i have this prelude with a blown engine. it is a h23a1. I found a cheap h22.
will any h22 fit directly in there?

i searched and found a thread that said basically, yes. things like the ecu will have to be changed. does that mean only a h22 ecu will work? cause i have a few civic p28 ecu floating around...

in the faq, i didnt find a direct answer to this frequently asked question. but there is lots of good info in there.

please explain it to me like im a 9 year old. wire harness mod? A/C mod? alt mod? P/S mod? heater hoses?

and feel free to flame, i understand.

but remember if anyone has ever inquired about tech info about toyota trucks, i answered your question, in a truck forum, cause im a expert in that department

Also, i read in the FAQ about Stock and SH h22 blocks. i see the stock one has less guts on the outside, and the SH is busy with hoses, bolt holes... will one or the other not work for this swap?

ALSO maybe i should start a new thread for this lame question:
i understand the 22 or 23 part means the liter displacment but whats the rest of it mean?
for example the one i have is a H23A1. does the A1 mean non vtech or somthing?


thanks a lot internet wrenchers!

 

To do the swap you'll need your h23a engine harness, h23a fuel rail(if new motor is JDM), any interchangeable parts from the h23 that your h22a needs due to being broken or non-operative...like sensors and such, engine mounts, intermediate shaft, flywheel/clutch/pressure plate. Basically everything you will need will come with the h22, and be on the h23...in order to do a complete swap, apart from the ecu which you have to buy seperately.

The h22's usually come with power steering and alternator...the alternator+a/c belt is wider than the one on the h23a, so your h23a a/c compressor will not work on the h22.

Many people do a timing belt tensioner upgrade, I don't know much about it so you might want to look up that info.

Any OBD-1 VTEC ecu will work if chipped...some won't recognize your knock sensor, some won't recognize your intake's secondaries. Your best bet is to use the P13 VTEC ecu for complete compatibility without chipping/tuning.

For distributor...your h23a harness is set up for h23a distributor and external coil. You can re-use this...or do what I did and shove a 20A fuse in the h23a coil plug(to cross yellow/black wire with yellow wire, blue stays unused) and just use the internal coil h22a distributor...either way works fine.

The only actual modification you'll have to make is for the two plugs on your VTEC solenoid assembly...because your car never had these, it doesn't know what they are. 1 wire for VTEC solenoid, 2 wires for VTEC oil switch...run directly to ECU harness plugs, there's plenty of walkthroughs and tips on this...pretty easy if you know which pin spots to use.

Basically everything is plug and play, and is TONS easier if you have a complete h23a on hand to use for various parts.

Edit: To answer your other questions...

What do you mean stock and sh block? Technically any block without modification is stock. Do you mean VTEC block and Non-VTEC block? I'm not sure there's any compatibility differences...but you might want to get that answered from someone more experienced with bottom ends than I am.

H = series of motor, 2.2 = 2.2 liters, a# is pretty much the sub-series...usually tells you what market it's from...USDM, EDM, JDM. There's also some changes between sub-series of the same motor...like h22a and h22a1(I believe usdm is a1, can't remember) have some differences but are essentially the same motor.




Modified by socialistic at 2:24 AM 3/20/2008

 

An SH block is made to mate with an SH tranny which has ATTS. Note that the 220 hp type-s s lude in Japan has ATTS too. You cannot match that engine with a regular H or F series transmission. If you just buy the 200 hp H22A it will bolt up to your H23 tranny just fine. The only difference is your tranny has slightly taller gears but I like it.

Socialistic is right, cannibalize your H23 for parts. Especially the manual tensioner. You can still use your ac pump with either alternator though. Just use an h23 belt that is one rib narrower. Realize that the main difference between the H22 and H23, aside from the stroke and compression ratio, is the head. Really the only thing that you can share between the two heads is the dizzy.

As a side note if you happen to have a '96 prelude then it is just a little more involve but perfectly doable if you prepare beforehand.

 

thanks for the info!!