Any known issues i should be made aware of?
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From: JDM land, usa
Any known issues i should be made aware of?
alright so im trying to scoop up my friends AP1, it has 74000 on the clock...are there any known issues with AP1's? the top he has for it has a tear in the plastic window, but a new top is on the way...i've driven this car and put it on the lift at work and everything looks great with it. Apparently some 45 year old guy had it, was the first owner and sold it to my friend...it has all maintanence records as well as some extended warranty that dosent run out until next year...just wondering if there are somethings i might have to fix before it breaks lol
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Re: Any known issues i should be made aware of? (HondaKyle)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HondaKyle »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The search button? </TD></TR></TABLE>
two steps ahead...only thing i found was a thread on an electrical problem
two steps ahead...only thing i found was a thread on an electrical problem
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From: South Bay, CA, USA
I'll help you out a little bit.
Other things that are known problems with the S2000 are the following:
-Earlier models (MY00-midMY02) had a problem with the banjo oil jet bolts, they had 2 holes instead of 4 and in some cases cause premature failure in cylinder 4. To see if you have one with only 2 holes in the oil jet bolts, look at the engine stamped into the block right under intake manifold towards the front of the car. It should be like F20C XXXX XXXX. If the number is AFTER F20C 1102 5386, you should be fine, as honda revised the bolts after this model. If it's before I'd do a compression test/leakdown test on the car before you buy it and then upgrade the bolts yourself.
- AP1 Retainers problem. The AP1 valve retainers aren't very strong. If the car has ever been mechanically over-revved (as in downshifting, not hitting fuel cutoff), most likely some of the valve retainers have cracks in them. When they do, the valves slightly drop in further than others that haven't cracked. You can examine it by taking the valve cover off. The problem is, when the retainer DOES give way, the valve WILL drop, and your engine will be done for. The performance doesn't drop when the valve retainer cracks, and there's absolutely no warning until the engine blows due to a dropped valve. I'd just recommend replacing EVERY intake side valve retainer with the AP2 valve retainer, they're much beefier and there have been no reported cracked AP2 retainers.
Other things that are known problems with the S2000 are the following:
-Earlier models (MY00-midMY02) had a problem with the banjo oil jet bolts, they had 2 holes instead of 4 and in some cases cause premature failure in cylinder 4. To see if you have one with only 2 holes in the oil jet bolts, look at the engine stamped into the block right under intake manifold towards the front of the car. It should be like F20C XXXX XXXX. If the number is AFTER F20C 1102 5386, you should be fine, as honda revised the bolts after this model. If it's before I'd do a compression test/leakdown test on the car before you buy it and then upgrade the bolts yourself.
- AP1 Retainers problem. The AP1 valve retainers aren't very strong. If the car has ever been mechanically over-revved (as in downshifting, not hitting fuel cutoff), most likely some of the valve retainers have cracks in them. When they do, the valves slightly drop in further than others that haven't cracked. You can examine it by taking the valve cover off. The problem is, when the retainer DOES give way, the valve WILL drop, and your engine will be done for. The performance doesn't drop when the valve retainer cracks, and there's absolutely no warning until the engine blows due to a dropped valve. I'd just recommend replacing EVERY intake side valve retainer with the AP2 valve retainer, they're much beefier and there have been no reported cracked AP2 retainers.
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Re: (danvuquoc)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by danvuquoc »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'll help you out a little bit.
Other things that are known problems with the S2000 are the following:
-Earlier models (MY00-midMY02) had a problem with the banjo oil jet bolts, they had 2 holes instead of 4 and in some cases cause premature failure in cylinder 4. To see if you have one with only 2 holes in the oil jet bolts, look at the engine stamped into the block right under intake manifold towards the front of the car. It should be like F20C XXXX XXXX. If the number is AFTER F20C 1102 5386, you should be fine, as honda revised the bolts after this model. If it's before I'd do a compression test/leakdown test on the car before you buy it and then upgrade the bolts yourself.
- AP1 Retainers problem. The AP1 valve retainers aren't very strong. If the car has ever been mechanically over-revved (as in downshifting, not hitting fuel cutoff), most likely some of the valve retainers have cracks in them. When they do, the valves slightly drop in further than others that haven't cracked. You can examine it by taking the valve cover off. The problem is, when the retainer DOES give way, the valve WILL drop, and your engine will be done for. The performance doesn't drop when the valve retainer cracks, and there's absolutely no warning until the engine blows due to a dropped valve. I'd just recommend replacing EVERY intake side valve retainer with the AP2 valve retainer, they're much beefier and there have been no reported cracked AP2 retainers.</TD></TR></TABLE>
really? that sounds um...not cool....ill try and compression test it as well as taking the valve cover off to look at the retainers...anything else, as if that was bad enough lol
Other things that are known problems with the S2000 are the following:
-Earlier models (MY00-midMY02) had a problem with the banjo oil jet bolts, they had 2 holes instead of 4 and in some cases cause premature failure in cylinder 4. To see if you have one with only 2 holes in the oil jet bolts, look at the engine stamped into the block right under intake manifold towards the front of the car. It should be like F20C XXXX XXXX. If the number is AFTER F20C 1102 5386, you should be fine, as honda revised the bolts after this model. If it's before I'd do a compression test/leakdown test on the car before you buy it and then upgrade the bolts yourself.
- AP1 Retainers problem. The AP1 valve retainers aren't very strong. If the car has ever been mechanically over-revved (as in downshifting, not hitting fuel cutoff), most likely some of the valve retainers have cracks in them. When they do, the valves slightly drop in further than others that haven't cracked. You can examine it by taking the valve cover off. The problem is, when the retainer DOES give way, the valve WILL drop, and your engine will be done for. The performance doesn't drop when the valve retainer cracks, and there's absolutely no warning until the engine blows due to a dropped valve. I'd just recommend replacing EVERY intake side valve retainer with the AP2 valve retainer, they're much beefier and there have been no reported cracked AP2 retainers.</TD></TR></TABLE>
really? that sounds um...not cool....ill try and compression test it as well as taking the valve cover off to look at the retainers...anything else, as if that was bad enough lol
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From: South Bay, CA, USA
Re: (boots)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boots »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
really? that sounds um...not cool....ill try and compression test it as well as taking the valve cover off to look at the retainers...anything else, as if that was bad enough lol</TD></TR></TABLE>
Everything else is pretty good. There is a problem with a Timing chain tensioner that goes bad often, some people have replaced it 3 times, but it's a fairly cheap item. The two I listed are just ones to look out for with AP1s. The oil jet bolts aren't hard to replace, it involves removing the oil pan and changing a few bolts, that's all. Checking the retainers is a little bit more involved. But for a used car, I would do these checks without a question. Even if you pay a mechanic to check for cracked retainers and do a compression/leakdown test, you'll only pay $250 dollars tops. If you look at the engine stamp code and it's after the number I listed, you don't need to worry about the oil jet bolts, just if it's ever been over-revved.
really? that sounds um...not cool....ill try and compression test it as well as taking the valve cover off to look at the retainers...anything else, as if that was bad enough lol</TD></TR></TABLE>
Everything else is pretty good. There is a problem with a Timing chain tensioner that goes bad often, some people have replaced it 3 times, but it's a fairly cheap item. The two I listed are just ones to look out for with AP1s. The oil jet bolts aren't hard to replace, it involves removing the oil pan and changing a few bolts, that's all. Checking the retainers is a little bit more involved. But for a used car, I would do these checks without a question. Even if you pay a mechanic to check for cracked retainers and do a compression/leakdown test, you'll only pay $250 dollars tops. If you look at the engine stamp code and it's after the number I listed, you don't need to worry about the oil jet bolts, just if it's ever been over-revved.
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Re: (danvuquoc)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by danvuquoc »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Everything else is pretty good. There is a problem with a Timing chain tensioner that goes bad often, some people have replaced it 3 times, but it's a fairly cheap item. The two I listed are just ones to look out for with AP1s. The oil jet bolts aren't hard to replace, it involves removing the oil pan and changing a few bolts, that's all. Checking the retainers is a little bit more involved. But for a used car, I would do these checks without a question. Even if you pay a mechanic to check for cracked retainers and do a compression/leakdown test, you'll only pay $250 dollars tops. If you look at the engine stamp code and it's after the number I listed, you don't need to worry about the oil jet bolts, just if it's ever been over-revved. </TD></TR></TABLE>
well im a mechanic so i can take care of all that **** myself...i just wanted to see if there were any problems that should keep me from buying it...i can be almost 100% sure its never been over reved...hell, i think the only time it has seen that 9,000 redline is maybe 5 or 6 times with me and my friend driving it
Everything else is pretty good. There is a problem with a Timing chain tensioner that goes bad often, some people have replaced it 3 times, but it's a fairly cheap item. The two I listed are just ones to look out for with AP1s. The oil jet bolts aren't hard to replace, it involves removing the oil pan and changing a few bolts, that's all. Checking the retainers is a little bit more involved. But for a used car, I would do these checks without a question. Even if you pay a mechanic to check for cracked retainers and do a compression/leakdown test, you'll only pay $250 dollars tops. If you look at the engine stamp code and it's after the number I listed, you don't need to worry about the oil jet bolts, just if it's ever been over-revved. </TD></TR></TABLE>
well im a mechanic so i can take care of all that **** myself...i just wanted to see if there were any problems that should keep me from buying it...i can be almost 100% sure its never been over reved...hell, i think the only time it has seen that 9,000 redline is maybe 5 or 6 times with me and my friend driving it
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Re: (LAS2K)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LAS2K »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Read every single link in my sig. </TD></TR></TABLE>
ive read most of them already lol....oh and on the insurance note, state farm quoted me $85 a month for full coverage...i was like damn
ive read most of them already lol....oh and on the insurance note, state farm quoted me $85 a month for full coverage...i was like damn
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Re: (danvuquoc)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boots »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">alright so im trying to scoop up my friends AP1, it has 74000 on the clock...are there any known issues with AP1's? the top he has for it has a tear in the plastic window, but a new top is on the way...i've driven this car and put it on the lift at work and everything looks great with it. Apparently some 45 year old guy had it, was the first owner and sold it to my friend...it has all maintanence records as well as some extended warranty that dosent run out until next year...just wondering if there are somethings i might have to fix before it breaks lol</TD></TR></TABLE>
well the only issue i see is that its an AP1 and it will obviously be slower and uglier than an AP2... besides that youll be ok...
well the only issue i see is that its an AP1 and it will obviously be slower and uglier than an AP2... besides that youll be ok...
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Re: (S2KILLA)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by S2KILLA »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
well the only issue i see is that its an AP1 and it will obviously be slower and uglier than an AP2... besides that youll be ok... </TD></TR></TABLE>
x2 QFTMFT
well the only issue i see is that its an AP1 and it will obviously be slower and uglier than an AP2... besides that youll be ok...
</TD></TR></TABLE>x2 QFTMFT
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Re: (S2KILLA)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by S2KILLA »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
well the only issue i see is that its an AP1 and it will obviously be slower and uglier than an AP2... besides that youll be ok... </TD></TR></TABLE>
i prefer AP1's honestly...and it would be my daily driver...i have my integra as my go fast car lol
well the only issue i see is that its an AP1 and it will obviously be slower and uglier than an AP2... besides that youll be ok...
</TD></TR></TABLE>i prefer AP1's honestly...and it would be my daily driver...i have my integra as my go fast car lol
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Re: (ReddotsS2K)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ReddotsS2K »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">watch out for the chinchilla in the secret compartment. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Rofl.
Rofl.
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Re: (boots)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boots »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i prefer AP1's honestly...and it would be my daily driver...i have my integra as my go fast car lol</TD></TR></TABLE>
because they are cheaper
i prefer AP1's honestly...and it would be my daily driver...i have my integra as my go fast car lol</TD></TR></TABLE>
because they are cheaper
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From: SoCal
Re: (S2KILLA)
air leak/gap in the top where it meets the windshield
12v socket fall out
crunchy clutch pedal
faded rear lens
chipping windshield(early ap1)
overrev
diff noise
TCT noise
bend shifter
2nd and six gear pop out/block out
225 rear tires
spring spacer
starter grinds
12v socket fall out
crunchy clutch pedal
faded rear lens
chipping windshield(early ap1)
overrev
diff noise
TCT noise
bend shifter
2nd and six gear pop out/block out
225 rear tires
spring spacer
starter grinds
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Re: (S2KILLA)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by S2KILLA »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
because they are cheaper</TD></TR></TABLE>
....i know
because they are cheaper</TD></TR></TABLE>
....i know
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