I tried searching the forums, I swear!
Lot's of advice on removing the crank pulley bolt using the special holding tool.

My question: can you put the manual transmission in first gear, hold down the brake pedal and remove/install the crank bolt?

The Chilton book says to put an old drive belt around the crank pulley and hold it from turning that way, but doesn't seem plausible in my mind. Anybody use this technique successfully?

Local store told me they would rent me this tool. They thought I meant a pulley puller/press, so now I'm screwed and have to buy this tool and wait for it to show up. I'd rather get this job done right and cheap and soon.

 

or you can find yourself a nice jack and a 24" breaker bar; drop it in drive and let it rip in the parking lot.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dleccord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">or you can find yourself a nice jack and a 24" breaker bar; drop it in drive and let it rip in the parking lot.</TD></TR></TABLE>

ha, no.... the engine turns counter-clockwise so it would tighten the bolt more.

 

to do it right, either get the tool or take it to some shop around the corner and ask them to loosen the bolt with an air gun, then tighten it snuggly, drive home and get to work. People have done this as I've seen it mentioned many times.

I bought the tool, not expensive, well worth it. Look at it this way, if you are doing the timing belt/balancer belt/water pump yourself and have some basic hand tools already... you could buy all the parts plus some, buy a Helm manual, buy the special tool and still be saving money over paying for this job to be done at a shop or the dealer. But now you have the Helm manual for every other job you need so it keeps saving you money and you have the special tool in case you ever need it again. I think I've used mine 4-5 times plus let another local HT member borrow it once.

 

Or if your really lazy and have air you can do what I did and get a 3/4" impact and a 19mm socket. Takes them off every time. A bitover kill, maybe, but its SO much easier.

 

TA:
I hear ya. It's just that my car rolled over 300,000 miles recently and I imagine this may be the last time it's gonna get a timing belt.
I just don't want to pay $40 for a one time use of a specialty tool, unless I really need it.

If I did have a shop airgun it, would that be the preferred method to then tighten the bolt once the job is over? How likely is tooth skipping/damage to occur if the engine turns clockwise?

 

The tool can be used on other Honda/Acura's so if you plan to stick with a Honda/Acura it wouldn't be a waste.

not sure how you would tighten it back up as I don't recall anyone ever posting back about that I have always had the tool to use.

Whatever you do though, DO NOT wedge a screw driver, pry bar or anything else into flywheel or other place to keep it from moving.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TouringAccord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

ha, no.... the engine turns counter-clockwise so it would tighten the bolt more.</TD></TR></TABLE>

hah, just learned something new today. id rep you but theres no rep system on here.