having issues with my dream car
Alright now. I have a D15b2 with a mpfi swap I purchased a pm6 stock ecu and an si distributor. I'm getting a code 1 on my ecu. I have replaced the o2 sensor and reset the ecu. When I reset it I don't have any blinks at all except for the usual start up then nothing. But when I drive for about 5-10 mins to get to warm my cel comes on and the code 1 blinks again. At least I believe its code 1 it goes _pause_pause_pause_pause_pause_pause_pause. over and over I racking my brain trying to figure this out is someone can help I would be very appreciative. Thanks
one quick question I purchased an 02 sensor for a dx. My question is that is there any differences in o2 sensors between the 1.5 and the 1.6? Do I need to pick up an si o2 sensor to get rid of this code?
Could be a code 10 if you aren't familiar with reading the CEL's.
It couldn't hurt to try a known good IAT, as they are fairly cheap. BTW, code 10 is for IAT
Giver a shot!
It couldn't hurt to try a known good IAT, as they are fairly cheap. BTW, code 10 is for IAT
Giver a shot!
its definitely not a code 10 on the pm6 ecu it would be ten short flashes. instead I'm getting one short repeated over and over again with a pause in between. I have spoke with a honda tech and he thinks it could be my fuel pressure regulator. thats the reason my car is running very rich once the check engine light comes on.
In the archives under my name (rustbucketrex) is an explanation of a similar problem with code 4 and code 1. I don't know how to link it and I don't want to retype it. Just start with the white distributor wires first. Good luck.
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I'll check my wiring. don't think it could be though I paid to have someone build me a wiring harness from a performance shop. Also the car doesn't kick a cel until its warm and cruising. I'm gonna try to change my fuel pressure regulator to an adjustable to replace the oem and add a pressure gauge. I spoke with a honda tech mechanic and he was saying that if I'm not getting enough fuel it will kick an o2 sensor code and run the car rich to compensate for the lack of fuel. I've got a list of things to check but I believe the wiring is definitely correct because the guy that built my harness does it for a living. But will definitely check it all over again just to be certain. Also I have a set of cheap apc seats with the universal sliders is there a way that I can take the brackets off of my oem seats and use them to mount my seats?
Okay checked my wiring I had a loose ground wire. Reconnected wire and adjusted idle to normal now my stutter is worse and I'm getting a code 1 and a code 14 which is the eacv/iacv. I have pulled my eacv off it looks clean for the most part it gets very hot though not sure if that should happen. Anyway if someone could help that would be great.
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