b20 V-tec Stats
Ummm . . .
You do realize that there are no official numbers for an engine that was never offered from the factory, right?
What you get on the dyno is what it is, and that will depend on a lot of factors, including but not limited to the pistons, head, bolt-ons, and fuel injection tune being used.
You do realize that there are no official numbers for an engine that was never offered from the factory, right?
What you get on the dyno is what it is, and that will depend on a lot of factors, including but not limited to the pistons, head, bolt-ons, and fuel injection tune being used.
u mean stock b20v???? well im gonna do what others wont and throw out ballpark numbers
B20Z BLOCK/B16 OR GSR HEAD = ABOUT 170WHP AND ABOUT 140WTQ
B20B BLOCK/B16 OR GSR HEAD = ABOUT 160WHP AND ABOUT 140WTQ
with quality bolt-ons ofcoarse and 2.5 in. piping u can get a few more horses out of it
Modified by Midori Green at 10:32 PM 3/17/2008
B20Z BLOCK/B16 OR GSR HEAD = ABOUT 170WHP AND ABOUT 140WTQ
B20B BLOCK/B16 OR GSR HEAD = ABOUT 160WHP AND ABOUT 140WTQ
with quality bolt-ons ofcoarse and 2.5 in. piping u can get a few more horses out of it
Modified by Midori Green at 10:32 PM 3/17/2008
Please explain to me what a "bone stock" B20-VTEC is.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Coolero »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">cuz i heard it would be 180hp bone stock
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I laughed.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Coolero »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">cuz i heard it would be 180hp bone stock
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I laughed.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Coolero »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no bult on's stock everything</TD></TR></TABLE>
It's not "stock" and never will be. Nor should you slap one together "stock" either. Using the B20 rod bolts and any stock ECU program is just pointless.
There are way too many variables. As I said before,
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Targa250R »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What you get on the dyno is what it is, and that will depend on a lot of factors, including but not limited to the pistons, head, bolt-ons, and fuel injection tune being used.</TD></TR></TABLE>
This isn't the place for bench racing. If you want to find out, build one and dyno it.
Otherwise, look through the All Motor forum dyno thread: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1583606 or search in Hybrid to get an idea of what others are getting out of their builds.
It's not "stock" and never will be. Nor should you slap one together "stock" either. Using the B20 rod bolts and any stock ECU program is just pointless.
There are way too many variables. As I said before,
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Targa250R »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What you get on the dyno is what it is, and that will depend on a lot of factors, including but not limited to the pistons, head, bolt-ons, and fuel injection tune being used.</TD></TR></TABLE>
This isn't the place for bench racing. If you want to find out, build one and dyno it.
Otherwise, look through the All Motor forum dyno thread: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1583606 or search in Hybrid to get an idea of what others are getting out of their builds.
Trending Topics
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Targa250R »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
It's not "stock" and never will be. Nor should you slap one together "stock" either. Using the B20 rod bolts and any stock ECU program is just pointless.
There are way too many variables. As I said before,
This isn't the place for bench racing. If you want to find out, build one and dyno it.
Otherwise, look through the All Motor forum dyno thread: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1583606 or search in Hybrid to get an idea of what others are getting out of their builds.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i have a stock b20z with gsr trans drove it for a about a year and now threw on a b16 head... im running a hondata s300 and the car is a 13 second car with bolt ons
It's not "stock" and never will be. Nor should you slap one together "stock" either. Using the B20 rod bolts and any stock ECU program is just pointless.
There are way too many variables. As I said before,
This isn't the place for bench racing. If you want to find out, build one and dyno it.
Otherwise, look through the All Motor forum dyno thread: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1583606 or search in Hybrid to get an idea of what others are getting out of their builds.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i have a stock b20z with gsr trans drove it for a about a year and now threw on a b16 head... im running a hondata s300 and the car is a 13 second car with bolt ons
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Midori Green »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have a stock b20z with gsr trans drove it for a about a year and now threw on a b16 head... im running a hondata s300 and the car is a 13 second car with bolt ons</TD></TR></TABLE>
Have fun spinning rod bearings.
Have fun spinning rod bearings.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Targa250R »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Have fun spinning rod bearings.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
im still waiting for that moment... its been 2 years with a 7k redline dont look like its goin anytime soon
Have fun spinning rod bearings.
</TD></TR></TABLE>im still waiting for that moment... its been 2 years with a 7k redline dont look like its goin anytime soon
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Midori Green »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im still waiting for that moment... its been 2 years with a 7k redline dont look like its goin anytime soon
</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you're only revving to 7000, then you will likely never have a problem. The stock rod bolts can handle that.
But I personally don't see a point in building a B20-VTEC to only rev it to 7000.
</TD></TR></TABLE>If you're only revving to 7000, then you will likely never have a problem. The stock rod bolts can handle that.
But I personally don't see a point in building a B20-VTEC to only rev it to 7000.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Targa250R »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
If you're only revving to 7000, then you will likely never have a problem. The stock rod bolts can handle that.
But I personally don't see a point in building a B20-VTEC to only rev it to 7000.</TD></TR></TABLE>
well this is on my daily driver and this motor makes great power at low rpm's so im not crazy about revving high... trust that if i had a daily driver my b20vtec woulda been built like you said but dont say that a stock b20v wont hold up... it all depends on your approach (i even bring my car to the track for some fun runs every once in a while)
If you're only revving to 7000, then you will likely never have a problem. The stock rod bolts can handle that.
But I personally don't see a point in building a B20-VTEC to only rev it to 7000.</TD></TR></TABLE>
well this is on my daily driver and this motor makes great power at low rpm's so im not crazy about revving high... trust that if i had a daily driver my b20vtec woulda been built like you said but dont say that a stock b20v wont hold up... it all depends on your approach (i even bring my car to the track for some fun runs every once in a while)
thats funny i run stock ones along with the homies up to 8400 and no problems and mine is 3 years strong build em right and youll get good results and mid 13's are good for bone stock bottom ends
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by serio_ENDLESS »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thats funny i run stock ones along with the homies up to 8400 and no problems and mine is 3 years strong build em right and youll get good results and mid 13's are good for bone stock bottom ends</TD></TR></TABLE>
Good luck with that.
I've never seen a B18A/B or B20B/Z bottom end with stock rod bolts last more than 20,000 miles revving to 8000+ without spinning rod bearings. No amount of "build em right" is going to keep the dinky stock rod bolts from stretching under repeated high-RPM stress.
Good luck with that.
I've never seen a B18A/B or B20B/Z bottom end with stock rod bolts last more than 20,000 miles revving to 8000+ without spinning rod bearings. No amount of "build em right" is going to keep the dinky stock rod bolts from stretching under repeated high-RPM stress.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Targa250R »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Good luck with that.
I've never seen a B18A/B or B20B/Z bottom end with stock rod bolts last more than 20,000 miles revving to 8000+ without spinning rod bearings. No amount of "build em right" is going to keep the dinky stock rod bolts from stretching under repeated high-RPM stress.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yea i wouldnt rev to 8k now i believe thats just pushing it
Good luck with that.
I've never seen a B18A/B or B20B/Z bottom end with stock rod bolts last more than 20,000 miles revving to 8000+ without spinning rod bearings. No amount of "build em right" is going to keep the dinky stock rod bolts from stretching under repeated high-RPM stress.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yea i wouldnt rev to 8k now i believe thats just pushing it
i have a stock b20z with gsr trans drove it for a about a year and now threw on a b16 head... im running a hondata s300 and the car is a 13 second car with bolt ons
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Charltons_Trix »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
what kinda' car is it in, and is it gutted?</TD></TR></TABLE>
its in a ek sedan and its somewhat gutted only the back seats and whole trunk is gutted nothing serious.. why do you ask?
what kinda' car is it in, and is it gutted?</TD></TR></TABLE>
its in a ek sedan and its somewhat gutted only the back seats and whole trunk is gutted nothing serious.. why do you ask?
Last time i checked, B20's didnt come "stock" with VTEC, lol.
For future reference, whats the average lifespan on a B20/VTEC build, leaving the bottom end stock? Last i checked, b20 internals arent fond of the high rev's of VTEC.
For future reference, whats the average lifespan on a B20/VTEC build, leaving the bottom end stock? Last i checked, b20 internals arent fond of the high rev's of VTEC.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Targa250R »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I've never seen a B18A/B or B20B/Z bottom end with stock rod bolts last more than 20,000 miles revving to 8000+ without spinning rod bearings. No amount of "build em right" is going to keep the dinky stock rod bolts from stretching under repeated high-RPM stress.</TD></TR></TABLE>
wtf are you serious? i've seen a handful with no problems.. yes spinning a bearing does happen more with an LS or B20 bottom end than a b16 or gsr.. but its not like if you rev it over 8k it will instantly blow up... i've driven a b20vtec and revved it to 9k+ (built head) for fun.. my friend drove it for 2 years, still no problems to this day..
I've never seen a B18A/B or B20B/Z bottom end with stock rod bolts last more than 20,000 miles revving to 8000+ without spinning rod bearings. No amount of "build em right" is going to keep the dinky stock rod bolts from stretching under repeated high-RPM stress.</TD></TR></TABLE>
wtf are you serious? i've seen a handful with no problems.. yes spinning a bearing does happen more with an LS or B20 bottom end than a b16 or gsr.. but its not like if you rev it over 8k it will instantly blow up... i've driven a b20vtec and revved it to 9k+ (built head) for fun.. my friend drove it for 2 years, still no problems to this day..
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Targa250R »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Have fun spinning rod bearings.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Would you recommend replacing rod bearings and girdles for a safe 9000rpm B20/Vtec? Or are the rods weak in there motors as well?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Midori Green »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">u mean stock b20v???? well im gonna do what others wont and throw out ballpark numbers
B20Z BLOCK/B16 OR GSR HEAD = ABOUT 170WHP AND ABOUT 140WTQ
B20B BLOCK/B16 OR GSR HEAD = ABOUT 160WHP AND ABOUT 140WTQ
with quality bolt-ons ofcoarse and 2.5 in. piping u can get a few more horses out of it
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Just wondering, what exactly are the differences other than the P8R head in the B20Z in comparison to the B20B? I was told the headgasket was the only thing increasing the compression? Are the pistons actually different?
As for my B20 build, I'm also had the redline set to 7,200. I will be daily driving it, and have a B17 head (aka B16) with a soon-to-be port and polish and I/H/E
Have fun spinning rod bearings.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Would you recommend replacing rod bearings and girdles for a safe 9000rpm B20/Vtec? Or are the rods weak in there motors as well?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Midori Green »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">u mean stock b20v???? well im gonna do what others wont and throw out ballpark numbers
B20Z BLOCK/B16 OR GSR HEAD = ABOUT 170WHP AND ABOUT 140WTQ
B20B BLOCK/B16 OR GSR HEAD = ABOUT 160WHP AND ABOUT 140WTQ
with quality bolt-ons ofcoarse and 2.5 in. piping u can get a few more horses out of it
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Just wondering, what exactly are the differences other than the P8R head in the B20Z in comparison to the B20B? I was told the headgasket was the only thing increasing the compression? Are the pistons actually different?
As for my B20 build, I'm also had the redline set to 7,200. I will be daily driving it, and have a B17 head (aka B16) with a soon-to-be port and polish and I/H/E
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Midori Green »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
its in a ek sedan and its somewhat gutted only the back seats and whole trunk is gutted nothing serious.. why do you ask?</TD></TR></TABLE>
just curious, i have a ek hatch that i' struggling to see what swap i want, and ive been considering b20vtec.. curiosity on track times i guess.
ALSO, what all would one need to turn a b20 with b16 head to around 9grand without problems, and trap low 13's in the quarter?
Modified by Charltons_Trix at 1:24 PM 3/19/2008
its in a ek sedan and its somewhat gutted only the back seats and whole trunk is gutted nothing serious.. why do you ask?</TD></TR></TABLE>
just curious, i have a ek hatch that i' struggling to see what swap i want, and ive been considering b20vtec.. curiosity on track times i guess.
ALSO, what all would one need to turn a b20 with b16 head to around 9grand without problems, and trap low 13's in the quarter?
Modified by Charltons_Trix at 1:24 PM 3/19/2008
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Charltons_Trix »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
just curious, i have a ek hatch that i' struggling to see what swap i want, and ive been considering b20vtec.. curiosity on track times i guess.
ALSO, what all would one need to turn a b20 with b16 head to around 9grand without problems, and trap low 13's in the quarter?
Modified by Charltons_Trix at 1:24 PM 3/19/2008</TD></TR></TABLE>
it is very easy... all u need is a mild all motor build that last stock b20v that i was mentioning was my last setup.. my new b20vtec setup the block has 84.5mm rs pistons, eagle ls rods, arp rod bolts, and new oem bearings thats it!! and my head consist of cams, springs and retainers and new valve and cam seals thats it.... im running 13 flat in an ek sedan!! and yes the car is my daily driver its about 12:1 compression so all i gotta use is good gas and im good i just beat the crap out of it and it will never go with the tune i have and the 9k redline i have
just curious, i have a ek hatch that i' struggling to see what swap i want, and ive been considering b20vtec.. curiosity on track times i guess.
ALSO, what all would one need to turn a b20 with b16 head to around 9grand without problems, and trap low 13's in the quarter?
Modified by Charltons_Trix at 1:24 PM 3/19/2008</TD></TR></TABLE>
it is very easy... all u need is a mild all motor build that last stock b20v that i was mentioning was my last setup.. my new b20vtec setup the block has 84.5mm rs pistons, eagle ls rods, arp rod bolts, and new oem bearings thats it!! and my head consist of cams, springs and retainers and new valve and cam seals thats it.... im running 13 flat in an ek sedan!! and yes the car is my daily driver its about 12:1 compression so all i gotta use is good gas and im good i just beat the crap out of it and it will never go with the tune i have and the 9k redline i have
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Fresh’86 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Just wondering, what exactly are the differences other than the P8R head in the B20Z in comparison to the B20B? I was told the headgasket was the only thing increasing the compression? Are the pistons actually different?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
The P8R came on only select models of B20 with the advantage being slightly larger valves. Not all b20Z's came with that head, mine has the P75 head. The B20Z, or jdm spec 1999-2000 model B20 had the higher compression pistons giving a stock hp rating of 146hp, and a healthier, higher reving powerband over the older lower compression B20B models.
Just wondering, what exactly are the differences other than the P8R head in the B20Z in comparison to the B20B? I was told the headgasket was the only thing increasing the compression? Are the pistons actually different?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
The P8R came on only select models of B20 with the advantage being slightly larger valves. Not all b20Z's came with that head, mine has the P75 head. The B20Z, or jdm spec 1999-2000 model B20 had the higher compression pistons giving a stock hp rating of 146hp, and a healthier, higher reving powerband over the older lower compression B20B models.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
crashtest Sonny
Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
19
May 14, 2003 12:03 PM





