92 Accord no spark
Driving my 92 accord down the interstate and it just shuts off. cranks but no fire.
I'm not getting any spark.
I replaced the coil, which is getting power.
Tried another ECU.
Fuel pump does turn on.
Took off cap, dis. is turning.
Whats next?!?!?
I'm not getting any spark.
I replaced the coil, which is getting power.
Tried another ECU.
Fuel pump does turn on.
Took off cap, dis. is turning.
Whats next?!?!?
Is the check engine light coming on? Are there any stored trouble codes? Is the igniter switching the coil? Is the ecu sending a signal to the igniter?
There are no stored codes. By that, I am meaning the check engine light does not stay on.
I don't work on Honda's very much. How do you check the igniter, and where is it?
The coil has power going to it when the key is on, but none of the other ones pulse when turning it over.
I don't work on Honda's very much. How do you check the igniter, and where is it?
The coil has power going to it when the key is on, but none of the other ones pulse when turning it over.
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if you have a test light you can do a couple simple checks, Turn on the ignition, get the coil set up so you can watch for spark to ground.
Then with the test light grounded to the block, touch the test light probe to the Blue wire connection of the ignitor,[last wire on the side] the coil should throw a spark.
That blue wire is the wire that the ECU switches the ground on to cause spark.
Okay if that didn't pan out, you can try this method; I've never done this method.
connect a test lite
1 lead to the neg side of the coil the other to any good ground,
have someone crank the engine,
if test lite pulses it is a bad COIL ..
if test lite does NOT pulse it is a bad IGNITER
Then with the test light grounded to the block, touch the test light probe to the Blue wire connection of the ignitor,[last wire on the side] the coil should throw a spark.
That blue wire is the wire that the ECU switches the ground on to cause spark.
Okay if that didn't pan out, you can try this method; I've never done this method.
connect a test lite
1 lead to the neg side of the coil the other to any good ground,
have someone crank the engine,
if test lite pulses it is a bad COIL ..
if test lite does NOT pulse it is a bad IGNITER
Heres the problem I ran into, a mechanic pointed this out to me after the fact.
Over time, the cap on the dizzy doesnt seal properly, over time, moisture builds up in there and eventually just mucks everything up. Now everything may look okay, but the thing is with moisture is, it will eventually dissapate, leaving no trace detectable to the human eye.
Long story short, make sure your cap is sealed properly and tightened, but not too tight, you can even have just a hairline crack which will decrease the life of your entire dizzy by 50% due to residual moisture damage.
Hope this was informational.
Over time, the cap on the dizzy doesnt seal properly, over time, moisture builds up in there and eventually just mucks everything up. Now everything may look okay, but the thing is with moisture is, it will eventually dissapate, leaving no trace detectable to the human eye.
Long story short, make sure your cap is sealed properly and tightened, but not too tight, you can even have just a hairline crack which will decrease the life of your entire dizzy by 50% due to residual moisture damage.
Hope this was informational.
I drove it this morning and the tach stop work after about thirty miles. I parked and turned the headlights off and it works...only when the lights are off. When you turn the lights back on, tach turns off!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Antscoe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You must have a shor somewhere.</TD></TR></TABLE>
More likely a poor ground connection.
More likely a poor ground connection.
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