1994 Del Sol VTEC Fuel Pump Power Wire Location (for Kill switch)????
Hello all,
Im getting ready to put in a fuel pump kill switch on my Sol and before I start tearing stuff apart I just wanted to know the location for the fuel pump power wire, also any instructions, tips on how to get to it.
Also I would appreciate if any of you guys that may have already put a fuel pump kill switch on a Sol let me know the color of the wire. Ill be double checking it with a multimeter but it would be nice to know ahead of time. Thanks
Im getting ready to put in a fuel pump kill switch on my Sol and before I start tearing stuff apart I just wanted to know the location for the fuel pump power wire, also any instructions, tips on how to get to it.
Also I would appreciate if any of you guys that may have already put a fuel pump kill switch on a Sol let me know the color of the wire. Ill be double checking it with a multimeter but it would be nice to know ahead of time. Thanks
yes i would also like to know as this is something i have been wanting to do until i get an alarm. I have a 92 eg
If you don't want to go through the hassle of removing the rear paneling, you could wire up to the clutch pedal instead. Just cut into one of the clutch wire and hook up your hidden switch. That's what I'm planning on doing to my Sol.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NVturbo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you don't want to go through the hassle of removing the rear paneling, you could wire up to the clutch pedal instead. Just cut into one of the clutch wire and hook up your hidden switch. That's what I'm planning on doing to my Sol.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
It's really not very difficult. It wont take more than about 20 minutes to remove the paneling. The best order is this
1. Rear gray panel right below the rear window
2. The two side speaker panels
3. Center arm rest console
4. Rear console that has the drawers
</TD></TR></TABLE>It's really not very difficult. It wont take more than about 20 minutes to remove the paneling. The best order is this
1. Rear gray panel right below the rear window
2. The two side speaker panels
3. Center arm rest console
4. Rear console that has the drawers
I forgot about this http://causeforalarm.thecarthi....html
So is he saying on they 92-95 it is the yellow wire that i need to cut into?
So is he saying on they 92-95 it is the yellow wire that i need to cut into?
3 posts up from you there's a picture of the actual wire.
ALWAYS meter the wire. There is some variation between different models and years. There is always more than one yellow wire. Sometimes, there is more than one yellow/green wire.
ALWAYS meter the wire. There is some variation between different models and years. There is always more than one yellow wire. Sometimes, there is more than one yellow/green wire.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by couch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I saw the pictures but didnt know if the sol was the same as an eg</TD></TR></TABLE>
A quote from this thread
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1794938
"When you think you've found the wire, you have to verify it. Set the multimeter to 20V DC. Connect the red probe of your multimeter to the wire. Connect the black probe to ground (bare metal of the chassis frame). Turn the key to the on position but don't start it. The multimeter should jump to 12 volts and then back to zero. Start the car. The multimeter should jump to 12 volts and stay there until you shut down the engine. "
You dont need to cut the wire to test it, some multimeters have a pointy tip that you can push into the wire without cutting it and hold it there until you get a reading.
A quote from this thread
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1794938
"When you think you've found the wire, you have to verify it. Set the multimeter to 20V DC. Connect the red probe of your multimeter to the wire. Connect the black probe to ground (bare metal of the chassis frame). Turn the key to the on position but don't start it. The multimeter should jump to 12 volts and then back to zero. Start the car. The multimeter should jump to 12 volts and stay there until you shut down the engine. "
You dont need to cut the wire to test it, some multimeters have a pointy tip that you can push into the wire without cutting it and hold it there until you get a reading.
Forget the fuel pump power lead, it is too easy to bypass.
A more effective way is to install a kill switch on the ground to the PGM-FI Main Relay, [ground for injector relays coil] it is a ground so no 12V+ to deal with, it is low current, so only a small, easily hidden, 1A switch is needed and it will shut down the fuel pump, the injectors, one of the powers for the ECU/ECM and power for a few engine sensors.
94
A more effective way is to install a kill switch on the ground to the PGM-FI Main Relay, [ground for injector relays coil] it is a ground so no 12V+ to deal with, it is low current, so only a small, easily hidden, 1A switch is needed and it will shut down the fuel pump, the injectors, one of the powers for the ECU/ECM and power for a few engine sensors.
94
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Forget the fuel pump power lead, it is too easy to bypass.
A more effective way is to install a kill switch on the ground to the PGM-FI Main Relay, [ground for injector relays coil] it is a ground so no 12V+ to deal with, it is low current, so only a small, easily hidden, 1A switch is needed and it will shut down the fuel pump, the injectors, one of the powers for the ECU/ECM and power for a few engine sensors.
94</TD></TR></TABLE>That sounds reasonable. I might do that instead. Thanks fcm.
A more effective way is to install a kill switch on the ground to the PGM-FI Main Relay, [ground for injector relays coil] it is a ground so no 12V+ to deal with, it is low current, so only a small, easily hidden, 1A switch is needed and it will shut down the fuel pump, the injectors, one of the powers for the ECU/ECM and power for a few engine sensors.
94</TD></TR></TABLE>That sounds reasonable. I might do that instead. Thanks fcm.
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