I searched for a recent thread I saw about the oil pressure sender unit leaking on high mileage accords but I cant locate it

It must have been karma because shortly after I read it mine has started!

Do I need a new gasket or is it simply a matter of loctiting it and torquing it back in?
And is this possible without removing any components like the oil filter right below it?

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I am also planning on replacing my clutch (1st time, 190K on it) and am wondering if I should get a kit from someplace like TAS, or just order the different parts?

I believe I need a new throw-out bearing (clutch shudders on engagement when cold) Thats the same thing as a " clutch release bearing" correct?

Thanks
sohc

 

It will make the job alot easier if you remove the oil filter, then you need to use a screwdriver to crack the edge of the rubber boot so you can unhook the connector wire.
A semi-deep 24mm socket is the tool to have for removing the old OPSU.
When installing the new unit, smear a little sealer[hondabond/ultragrey] on the threads, don't over torque it. It is a tapered pipe thread fitting, around 10-12 ftlbs is enough.

I would say that getting a kit for the clutch is the best way to go, check to see if it has the pilot bearing in it.
Your clutch shudder could be a worn out pressure plate, or hot spots on the flywheel.
Be sure to use high temp grease to lube where the throwout bearing slides on the nose shaft of the trans. The throwout bearing will also have a grease reservoir groove inside the inner race, fill it up. And pop off the throw out bearing lever arm to grease the pivot point.
With the miles you have on your car I would also consider replacement of the rear main seal while the trans is off.

 

Great answers, thanks!

I read last night that oil getting into the clutch area could be causing my shudder so I will definitely be replacing the main seal. If it were a small amount of oil, would the shudder be there when pulling away in first on a cold start, and then pretty much vanish once the car got warmed up, but be there again the next morning?

If its the pressure plate, its being replaced, and I'm having the flywheel machined incase thats it.
I just don't want to put the time and money into it and still have the issue after its all back together...

My motor mounts have seen better days as well (originals) and I'v heard could be adding to the shudder?? The front and back have definitely deteriorated, but is it as common for the side mounts to need replaced?

This is my daily driver and I want to keep it for a long time. Since I'm already going to be digging into it, maybe I should spend $2K more and mount an H22 to my tranny? It wouldn't be quite as romantic as driving the F to 400K but its enticing...

sohc

 

Scratch the H22, I just need to "freshen up" my accord... I'm going to do the mentioned, as well as brakes, shocks, suspension grommets, oil pan gasket, T belt, water pump, new grounding wires.

Anything else?

sohc

 

Is there anything else I should replace that could be causing my clutch engagement shudder, while Im doing the other stuff?
Is there a seal mirroring the engine main seal that could be leaking tranny fluid?

Thanks!
sohc

 

oil pressure sending unit was leaking on my 95 accord, used hondabond on thread of sending unit and no leaking now...

 

Is hondabond an RTV compound or more a loctite substance? I would prefer to use the honda stuff but I already have loctite and just about every type of prematex rtv...

Would a high temp copper rtv work? Blue (medium) loctite?

thanks, sohc

 

yes, Hondabond is a liquid gasket. I wouldn't use loctite for this, you want to seal the threads not keep it from backing out.

An alternative to Hondabond is permatex gray. I'm pretty sure it lists in the back of the package as being a replacement for Honda and lists the part numbers, those part numbers matched what was in my 95 Accord manual. I used that at first on my Accord with no problems but later switched to Hondabond.