Write up: Stainless Brake line swap. 56k not friendly
i finally got some motivation and found the time to replace the old and torn oem brake lines. i bought some russel stainless brake lines for my eg hatch dx chassis with rear drum brake. russel stainless brake lines are made by edelbrock company.so there is no doubts in its quality
the brake lines does come with clip and bracket for perfect oem fitting

i used my friend's hydro car lift at his work shop cause i am too weak to use the jack and crawl under the car

and here is the procedure to bleed the brake system

use only clean DOT3 or DOT4 brake fluid
make sure no dirt or other foreign matter is allowed to contaminate the brake fluid
do not mix different brands of brake fluid as they may not be compatible.
do not spill brake fluid on the car, it may damage the paint, if brake fluid does contact the paint, wash it off immediately with water
1. disconnect the brake hose from the brake pipe using a 10 mm flare nut wrench.
2. remove and discard the brake hose clip from the brake hose.
3. remove the banjo bolt and disconnect the brake hose from caliper.

4. install a new brake hose clip on the brake hose.
5 connect the brake pipe to the brake hose with 11 lb-ft.
6. connect brake hose to the caliper
7. install the brake hose on the knuckle and damper mounting clamp.
8. after installing the brake hose, check the hose and line joints for leaks, and tigten if necessary.



here is front & rear brake lines comparison. oem VS Russel/edelbrock


rear brake line


to refill brake fluid,refer to third picture (bleeding), i use castrol GT LMA synthetic brake fluid.
the link to the castrol brake fluid.
http://www.castrol.com/castrol...24043

i test drove it for 20 miles, highway/ local, the pedal feedback is firmer and stiffer, more precise, maybe because i replace the brembo front disc and pads a day earlier than i did the stalinless brake line job.
here is the link to front brake disc write up.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2250936
the brake lines does come with clip and bracket for perfect oem fitting

i used my friend's hydro car lift at his work shop cause i am too weak to use the jack and crawl under the car

and here is the procedure to bleed the brake system

use only clean DOT3 or DOT4 brake fluid
make sure no dirt or other foreign matter is allowed to contaminate the brake fluid
do not mix different brands of brake fluid as they may not be compatible.
do not spill brake fluid on the car, it may damage the paint, if brake fluid does contact the paint, wash it off immediately with water
1. disconnect the brake hose from the brake pipe using a 10 mm flare nut wrench.
2. remove and discard the brake hose clip from the brake hose.
3. remove the banjo bolt and disconnect the brake hose from caliper.

4. install a new brake hose clip on the brake hose.
5 connect the brake pipe to the brake hose with 11 lb-ft.
6. connect brake hose to the caliper
7. install the brake hose on the knuckle and damper mounting clamp.
8. after installing the brake hose, check the hose and line joints for leaks, and tigten if necessary.



here is front & rear brake lines comparison. oem VS Russel/edelbrock


rear brake line


to refill brake fluid,refer to third picture (bleeding), i use castrol GT LMA synthetic brake fluid.
the link to the castrol brake fluid.
http://www.castrol.com/castrol...24043

i test drove it for 20 miles, highway/ local, the pedal feedback is firmer and stiffer, more precise, maybe because i replace the brembo front disc and pads a day earlier than i did the stalinless brake line job.
here is the link to front brake disc write up.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2250936
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlueIntegraBoy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Nice writeup
</TD></TR></TABLE>
thanks man
</TD></TR></TABLE>thanks man
thanks.. i am gonna do this on my crx..
so basically i can just let all the fluid run out of the nipples..
replace the hoses, then tighten nipples, fill with fluid then do the bleed process
it is ok to let the cylinder/brake system go dry?
so basically i can just let all the fluid run out of the nipples..
replace the hoses, then tighten nipples, fill with fluid then do the bleed process
it is ok to let the cylinder/brake system go dry?
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