I searched and didnt find any good results. My gauge cluster and trunsignal lights keep blowing the 15A fuse in the engine bay. (Small lights). I dont know alot about electrical diagnostics, i did wire my motor up when i did my H22 swap but thats about it. All and any help would be appreciated.

My car is a 95 LX coupe non-abs with a JDM H22A.

eric

 

What is the fuse number? #35?

 

I dont see any numbers. I have teh cover right in front of me. The fuse i keep popping is a 15A and its labeled SMALL LIGHT. To the right is the 7.5 amp INTERIOR LIGHT fuse and the 15A ECU fuse bordering the fire wall side. The others bordering are not used I hope this makes sense.

This all happend after i put my new sway bar end links on and took it for a test drive. I went over a small bump and my guage lights went out.. So now I cant see my guages when its dark, since i cant see how fast im going i have to turn my dome light on just to see how fast im going. LOL. ALso i dont have any corner lights. My brake lights, rear turn signals, head lights, and front bumper signals work but the headlight corner signals dont, and my front/rear parking lights dont work.. Im assuming there on the same fuse that keeps blowing.




Modified by Alpinestar03 at 2:08 AM 3/14/2008

 

Check your grounds. For a short term fix, so you can see your dash when it's dark, you can possibly stick a higher fuse in there. See if that holds.

 

Do the following test with a good fuse.

Pry out the Dash Light Brightness Controller and disconnet the 3-P connector from the controller. The connector should have three wires: Black, Red, and Red with black strip (RED/BLK).

Eidt: First do a short curcuit test.
With headlights OFF and ignition switch OFF, use ohm meter test RED/BLK and ground. If reads 0 or low resistance, there is a short curcuit in the system. Otherwise do the following test:

1. The Black wire should be connected to ground all the time.
2. Turn on the headlight, the Red/BLK wire should have battery voltage. If the fuse blows out when the headlights on. You do not need to do the step 3 test.
3. With the headlights on, connect the Red wire to ground, the dash light should be on with full bright.

If you can pass the three tests, the controller is bad. Before getting a new controller, short the Black and Red wire on the connector and you will be able to have dash light while you are ordering a new controller. If you can not pass the 3 steps test, you should have a short wire or a bad switch.

If you do not have a voltage meter, just simply disconnect the controller, and turn on the headlights. If the fuse is still OK, connect the red wire to ground and you should be able to see the dash lights on.



Modified by billyrusa at 9:12 AM 3/14/2008

 

Yea, i just tryed that..I tryed usung a 20 amp fuse instead and blew that and now im also blowing my brake lamp fuse now.. I wouldnt know where to start now..

Any help would be appreciated.

 

What did you read from an Ohm meter by testing the RED/BLK wire of the Connector for the Dash Light Brightness Controller?

 

no, unfortuantly i dont have a multi-meter. i disconnected the switch and it blew a fuse. And i grounded the red wire and it blew a fuse again when i turned it on. Did i do this correctly?

I also put in a higer amp fuse in suggest by tyte-s and it held for a min and then blew out that fuse and the one for my brake lamps.. and now ny brake lamp circuit just keeps popping fuses..

I think im just going to say [freak] it and sell this car.

I dont have ANY money to spend on getting itlooked at.

 

you should never put a bigger fuse in. all fuses are double rated, meaning that the amps flowing through it should never be more than half of what the fuse is rated, just putting a bigger fuse in is just asking for trouble.

 

You certainly have a short curcuit. You will need a multi-meter to diagnose the problem. You can not make the tests just by blowing the fuses.

I am suspecting:
a short curcuit between fuse and gauge assembly, a bad gauge assembly, or a bad switch.

Get a multi-meter, unplug the electrical connectors from gauge assembly, test all the terminals to find the short or bad components.

 

Yea, unfortunately i was advised by tyte-s to put a higher amp fuse in. And now my brake lights are fu*ked too. Im done with this car.

It will be up for sale in a couple minutes. Check it out in the vehicle forsale thread.. $2600. With a set of 98 Alloys

eric

 

VSS wires touching?

 

lol "check grounds". Keep in mind, a short circuit isn't the only thing that will blow a fuse. An overloaded circuit will do the same thing. If you by chance put bulbs in the car that are the wrong resistance excessive current will flow and you can blow fuses.

Also, I have seen faulty bulbs blow fuses. I've seen the filament posts burn down and short together causing fuses to blow.

I have seen wiring problems with stereos blow fuses. Change in a radio can blow fuses.

You may be able to find the problem if you retrace your wiring work in areas related to the systems affected.

Multimeters are really cheap. You can get one for under 20 bucks. Unless you get something fancy, they are all the same.

 

Holy crap! I did not look at the date of the original post! Dude probably never fixed this.