SO as some of you may have already seen , i blew up my motor this week on the dyno , it needs pistons , apparently the got crushed , so my sleeves are goin .25 over and replace the pistons

my question is for reliability

should i put some low comp. pistons in and get some boost goin thru her? i wouldnt mind 450 all day long , on low boost

my current setup is :
c5 sleeved to 84mm
eagle rods and crank
wiseco pistons ( they were in there )
full rev valvetrain ,
hondata s300
theres a whole load more , but everything else is irrevalant for this topic.

i figure i can get a turbo kit , and throw some low comp pistons in , and make some nice power ,

my other choice is to get new HIGH comp pistons , and make a little bit more power than i already am, but i dont think im gonna take a risk of spraying it again . so if i did go all motor , i prob wont be as happy as i was when i thought i would have aroound 400 on the bottle ,

if anyone has any input id really appreciate it ,

and if you have a hookup/commection to get turbo parts cheap id appreciate that also , or if you have any old stuff your not in need of anymore ( Rizen , Doostur )

also i spoke with full race and they have a 3 month turn around time on everything now , so id have to wait , or use something else ,

id like to get the full race pro am stage 3 or 4 , i dont know if i want the " GT" versions of the kit , being that they contain ball bearing turbos , they are expensive , and i think id like it to spool a little later ( around 4,200RPM) rather than very early like the GT ones do .


if anyone has any input , comments , or anything to say , share your thoughts ,
im in a BIG crossroad here , and i dont know what to do


Let me know what you guys think

thanks in advance

---------------------JAred

 

Turboing an ITR to me is sacreliges.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jackson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Turboing an ITR to me is sacreliges.</TD></TR></TABLE>

x2

 

Its really up to you jared.

But does your budget allow you to turbo the car, cause your R is pretty much setup for N/A already and it will be much cheaper to go that route. Throw in some new pistons, replace any bearings if needed and get that bitch tuned.

IMO, though i would get your motor running again and sell it. Use that money to recoup some of the expenses you've had from blowing your motors and drop a stock motor in your caR. If anything just do a few simple upgrades and get heR tuned.

Then sit-back relax, enjoy the reliability, and have fun driving your car again for an extended period of time. Just my $.02 though.

Ali

 

I'd probably leave it N/A. Not to say that you can't have a fun, reliable turbo'd car but they do have their problems and may be an inconvenience to drive daily. Depends on what you want I guess. Since your motor had already been built previously, you may not get the satisfaction you are looking for by just rebuilding it again for a nice N/A set-up. If 450whp is the goal then boost away.

PS: I have a PWR frontmount IC and SLS shorty manifold w/ T25 flange for sale

 

crankcase pressure on the B18C5 is your major enemy when considering FI

if you go that route -- plan carefully and don't cut corners

build it like brick shithouse

 

its an R. leave it all motor. i have had a 325whp turbo honda back in the day, and the one i have now, the all motor is more fun in my opinion. just less worries, and you dont feel so bad when you drive it hard. no boost issues, nothing, tune it once and shell be good. do a 4.7 final you will love it trust me...

 

Only stupid homosexual owners have boosted Type R's.

Yes, I mean it seriously, if anyone has a problem then PM me and we can discuss it.

Jared, I've seen you lately complaining about your car breaking because of x, then y, then z. The simple concept is, once you start moding your car the chances of stuff breaking increases. Your car is a daily driver, you need a reliable car. And don't tell me you're going to get a daily, get one first and I'll believe you. N/A setups are nativly more reliable then boosted setups because they do not add any parts to your engine, they just replace it. With boost you add on a lot of other devices, the more stuff you have...The more stuff that can break. And whether you realize it or not, almost everything that could of gone wrong with your N/A setups did. Imagine a boosted setup... The money that you spend on rebuilding your engines could be spent on tracking your car, a much needed paintjob, and other unrelated stuff in your life I'm sure. Look at the big picture, and not just tomorrow. As simple as that.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 00-501itrspec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
my question is for reliability
i wouldnt mind 450 all day long , </TD></TR></TABLE>

Bluntly put... If you are going to make 450 "all day" out of a car that puts out ~180 WHP from the factory, you can lower your reliability substantially.


Just sharing my thoughts with you, don't take it offensive if you thought any of it was.



Modified by neo_ at 8:15 PM 3/17/2008

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mx621 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its an R. leave it all motor. i have had a 325whp turbo honda back in the day, and the one i have now, the all motor is more fun in my opinion. just less worries, and you dont feel so bad when you drive it hard. no boost issues, nothing, tune it once and shell be good. do a 4.7 final you will love it trust me...</TD></TR></TABLE>
X 1000, my old turbo (GSR) CRX was fast as hell, but no where near as fun as my R right now, no where...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Big Phat R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">crankcase pressure on the B18C5 is your major enemy when considering FI</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by neo_ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">N/A setups are nativly more reliable then boosted setups because they do not add any parts to your engine, they just replace it. With boost you add on a lot of other devices, the more stuff you have...The more stuff that can break.</TD></TR></TABLE>

combined with the money it would take to

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Big Phat R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">build it like brick shithouse</TD></TR></TABLE>

made me abandon ship and stay N/A.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jackson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Turboing an ITR to me is sacreliges.</TD></TR></TABLE>
x abillionty.

 

Like I already told you Jared, NA all day.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by neo_ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">. With boost you add on a lot of other devices, the more stuff you have...The more stuff that can break. And whether you realize it or not, almost everything that could of gone wrong with your N/A setups did.

Modified by neo_ at 8:15 PM 3/17/2008</TD></TR></TABLE>

i dont take any offense , cept the homosexual part , cuz im prob going to boost it ,


anyways i know you love me , so ill take it from you

and i always agreed and still do to the statement above , there is more **** to go wrong , alot more ,

and everything always went wrong on my all motor setups; possibly that they were pushed to the limit .... alot .
i think im going to rebuild with new bearings , some low comp pistons and a 35R .

with that i COULD , and i stress could have upwards of 700 hp .

i would run around 300-360 realistically daily .
maybe even lower if wastegate spring allows me to .
it would be reliable in the way that it would be fully reinforced for anything , and its not really THAT much stress on anything to run 300 . ( built motor)

with all motor and/or nitrous , i am pushing the car to its max for what it is able to do ,

i feel that with boost i will need to relearn how to drive heR , and i think i may need some of that , not that im bored , but its something different that what ive had for the past 5 years .

im still debating what im going to do ,

i appreciate all your input everyone ,

and dont forget , i dont keep any setup in there for THAT long anyway, i really want a K. thats next , i just dont have the cash for it rite now .

 

Maybe I should try some reverse physiology...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by neo_ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Maybe I should try some reverse physiology... </TD></TR></TABLE>

what you dont love me ?

 

00-501itrspec, do it up. Don't cut any corners, and you'll be fine. Set your power goals, budget, and the rest will fall right into place.

Coming in here and saying you wanna boost is like drenching yourself in gas and lighting a match.

 

b18c5 all motor is fun!!! no need for turbo like the posts say above its already made for N/A power

 

&lt;happy with stock/boltons under 200hp.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jackson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Turboing an ITR to me is sacreliges.</TD></TR></TABLE>

QFT

forced induction =

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tartje &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

forced induction = </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jackson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Turboing an ITR to me is sacreliges.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Agreed. I think you need a new tuner...

 

haters!

if I didnt have to worry about NYS emissions and registrations, I would be staying turbo. but Id probably go with a smaller turbo and less power.

if its mainly a street car, I wouldnt build it for high HP. high HP on the street is useless. I would probably shoot for 350-400 max. once I crossed that 400whp barrier, it was tire smoke through 4th gear on the street and completely useless, even with drag radials. fun, but old after awhile. you will also need to plan for sufficient cooling. Id probably go with an Inline Pro log mani so I could squeeze a full size radiator in there. half size didnt work out too well for me on the street.

just be ready to spend a lot of money to do it right. if you cut corners, you are gonna have headache after headache and it will ruin the fun.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Doostur &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">00-501itrspec, do it up. Don't cut any corners, and you'll be fine. Set your power goals, budget, and the rest will fall right into place.

Coming in here and saying you wanna boost is like drenching yourself in gas and lighting a match.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ok, he says he doesn't have the money for a K motor, which means he currently doesn't have the money to build what he's looking for without cutting corners. You're talking out of your *** like usual...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JjuuN R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Ok, he says he doesn't have the money for a K motor, which means he currently doesn't have the money to build what he's looking for without cutting corners. You're talking out of your *** like usual... </TD></TR></TABLE>

Direct from our PM conversation 12 hours earlier:

(10:09 PM 3/17/2008) 00-501itrspec: , yes its daily , funds are basically not a problem

Are you that insecure about yourself that you must flame and put people down on a daily basis? People know you as the desgruntled honda-techer. Again it accomplishes nothing because anything you say means or changes nothing. I expect some retarded flamatory reply from you but don't expect a reply from me. I'll just sit here and laugh instead.

00-501itrspec, hit me up via PM/AIM whenever.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 00-501itrspec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
also i spoke with full race and they have a 3 month turn around time on everything now , so id have to wait , or use something else ,

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Is that what they told you? I've been waiting 6 months for my kit, with no actual date being promised to receive it in the future, and when I wanted to return the kit they sent (wrong kit), and get a refund, they told me I would have to pay like 25% re-stocking fee. You know what 25% of $10,000 is? I MIGHT get my kit next week, and I'm willing to bet the order comes missing parts. They were supposed to ship me a dump tube with (2) vaccuum blocks...what do I get? I get 2 dumptubes, with ONE vband clamp, and NO vaccuum block, after they already messed up a almost $10k order.

Also making 400 on nitrous? right..... which is probably why your motor is blown. 450 on LOW BOOST? what boost do you plan on running? You do know that with turbo, even the most couragous tuner won't tune much past 450 on pump, and MAYBE 500 on pump at like 17 psi on a turbo like the gt35r.

450 for the street is almost useless, especially without a boost by gear or rpm boost controller or ECU tuning program like Neptune, which has that function. You'd be better off running a 8lb spring so you could street with like 325 whp and then turn it up if needed.

Lastly, not being a smartass, but if you do decide to boost or go full-race route, be looking to spend about $15,000 for a PROPERLY built motor. I see money might be a little tighter than that, so just throwing it out there.

It sounds to me like your best bet is to stay all-motor to be honest. Throw some high comp pistons in there and be on your way to like 240 whp N/A....that would be a super fun car

EDIT: and you will not hit 700whp with a 35r. It sounds like you need to do a bit more research before you jump one way or the other. I think there a lot of variables you haven't thought of when boosting...Here is a list of turbo parts, that trust me the price adds up on.:

Rebuild your motor...$1,000-3,000?

Full-Race kit $4,500

GM 3-bar Map Sensor (or 4-bar plug and play Omnipower map) $80-185
Competition Stage 5 clutch w/ upgraded pressure plate $420
Ultralightweight 7 lb Flywheel $220 shipped
RPM Services 72mm TB (w/o sensors) $285
Apexi AVC-R Boost Controller $500
Plug Wires $60
Greddy Timing Belt $125
Edelbrock Intake Manifold $500
AEM Fuel Rail $140
Aeromotive A1000 FPR $165
Hasport Motor Mounts $350
RC 1000cc Injectors Peak and Hold $350
Crank?
Cams? $600 (ITR)
Air filter $20
Catch Can (T1 is the best) $600
Oil restrictor $20
Gaskets $120 is you get good ones (Outlaw engineering)
Gauges $500-700
Portmatching $100
Resistor box for 1000cc injectors $20-300 ($20 for Honda, $300 AEM)
Headgasket $60
Studs (ARP Main, Head studs, ARP clutch and FW bolts) $250
Tuning! $500
Misc Welding, wheels and tires to get power to ground $1,000

To be honest, this is probably a conservative list and your already at like $12,000.....you have that kind of money to drop on a PROPERLY built turbo car? Sure you could do it for less without a full-race kit and cheaper parts than I listed, but I can gaurantee you that turbo builds are already unreliable enough without using shotty parts.


Modified by totsie7944 at 10:25 AM 3/18/2008