I've been researching and studying up on the alarm installs/documents found here and have a few questions. I have a Viper 5002, DEI batt backup, glass breakage sensor, and tilt sensor, going into an EK hatchback.

First off, do I really need to diode isolate my sensors a'la this diagram?:


I read somewhere in my researching that diodes were not necessary. True, or should I still use them anyway?

My viper install guide says it has two optional sensor input ports, that use a 4-pin white plug. Can I get these plugs somewhere so I don't need to splice/wire in my sensors? Do I need to do anything additional if I get those plugs other then just plug them into the brain? Not a huge deal just thought it might make things quicker and easier.

Now for start kills, I have a few questions. The stealth alarm guide recommends using a second start kill if using a fuel pump kill (lets assume I will use a manual fuel kill switch). My alarm has the connector with 3 thick green wires on it (immobilizer wiring). So, I will use that wiring on my starter wiring, that would be my "starter kill", correct? So now I have 2 start kills total, "fuel kill" and "starter kill". Do I do yet another start kill, say on the clutch? That would be 3 start kills total...or is 2 start kills sufficient like just doing the fuel and starter kill?

I also have OEM door locks that were installed as an upgrade by my friend. I don't think that will be too hard to wire up since my alarm has the door lock harness, I just need to know where my friend put all the wiring

Anyway, I think that is it for now, I appreciate any help, thanks.

Justin

 

Yes you need to use diodes anytime more then one sensor is plugged into the same input.
The Viper 5002 has 2 sensor inputs...
Optional Sensors, 4-Pin White Plug
There are two optional sensor input ports. Optional sensors which can be used are field, tilt, ultrasonic, or glass breakage. Alarm trigger inputs shorter than 0.8 seconds will trigger the Warn Away® response, while inputs longer than 0.8 seconds will trigger full alarm sequence and report Zone 4 or Zone 7 for multiplex input.

The plugs should come with the sensors, [plug and play] as long as they are DEI sensors.

Use the "immobilizer" output from the alarm for the "starter kill", wire it normally open, green/white and green.
Add the redundant, [not controlled by the alarm] "fuel cut off", but install the switch on the PGM-FI Main Relay ground, [ground for injector relays coil] it will shut down the injectors, the fuel pump, a number of engine sensors and one of the powers into the ECU/ECM, much harder to bypass then just a kill switch on the fuel pumps power lead.

When you say... "I also have OEM door locks that were installed as an upgrade by my friend what exactly do you mean...
Do the door locks work now?
Did he install the complete system, door lock actuators, door lock control module, wiring and door lock switch? 94

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yes you need to use diodes anytime more then one sensor is plugged into the same input. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks, I'll make sure to isolate sensors then if they go into the same input. I think if I can plug directly into my brain using the plugs though I might have less of this to do.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The Viper 5002 has 2 sensor inputs...
Optional Sensors, 4-Pin White Plug....
....
The plugs should come with the sensors, [plug and play] as long as they are DEI sensors.</TD></TR></TABLE>

My sensors are DEI tilt and glass breakage, I opened my tilt sensor but did not see a plug for the brain side. Only a plug on the sensor side, then bare wires on the brain side. I'll double check, and see what my glass breakage sensor has in it's package.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Use the "immobilizer" output from the alarm for the "starter kill", wire it normally open, green/white and green.
Add the redundant, [not controlled by the alarm] "fuel cut off", but install the switch on the PGM-FI Main Relay ground, [ground for injector relays coil] it will shut down the injectors, the fuel pump, a number of engine sensors and one of the powers into the ECU/ECM, much harder to bypass then just a kill switch on the fuel pumps power lead.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks for that info, I'll wire up my immobilize then and try to setup the fuel cut as suggested. I'll have to find out where those relays are but shouldn't be too difficult. Thanks for clearing that all up.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When you say... "I also have OEM door locks that were installed as an upgrade by my friend what exactly do you mean...
Do the door locks work now?
Did he install the complete system, door lock actuators, door lock control module, wiring and door lock switch? 94
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, the door locks work fine. He did a full OEM power conversion.

Thanks again for the help, appreciate it!

Justin

 

the power windows and locks were done by me, everything is oem so picture as if youre installing on a 96-98 EX. infact this is the car that I built the walkthrough on. heh

 

Door locks, [key-less entry] will be easy, a simple neg.(-) pulse system.

You should be able to get the 4pin plugs at any DEI car audio/security shop, I know I probably have a few and we are not a DEI shop.

It does surprise me that the sensor only has the sensor end plug on it. 94

 

I checked my glass breakage sensor, and it does have a little Y connector with the brain side plug on it. It also has a plug to connect the standard alarm shock sensor with it inline. Since I'm not using that shock sensor, I think I will de-pin the plug that goes to the shock sensor on that Y connector and use it for my tilt sensor (it looks like the same plug that goes to the brain). If that fails I'll see if the car audio shop has them where I bought my alarm, I need to go back there for a hood pin anyways.

If I can get the plugs to work out I don't think I'll need to diode isolate anything.

Justin

 

Looked at my instructions for the tilt sensor and it just has directions for wiring it into 12v constant (red wire), ground-when-armed (orange wire), and blue instant trigger. Nothing about using plugs

Any idea how to tell what prong (male) is what on the alarm sensor input port? So I know where to put each colored wire from the sensor into the plug so it lines up to the correct prong on the alarm input? Hope that made sense...

The extra shock sensor plug on my glass breakage Y connector has multiple wires soldered into each pin. Should be fun taking apart...

Justin

 

Ok, well here is what I have done so far, looking for some input to make sure I've got things started off properly.

I decided to just wire up the Tilt sensor as described in the install manual (same as stealth install says too). So, I put a couple diodes together, soldered the positive side ends to the alarm blue trigger input (H1/7), and then soldered the tilt sensor blue wire to one diode and soldered the trunk trigger wire to the other diode (I'll run that wire to the trunk wire in the car and splice it in). Then the tilt sensor orange wire I'll splice into the alarms orange ground-when-armed H1/12 (no need for diodes on orange right?). I'll probably change my diode setup in the pic to use the diodes that came with my alarm in their fancy shrink wrapping

For the battery backup I soldered the alarms red wire to the gray wire on the backup battery wire harness. For the trigger I'll run the backup batts blue wire to my H2/2 gray hood input trigger wire, along with the hood pins trigger wire itself. No diodes here needed, correct?

Click to enlarge:


That sound good so far?

Glass sensor is plug and play, nothing to do there. I'm not worried about the door locks at all or finding 12v constant or ignition, wiring immobilizer, etc.

Anyways, I appreciate any feedback, thanks again for the help fcm.

Justin