Hey, I have a 1994 Honda Accord 2 Door 4cyl. I'm using it as a daily driver and i have the following problems. If anyone has any ideas please let me know.

1. The speedometer is constantly stuck at 20 mph and sometimes it will drop to zero and start working again.
ANSWERED

2. Fuel gauge is inaccurate. It maxes out to abut 3/4 mark on the gauge. Sometimes it'll stop working and the neddle will drop to empty and jump up again.
ANSWERED

3. The switch on for the wiper arm doesn't work properly. You just have to mess with it a few times in order for it to work.
ANSWERED (Outside of HT)

4. The brakes are really senistive. If I leave the car to sit a few days the brakes will be really sensitve. If you just tap the brake it will stop extreamly suddenly. I mean if you drive it everyday it seems to be ok.
ANSWERED (Outside of HT)

5. My check engine came on while I was on the highway abd I have no idea how to pull the code because code scaners only apply to cars from 1995 or 1996 and up? So my question is how do I pull the code and how can I remove the check engine light?

ANSWERED BUT IS THERE ANY OTHER WAY THAN THE PAPER CLIP?

6. Finally does anyone know where i can get oem side skirts and head lights?

ANSWERED

7. So a new problem has occured. Oil on the spark plugs. I went to change the plug yesterday and when i pulled them 3 out of the 4 had alot of oil on them. Ideas?

ANSWERED
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Modified by thn116 at 8:53 PM 4/26/2008

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thn116 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey, I have a 1994 Honda Accord 2 Door 4cyl. I'm using it as a daily driver and i have the following problems. If anyone has any ideas please let me know.

1. The speedometer is constantly stuck at 20 mph and sometimes it will drop to zero and start working again.

2. Fuel gauge is inaccurate. It maxes out to abut 3/4 mark on the gauge. Sometimes it'll stop working and the neddle will drop to empty and jump up again.

3. The switch on for the wiper arm doesn't work properly. You just have to mess with it a few times in order for it to work.

4. The brakes are really senistive. If I leave the car to sit a few days the brakes will be really sensitve. If you just tap the brake it will stop extreamly suddenly. I mean if you drive it everyday it seems to be ok.

5. Finally does anyone know where i can get oem side skirts and head lights?


</TD></TR></TABLE>
1,2. these problems are most likely caused by the circuit board in the back....as well the speedo problem could be the small board behind that...replacing them should solve the problem, also with the fuel gauge make sure yuou fill your tank up right before you do this(convenience thing) so that you know where to set your fuel gauge at(you must open the cluster and physically move the gauge to full, but be careful not to break the needle or the gear)

3 replace the wiper assembly switch

4 have brakes professionally checked for proper bleeding and all

5 headlights you can get from certifit and i imagine you can order them from the dealer, side skirts your best bet it a junk yard or the dealer(maybe ebay?)

 

Do you really think I need to actally adjust the fuel gauge? I was thinking it was maybe the floating aparatus that is attached to the fuel pump or maybe some type of relay? The thing is that the gauge actally jumps from zero back to the 3/4 mark line.

 

I don't think any Honda has an accurate gas gauge, haha. Sometimes mine will read pretty close, I know that much because I compare it to the miles I drive, and sometimes it just hangs out on E.

 

Well mine isn't that accurate at all. I learned to cope with that fact its broken but I'd like to fix it so I don't have to guess all the time.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thn116 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do you really think I need to actally adjust the fuel gauge? I was thinking it was maybe the floating aparatus that is attached to the fuel pump or maybe some type of relay? The thing is that the gauge actally jumps from zero back to the 3/4 mark line. </TD></TR></TABLE>

the jumping problem could be the unit in the tank or the board behind it as i mentioned...but the 3/4 problem will MOST LIKELY be solved by manually adjusting the gauge however i dont gaurentee it and you may need to replace the gauge

 

side skirts (rocker pannels)

http://www.tasauto.com/Product...sz=10


headlights

http://www.tasauto.com/Product...sz=10

 

I must be the only person with a fairly accurate fuel gage...
If I'm getting a consistent 30 mpg on the highway it will go 150 miles to the 3/4 mark, 100 miles to 1/2 mark, 100 miles to 1/4 mark, and then if I wait to get gas, 100 miles to the E mark leaving me one gallon left in my 480 mile range

I will say that its only notable accurate like that on a road trip. short trips throughout a week will skew the reading slightly.

sohc

 

I'm going to replace the entire cluster. hopefully that will work.

 

Thanks but no thanks. This car is my beater car. The paint is faded, there is rust and countless amounts of dents. I just need to make it a bit more appealing with out hitting the bank hard. I have a 6th gen accord I use for the real fun so I'm trying to keep cost at an all time low of the other accord.

 

Get new circuitries as bseries mentioned. I had the same problem with my speedo, and themuffinman was able to sell me one for a great price. Just go to a junkyard, take off a cluster, and than behind the speedo, take off the green board. It's only 4 screws

 

That is what i'm going to do this weekend if I have time. Now if anyone can help me with the check engine light, that would be awesome.

 

I had to mess with the check engine light on my 94 accord a couple days ago.

It's OBD 1 so it's a little different.

Under the passenger side glove compartment you'll see a blue box, with two connectors in it.

You want the one with only two pins. pull it out, and short it with a paperclip, now turn your key on (engine off) and the check engine light will start flashing the code for you.

You can look the codes up online.

Hope this helps.

 

There isn't other way? Does that mess anything up? Does it get rid of the light as well?

 

It doesn't get rid of the light.

If there are any Advance Auto Parts by your house, they have a scanner that reads the codes and than prints them out for free. Other stores might do it as well too

 

I feel like I'm reading my own post. I've had everyone of your issues... Literally!

1. My speedo went nuts (replaced the circutry twice and the speed sensor on the tranny)

2. My gas guage would not go above 1/4 tank (replaced the sending unit in the tank)

3. I've gotten CEL so many times over the years (replaced the engine and so many other things)

4. I replaced the headlights because they were so baddly faded and chipped from years of bugs and road grime smashing into them at highway speeds

5. Finally I replaced my drivers side side skirt because I lost it one day driving to work. (looked in the rearview an saw it sliding across 95N through three lanes of traffic) After the semi hit it I didn't bother going back, but it was pretty hilarious.

In short, that's all apart of owning a 14 year old car. I ended up buying a car from a guy who's daughter wrecked hers by hitting a tree and scavanging off that one to make mine whole again. The only thing I have left to do is replace the passanger side door (got one off the other car) and fix the rust spot under the fuel door (another common issue) then paint her and she will be good as new.

Sorry to jack your thread but I couldn't help but notice the similarities. Your car wouldn't happen to be midnight blue would it? (nah of course not)

Good luck!

 

They can't pull codes off of anything under a 1995

 

Haha don't worry about it. By the way it is not blue but white. That would be pretty funny if it was though. Now that you mention it, i do have rust near the gas door. I guess we can add that to the list too lol.

 

bump

 

Why are you bumping?

There's so much crap in the thread I can't see what you need.

YOU can pull codes off of it by using the blue jumper and shorting it with a paper clip it's located behind/under the glove box

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BoostedH23Accord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> and fix the rust spot under the fuel door (another common issue) then paint her and she will be good as new.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

lol!!! i have that problem too, i didnt know that it was a common issue though.

 

Just do the paper clip method. than you'll know what you'll have to fix, therefore, eliminating the problem. or if your not worried about the check engine light and want it to disappear, cut the wire that goes to that bulb. hahahha

 

My fuel gauge is the same too. It's been off since day one. It's the float right? I guess it's a defect, I know alot of my buddies have faulty gauges too.

 

Its either the floating mechanism or the acutal gauge itself. When I replace the cluster, I'll know for sure.

 

there isn't any other way than the paper clip method?