I am running stock itr replacement pads right now(wagner/napa) with the sqeeler removed but the sit in there preety loose and rattle around.

Yes I have 1200.00 calipers with 3.00 dollar pads, lol. What are you guys doing for pads and do they fit any tighter?
Thanks!

 

Aren't you supposed to use S2000 pads?

 

EBC Greens for street use with the scraper removed.

And I have a set of Cobalt GT Sports for future track use.

No sense in running noisy, ultra dusty pads when you have expensive calipers/wheels on the street.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlueIntegraBoy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Aren't you supposed to use S2000 pads?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I dont think so, but that could explain somethings lol.

I thought the s2000 pad was even shorter (more play)

 

cobalt gt sports and and old set of colbalt spec vr for the track. they are both stock itr fitment pads.

 

Cobalt Spec VRs for ITR

You would only run S2000 pads if you were running Spoon Monoblocks (custom setup), I assume you're running Spoon Twinblocks (for use w/ stock rotors).

 

yes mine are twinblocks, are the cobalts kinda loose in the caliper?

 

Using Endless CCR.

Why would you upgrade your caliper to Spoon and keep stock pads? Will that improve stopping power?

 

Monoblocks = S2K Pads, Rotors, and wheesl 16 inches and up.

Twins = Normal pads, rotor, and most any rim (spacers may be required).

I run Hawk HPS for street use. They dont dust or squeek. Some people (nsxtasy) said his Haek HP+ don't squeek and dusting isn't that but, but even more people said they did, so I went with the HPS'.


Modified by Doostur at 11:22 PM 3/22/2008

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by beat &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Why would you upgrade your caliper to Spoon and keep stock pads? Will that improve stopping power?</TD></TR></TABLE>

No, it's because some people don't drive like absolute *** faces on public roads (like in the middle of the night in Mong Kok). You don't need the stopping power of an upgraded pad. Stock has already proven to be very effective on the street when driving sensibly even with uprated power levels.

OP: you can mitigate some of the rattling of the pad by bending those metal tabs on the Spoon caliper upwards so they cradle the pad a bit better. The downside I found was they were a touch harder to remove when "hot swapping" at the track. So back to rattle-pads for me

Me = stock pads street, Rams (supposed old J's Racing choice) for track (they were cheap and I had to give back the Endless MA11s I borrowed)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RagingAngel &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


OP: you can mitigate some of the rattling of the pad by bending those metal tabs on the Spoon caliper upwards so they cradle the pad a bit better. </TD></TR></TABLE>

That makes sence to me, Thanks!!

 

I have a set of HP+ and CCX and i was running the HP+ with my spoon caliper on autox/street (too lazy to swap pads...lol), they doesn't squeek real bad but they dust really bad tho...my RPF1 always cover by brake dust...

 

im running Hawk HPS's with my Twinblock's and i too had to remove the shims off the back of the pads to get them to fit..this seems to be a common problem though, so i wouldnt worry..

 

Cobalt XR3s.

 

nothing wrong with running the OEM pads. i'm using them as well along with shaving the squeeler tab and locating another metal backing for the pistons to push against (since OEM only comes with 2 metal backing shims for the 4 pads)

there's a few locally that have that problem as well (the pads 'knocking' around) but that seems to be normal since no pad really sits tight in the twinblock.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RARE_EG2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im running Hawk HPS's with my Twinblock's and i too had to remove the shims off the back of the pads to get them to fit..this seems to be a common problem though, so i wouldnt worry..</TD></TR></TABLE>

How would you rate the stopping with that setup? Any problems with stopping delays like others have claimed with the hawk HPS?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by highroller54 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">IYes I have 1200.00 calipers with 3.00 dollar pads </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Doostur &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How would you rate the stopping with that setup? Any problems with stopping delays like others have claimed with the hawk HPS?</TD></TR></TABLE>

stopping with it is fine for me..the HPS pads are street pads, so thats why i went with them..i havent tracked my car yet, so it hasnt been under heavy braking enough to put it to the test, and if i do track my car, i will swap them out for the HP Plus..but i have driven the car fast and stopped quick when the times came, and it did well for me, no problems

 

i'm running carbotech xp1110's.....if not for those in the car this AM i would have a totalled car....some duechebag pulled right out in front of me from advanced auto without stopping!!! or looking!!!!! grrrrrrrrrrr....morons

 

Project Mu max900, here...way better then any carbotech i have used.