains and benefits you will see from tuning. I would not expect huge power gains but 3-5 hp isn't out of the question as well as smoothing out the power curve and picking up power in the midrange as well

 

Dude, dont do it. Beyond what you may think or have heard, you won't get any gains from that. What you might want to do is instead get some ITR cams (Set goin for sale in classifieds for like 300 shipped), some skunk2 cam gears, a B&M Fuel pressure regulator, then get some tuning and you will see some nice gains. You can find the parts for:

ITR cams: 250-350 (CTR bein slightly more)
Skunk2 Camgears: 175-250 (Can find for as low as 175 for a pair new)
B&M FPR: 75-150

Then get a VAFC and dyno tuning and you will be very happy.

 

I won't disgree there are better things to make power at the point he is at if he is willinng to (which he seems to be).

I will say we picked up 8 hp on a prelude with intake and exhaust (NO header) and 4 whp on a Civic SI with Intake and exhaust (NO header). These were peak number. THe SI picked up 3-6 hp in the mi range depending on the curve (Smoothed out dips). THe prelude was an amazing changed and it picked up between 9-14 hp in the midrange.

It can make a difference and can make power if tuned right.

 

Don't do it. It costs time and money to dyno tune your car.

If you are just going to put cams on, you would have to retune your fuel map so it would pretty much be all for not.

Put the money that you would have gotten an AFC with, and get a highflow cat. The exhaust works together as a system, and it is not working up to optimal potential with the bottleneck at the 2" cat. Its I/H/C/E not I/H/E

Carsound cats flow almost as well as test pipes, and they are cheap. $175 from ipsracing.com

 

not sure a cat will make a big difference but just FYI Hybrid Garage has carsound cats on sale till August for $129.

http://store.hybridgarage.com/

 

I already have a test pipe and I did notice a nice high end gain. Even though THIS ITR cam deal fell through I might try and find another. I cruised through classifieds and didnt see that 300 one, so if anyone knows anyone send em my way.

 

You are buying 00/01 ITR cams right?

 

Can I get a high flow cat that will bolt up without any welding on my 99 ls? I have evo exhaust and a neuspeed header.

 

The ones I was SUPPOSED to get were 98's why? Is there that big of a difference?

 

THere is a noticable difference between 00/01 and 98 ITR Intake cam. The 00/01 intake cam profile is identical to the CTR intake cam.

I dyno'd my 2000 Type-R and my 1998 Type-R stock and the 1998 is about 7-8 hp down on the 2000 so figure the cam being part of that is worth 4-5 more hp than the 98.

 

You can get a bolt-on carsound cat from http://www.ipsracing.com for $175

high quality, works well.

You will get gains from a highflow cat. Its pretty simple to see,

You have a highflow header, you have a highflow exhaust (2.25" or larger). Obviously these are built for performance, and optimal exhaust velocity, unlike the stock peices. Now inbetween these two performance components, you have a small, 2 inch, stock, poorly flowing cat.

Do you think it would cause a problem if there was a section in the B pipe that flowed 218.3 cfm instead of the normal 407.1 cfm? Obviously it would.

The stock cat flows 218.3cfm, it is a major bottleneck to the exhaust system. A Carsound cat flows 342.7 cfm, thats almost as much as a test pipe.

 

Didn't mean it wouldn't make a difference at all but how much did your exhaust make? I put a couple of different ones on my GSR and the most one ever made with the other bolt on's was 3.6 hp. Just saying don't expect anything stellar.

The exhaust is a system and shoudl be treated as such. But if you are not running a 2.5" collector header you have other problems too. What header is he running?

 

I agree competely, a catback exhaust with just boltons is not going to provide much hp. Once you start building up your engine (like it sounds like he is planning to) it makes more and more of a difference.

a 2.25" exhaust is capable of handling roughty 170-180whp, before you lose optimal velocity and scavanging. If you only have 140whp, you are not going to gain a whole lot from a catback and cat.. but if you have 160whp with a stock cat, you have a bottleneck problem and would see much better gains from the cat.


[Modified by StyleTEG, 4:39 PM 7/10/2002]

 

true to all of the above. Basically the only thing we seem to tend to do differently might be the order of the modification.

Get the 00/01 ITR Intake cam (Can be had brand new for just over $300) and get a cat with the left over. and Then save for the VAFC

 

Well its been confirmed the cams he sent me are not real ITR's so I put a stop payment on the check and I've got $600 to play with. Anyone have opinions on Crower cams? How beneficial would a stronger clutch be to me right now? Any other suggestions where to toss my cash? My suspension and appearance is fine, looking for as much power $600 can buy..also thinking of getting a port and polish done if I can find somewhere in MN to do it.

 

Exedy oraganic clutch/used ITR flywheel might be a good idea.