My alternator belt snapped yesterday, no big deal, but then the car stopped running. Pulled over, I was getting spark and fuel, and compression sounded like it was there, and I couldn't figure out why it wouldn't start. Pulled it home and took off the valve cover praying that the timing belt was still there in one piece. It was. I put the cams at TDC and it was fine, but the timing mark at the crank was off by about 2 inches. I don't have time to reset the belt but what are my chances I [freak]ed something up? Oh yeah, I wasn't pushing it. Cruising at like 3k





Modified by Ultraspeed DC2 at 8:25 AM 3/28/2008

 

i broke my t-belt cruising at 3000rpm
pull the timing cover and check the marks before you try to start it again

 

Only being at 3k you might be lucky. Set the timming correctly then do a comp test. If your **** then do a leak down. IF your super **** then take the head off.

Otherwise just fire her up and hope for the best.

After reading your post again. Im in question how the timing jumped so far. Does everything with the crank look OK? The key is still in crank/pully?

 

i would check the timing at the gear to be positive

 

your ALTERNATOR belt snapped?

well if that happened, you probably DRAINED your battery completely since your alternator was no longer supplying electricity. probably not enough juice left to start the car and KEEP IT RUNNING.

put a new alternator belt on and you should be good to go.

this should have nothing to do with the timing (unless you also broke your timing belt)
btw you have TWO sets of timing marks on the pulley.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Steady R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i would check the timing at the gear to be positive</TD></TR></TABLE>

steady r is right line up the crank mark then look at the gears

 

ahh, people aren't reading right, you know how if your distributor bearing seized it could make the timing belt skip on the intake cam? WELL....the alternator belt snapped and caused the crank to change timing from the cam gears. I just took all the other belts off on my way to the timing belt. If I put my crank at TDC, the cam gears are BOTH about 20degrees to the right. The cam gears are perpendicular from each other as they should be, and the crank is not!

 

oh yeah, i tried resetting the timing today, i loosened the tensioner and the belt won't loosen up, I'm still trying to take the crank pulley off to get behind the timing belt cover to see what the problem is. The timing belt walked towards the outside edge of the cam gears and cut the edge of the belt. I found out why the alternator belt broke. If you guys didn't notice from the pic i'm JRSCed and the idler pulley for the alt broke. Alot of the ball bearings fell to the ground and the C clip retainers for the bearing in the pulley are toast.

 

Damn dude, if i was in VA I would be working on that with you now. Hope you get it running good.
Worst case is you might need new valves and pistons... hopefully. Keep us posted bud.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ultraspeed DC2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you guys didn't notice from the pic i'm JRSCed and the idler pulley for the alt broke. Alot of the ball bearings fell to the ground and the C clip retainers for the bearing in the pulley are toast.</TD></TR></TABLE> sucks to hear what happened.... welcome to the OMG belts and ball bearings are flying around under my hood crew. Order a new idler pulley from Jackson (Moss motors) for like 35$ and replace belts. I'm confused -you say the timing jumped on the crank... that's wild. I'm also confused that you didn't hear the pulley going bad. I once had the ac pulley bracket shear off of the block and wiped out all my belts. Drove home 1.5 hours with only 2 ribs of the alt. belt. GL on getting everything back to good. Feel free to im with any questions... I'm learning more and more about these things.


-Shawn

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dsav4shawn &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I'm also confused that you didn't hear the pulley going bad. -Shawn</TD></TR></TABLE>
I did hear something, I figured it was the supercharger bearings going bad since I have approx 58k on the blower. It could be that too though.

 

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ultraspeed DC2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ahh, people aren't reading right, you know how if your distributor bearing seized it could make the timing belt skip on the intake cam? WELL....the alternator belt snapped and caused the crank to change timing from the cam gears. I just took all the other belts off on my way to the timing belt. If I put my crank at TDC, the cam gears are BOTH about 20degrees to the right. The cam gears are perpendicular from each other as they should be, and the crank is not!</TD></TR></TABLE>

i have had a power steering pump seize and smoke the belt and melt but how tight did you have it that it made the ribbed timing belt skip

 

Update: One way or the other, YES, it was the alternator belt that caused the problem. I took a Mac Tools 1000ft lb impact gun to the crank pulley bolt to get it off. The belt was inverted covering both alternator and AC grooves on the pulley. The belt made its way between the pulley and the timing belt cover. The timing belt cover melted at the hole's center causing melted plastic to get in the timing belt's way. It got caught on the crank gear and solidified towards the motor side of the gear. That in turn pushed the belt outwards towards the outer belt retainer that keeps the belt centered. The belt began to climb over that retainer causing a slit in the outer edge of the belt. So, the timing was lost at the crank while the cam gears stayed the same. I'm not sure if the crank only got moved some 20 odd degrees or so, OR, possibly the crank got a few revolutions more than the cams. I'd reset the timing now, but it seems I have some melted plastic/rubber to scrape off the crank gear before i can push it back on

 

^ wowsers... that's hard core. Hope everything is straight inside.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ultraspeed DC2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I did hear something, I figured it was the supercharger bearings going bad since I have approx 58k on the blower. It could be that too though.</TD></TR></TABLE>

My experience and what I've been told is that (in order) the idler pulleys, then the coupler and then internal bearings on the charger go bad. I have an entire rebuild kit for an eaton m62 charger -less a coupler. I was gonna rebuild my charger just for the hell of it while my engine was out -never got around to doing so. IM if you want teh rebuild kit fo cheap. GL on getting everything up. Are you at 5lbs?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dsav4shawn &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">^ wowsers... that's hard core. Hope everything is straight inside.

My experience and what I've been told is that (in order) the idler pulleys, then the coupler and then internal bearings on the charger go bad. I have an entire rebuild kit for an eaton m62 charger -less a coupler. I was gonna rebuild my charger just for the hell of it while my engine was out -never got around to doing so. IM if you want teh rebuild kit fo cheap. GL on getting everything up. Are you at 5lbs?
</TD></TR></TABLE>I just left 5.5psi recently. I'm probably about 200miles on 8.5psi with the MVM pulley. 9psi before I gut the cat.