welding heeeelp
ok i was given an older century electric 110v welder, with PURE c02... i can get good strong welds, but my welds look like beads of hot glue or like when you get a caulking gun and lay down a bead of caulk... the only way i can get the "roll of quarters" look is to push rather than pull... wtf am i doing wrong
from what ive read pushing OR pulling is acceptable for mig, and every good mig ive seen looks nicer than a bead of caulk... i mean mine are straight, and strong ive done some test pieces and beat the **** out of them with a hammer, and the metal bends the weld never fractures, but i guess i just need some help? do i really need to lay down caulk sized beads, then go back and grid the **** out of them? am i doing something wrong? wire speed too fast? ive got the c02 set at 15cfm, im getting clean silver strong welds, maybe i need more clarifacation on how mig is supposed to look??
the prefered method is to push. Plus you can't use the pull method in all welding positions so you might as well learn. Why do you keep referring everything to caulk. if you just weld on flat material the bead is a lot taller then when your welding a joint. Mig welds won't have that roll of quarters look especially on mild steel, which i hope that is what your welding. You only wish welding was as easy as using a caulk gun.
i keep referring to it as caulk cause thats what my damn bead looks like, yes im welding mild steel...... yes i know its not as easy as using a caulking gun smartass why do you keep referring to caulk? its not that i dont know what im doing, its that i dont COMPLETELY know what im doing, im just wondering how to get my beads perfect, that is all
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by anomoly553 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i keep referring to it as caulk cause thats what my damn bead looks like, yes im welding mild steel...... yes i know its not as easy as using a caulking gun smartass why do you keep referring to caulk? its not that i dont know what im doing, its that i dont COMPLETELY know what im doing, im just wondering how to get my beads perfect, that is all </TD></TR></TABLE>
Don't mine him. That guy was being a smart *** to me also.
Don't mine him. That guy was being a smart *** to me also.
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well pictures would've helped in the first place so then maybe we would know what you're talking about. Here is a little more help, to flatten you bead turn your voltage up or lower your wfs, it all depends on how your bead looks like. Try one, change it back and then try the other until you can get to look smooth. Your travel speed may also be too fast. going a little slower helps flatten the weld bead, just don't go too slow. This "caulk" looking weld your are talking about i'm guessing is the high crown in the middle. Also what kind of weld are you talking about fillet, butt, lap.... Sorry I came off as a smartass, but these things could be found if you search a little harder, not just on honda-tech.
after 5 minutes of searchin netted this:
http://www.thefabricator.com/A...=1860
Modified by KENetics1 at 2:01 AM 3/27/2008
after 5 minutes of searchin netted this:
http://www.thefabricator.com/A...=1860
Modified by KENetics1 at 2:01 AM 3/27/2008
ok ive welded at the shop i used to work at, but that was years ago, i dont remember much, like i said my welds are strong, just ugly, and i dunno how it is supposed to look, ive searched google, youtube about mig welding, and nothing i found told me something i dont already know, my point is.... i see all the **** on google or youtube, the mig's come out shiny and coin looking, but mine dont, mine are just shiny, probly wirespeed too fast? i dunno that is why im asking for help.....i am very new to welding, i want to learn, ill post pics up....
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mn_babyboy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Don't mine him. That guy was being a smart *** to me also.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Okay i'll be nice, the base metal changes color because of the heat caused from welding. Like when steel gets hot from welding it glows reddish color then when cool has that color like in that picture.
Don't mine him. That guy was being a smart *** to me also.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Okay i'll be nice, the base metal changes color because of the heat caused from welding. Like when steel gets hot from welding it glows reddish color then when cool has that color like in that picture.
I would say you arent doing anything wrong from what you have said. Wire welds dont have a dime affect unless you are whipping a lot. Pulling will net you more pentration with a taller and narrower bead profile while pushing will result in a wider lower bead profile with less pen. (all this refers to the flat/slightly horz position) There are many types of weaves and whips to achieve your desired appearence. The most popular of which are a whip consisting of a forward/backward/pause motion and the ole zigzag weave.
With solid wire I prefer a FW/BW whip in all positions or progressions as it aids with pen and helps the weld wash into both sides of the joint.
The only time you use a circular/ half moon motion whip is when you are using a **** machine that has erratic voltage or wire speed and you need to kind of average out the inconsistancies.
With solid wire I prefer a FW/BW whip in all positions or progressions as it aids with pen and helps the weld wash into both sides of the joint.
The only time you use a circular/ half moon motion whip is when you are using a **** machine that has erratic voltage or wire speed and you need to kind of average out the inconsistancies.
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