Honda Accord (1990 - 2002) Includes 1997 - 1999 Acura CL

97 Accord LX power window (drivers front)

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Old Mar 25, 2008 | 04:42 PM
  #1  
mickyandmickey's Avatar
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From: Kennesaw, GA, USA
Default 97 Accord LX power window (drivers front)

Window went down, won't come back up. It did not seem to have a power draw (dimming lights) when the switch was used. I replaced the motor and regulator. Did not fix it. I got a drivers door module. The same symptoms occur. All other windows will work from the switch module, the locking button will function on the other three windows. I will have a multimeter tomorrow and will start hunting wires unless someone can give me a quick schematic or another possibility.

thanks in advance
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Old Mar 25, 2008 | 04:51 PM
  #2  
gofastperformance's Avatar
 
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From: harleysville, pa, USA
Default Re: 97 Accord LX power window (mickyandmickey)

same thing with my car take off the door panel and clean and lubethe slides and tracks worked great after word
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Old May 12, 2008 | 05:13 AM
  #3  
Furley's Avatar
 
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From: Albany, NY, US
Default Re: 97 Accord LX power window (mickyandmickey)

I have had the same problem, there are a few things you can do to help your case. Accords have bad luck when it comes to windows, first, you may want to take a silicone lubricant & lube up the tracks (internal to the door & front & back guides), as far as the window not coming back up, I ran into this problem also, unfortunately it was when the window was down & I had to leave my car parked in a less than desireable neighborhood. After that I disconnected the lift & zip tied the window in the up position till I could diagnose things. One day while closing the other windows, I heard the driver side motor working again, but I was still hesitant to buy either a new motor or a new switch for an intermittent problem (Expensive *** Honda parts!) To make a long story short, after checking sites like these, I decided the switch was most likely the problem.
1) I removed the switch from the door
2) Unscrewed the switch assembly from the trim panel (3 screws)
3) Lifted retaining tabs (4 Tabs)
4) Gently pried switch covers off actual switches, pry from the side gently with small screwdriver.
5) Removed the pin holding the driver side switch in place being careful to note where everything was situated
6) Using alcohol & Q-tips I cleaned all the build up that had accumulated on the contact area and adjusted the rocker contact to make sure it was making the up position connection. Inspect the area to make sure the area isn't so melted that the switch is unsalvageable.
7) Put it all back together & haven't had a problem since.
Mostly just a temporary fix but cheaper than a new switch at least $70, also there are two types of switches out there, white or black connector receptacle, this will decide if the switch screw holes will match with the trim panel. Hope this helps...

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