Ok here the situation. I got a 91 SI CRX that I am going to swap a Y8 head on. And as most or you guys know this combo normally ends up make high compression. So I figured to make this motor last as long as possible (it's my D/D) I would get a chipped ps9 (for vtec), a wide-band and maybe turbo-edit so I can properly tune the motor and not have to worry about knocks, detention etc, etc. The problem I am having is figuring out what exactly do I need? I have been "Searching" threw H-T and PGMFI for about 3 hours and my brain is about to blow. Is it just a matter of getting a wide band and use turbo-edit to tune it? I am very new to the hole tuning side of honda's, I'm use to making them lighter and handling better. Is there any suggestions you guys can give? Or maybe tell me what you guys are using? I just want to be able to adjust the AFR's and maps whenever I need (or want) to.

 

It would be easier to use a VAFC and a wideband. I use this current setup on my b16, i richen it up around vtec for a 13.0-13.4 AFR at Wide open throttle. I have a VAFC 2 for sale if you are interested

 

Why not just have the car dyno tuned? I wouldn't want to doing my first ever street tuning with nothing but a wideband on my DD. There are better ways of doing it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gibsanez &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why not just have the car dyno tuned? I wouldn't want to doing my first ever street tuning with nothing but a wideband on my DD. There are better ways of doing it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I was going to have it dyno tuned but do you have to have a wideband for them to get a proper AFR?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civickid03 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It would be easier to use a VAFC and a wideband. I use this current setup on my b16, i richen it up around vtec for a 13.0-13.4 AFR at Wide open throttle. I have a VAFC 2 for sale if you are interested </TD></TR></TABLE>
Was also think about that but does the vafc come with tuning software to see a fuel map or something? Not really looking to have extra attention brought to my interior from a controller also.


Modified by Red_ED8 at 4:56 PM 3/20/2008

 

You can hide it in the glove box.

The VAFC tunes by intercepting the signals from the ECU and reconfigures them before sending them on to the mechanicals. You can adjust VTEC engagement points and fuel trim.

 

So will I have to have a wideband for a shop to dyno tune it?

 

Thats what i would do, I definitely feel a difference running my car slightly richer even without a dyno tune, its proven on n/a cars to yield a few more hp - its not like you are adjusting timing or anything...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civickid03 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thats what i would do, I definitely feel a difference running my car slightly richer even without a dyno tune, its proven on n/a cars to yield a few more hp - its not like you are adjusting timing or anything...</TD></TR></TABLE>

So your butt dyno thinks that adding fuel blindly makes more power? Thanks for the input

Seriously, If you want REAL, RELIABLE power out of a DD N/A car, get it dyno tuned.

 

i believe dyno shops should have there own wide band sensors they place on the car instead of you stock O2 (correct me if im wrong). but if you want to get nto tuning why not just get the tuning kit from moates.com, its around 300 shipped but read, read and read some more. if you think tthat headache is bad then your probably not cut ot for tunning. also, ive read that VAFC's tend to get over ridin eventually by the computer. the computer is smarter then you think, after a while its just going to adjust itself to reset to a factory medium despite the presence of a VAFC .

 

Thanks for the info guys and thanks for the moates site I CRX I, I'm going to check that out.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Red_ED8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So I figured to make this motor last as long as possible (it's my D/D) I would get a chipped ps9 (for vtec), a wide-band and maybe turbo-edit so I can properly tune the motor and not have to worry about knocks, detention etc, etc. The problem I am having is figuring out what exactly do I need? I have been "Searching" threw H-T and PGMFI for about 3 hours and my brain is about to blow. Is it just a matter of getting a wide band and use turbo-edit to tune it? I am very new to the hole tuning side of honda's, I'm use to making them lighter and handling better. Is there any suggestions you guys can give? Or maybe tell me what you guys are using? I just want to be able to adjust the AFR's and maps whenever I need (or want) to. </TD></TR></TABLE>

you can use a ps9, pm6, pr4 or pm7 for vtec with TE (or bre). the ps9 uses the auto lockup solenoid, were the others would use the ac circuit/relay...the only thing is you dont have dual map support.

my opinion:
if you go with TE (or bre) you can use anyone of the dataloggers (ecucontrol, freelog or bre) along with a wideband to help tune fuel maps. you will need either an emulator or a chip burner to do this... i would suggest an emulator so that fuel/timing will be easy to tune on a dyno.

 

So is a emulator loaded onto a laptop or on the actuall ecu?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Red_ED8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So is a emulator loaded onto a laptop or on the actuall ecu?</TD></TR></TABLE>

the emulator takes the place of the chip...and can do "instantaneous" updates to the rom image...through the laptop.

so the emulator would take the place of the chip and if you wanted to do changes, you can plug in the usb into the laptop and connect through TE and save changes while you drive.

look on moates for the ostrich...

hopes that helps in the decision making...

 

Thanks ALOT. Helped more than you know.