I have a 00 Civic Si with 95k miles. It has full bolt ons and a intake cam. I am on full coilovers set kinda stiff.

Since I got the car its been wheel hopping really bad when shifting into 2nd and 3rd. I checked my motor mounts by pulling my ebrake and slipping the clutch a bit in 1st. The motor didnt move much at all. I did however notice that the lower AC mount (rubber thing) is cracked.. But will this make a difference? It's just rubber and I think it acts more as a shock absorber than a mount. Am I right?

What else can it be? Am I just shifting to fast? Not letting the clutch out properly after shifting? (It only does it when redlining 2nd and 3rd, 4th is fine)

Thanks, all help appreciated.

 

bump

 

lower ac mount is just to prevent ac compressor vibrate too much. and are u running stock motor mounts? cause they are soft, and to make cars quiet at idel, not vibrate too much. u can try to use aftermarket motor mounts such as innovation or hasport. they are very stiff and firm,they will eliminates wheel hop,but the car will vibrate and shake when the car is at idel.

 

Im guessing your refering to the torque mount underneath the driver side frame rail, and yes it is an actual mount that helps keep the motor from moving back and forth

 

i experienced wheel hop in my bone stock ej1, hasport mounts -> no wheel hop

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by H22Ej1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i experienced wheel hop in my bone stock ej1, hasport mounts -&gt; no wheel hop</TD></TR></TABLE>

What gears were you getting it in?

Can anyone confirm that the lower AC bracket makes a difference.. I don't wanna pick one from the junk yard if that's not my prob.

 

back when i had it stock it was typically second and occured much more frequently when i was pulling through a corner

 

Innovative motor mounts will eliminate wheel hop? To that statement, [freak] YOU! (all caps). I have it and still get wheel hop. get your [freak]ing facts straight. The only reason i hate coming here is people giving false info.

 

yeah i have innovative mounts in my b16a3 swapped ej8 and i still get wheel hop....going 1st to 2nd as opposed to 2nd to 3rd in your case.

 

adjust your coilovers

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by edmek4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">adjust your coilovers</TD></TR></TABLE>

How so? Do I make them softer or what?

 

i have a a ej8 with a jdm b20b=torque=wheel hop, with my stock mounts it produced ridicluous amounts of wheel hop, so i went ahead and spent like 360 bucks on a innovative mount set and i would have to say it probably eliminated 90% of my wheel hop at least it really did the trick, and for the vibration at idle its not that bad youll get used to...

 

i get no hop on my s1 cams/intake /exhaust on a 99 GSR in my 92 EG with hasport mounts. but on shitty tires they can bounce a bit if theyre not warmed up yet


edit: idle vibration is insane if you have an interior from another car cause all the bolts and screws eventually rattle loose and drive you mad

 

What size rims do you have?

 

How about an alignment? You said you got full coilovers, but did you get an alignment afterwards?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B16A2EJ8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

What gears were you getting it in?

Can anyone confirm that the lower AC bracket makes a difference.. I don't wanna pick one from the junk yard if that's not my prob.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes it makes a difference. I filled my torque mounts in with polyurethane (homemade Energy kit) and the wheel hop was quite minimal.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 99GreenEX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Innovative motor mounts will eliminate wheel hop? To that statement, [freak] YOU! (all caps). I have it and still get wheel hop. get your [freak]ing facts straight. The only reason i hate coming here is people giving false info. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Gotta do the torque mounts too man. I filled in all my mounts with Urethane and its awesome. My car vibrates like crazy, but whatever, no wheelhop at least lol.

And I'm talking about the actual mix stuff not the stupid inserts. The inserts suck *** and make it a pain to get the mounts back on.

 

Try filling all your stock mounts and torque mounts. Adjust your struts to a softer setting. What air pressure do you run in your tires? What size rims and what weight?

You could always go with a traction bar.

 

I have 15'' Wheels with 205-50-15 Kumho Ecsta SPT's. Almost brand new tires.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SkoundrelUSA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How about an alignment? You said you got full coilovers, but did you get an alignment afterwards?

Yes it makes a difference. I filled my torque mounts in with polyurethane (homemade Energy kit) and the wheel hop was quite minimal.

Gotta do the torque mounts too man. I filled in all my mounts with Urethane and its awesome. My car vibrates like crazy, but whatever, no wheelhop at least lol.

And I'm talking about the actual mix stuff not the stupid inserts. The inserts suck *** and make it a pain to get the mounts back on.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I got an alignment and it's set perfectly, barely and camber at all (if any) and the car steers perfectly strait.

I'm gonna try to get a torque mount/lower AC mount soon, and I'll replace it and try that. But i dont thnk that's my prob, I know people that are running without even having one at all.

Can it be my coilovers? Maybe they are not set right? How do I make them softer?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blk92_d16 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Try filling all your stock mounts and torque mounts. Adjust your struts to a softer setting. What air pressure do you run in your tires? What size rims and what weight?

You could always go with a traction bar.</TD></TR></TABLE>

If I fill the stock mounts, do I have to take them out or can I do it with them still installed in the car?

How do I adjust the struts on my coilovers?

I am running whatever Honda reccommends, I think 32psi ???

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B16A2EJ8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

If I fill the stock mounts, do I have to take them out or can I do it with them still installed in the car?

How do I adjust the struts on my coilovers?

I am running whatever Honda reccommends, I think 32psi ???

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Gotta take them out. Or look for another set for cheap, fill those in and swap them. Thats what I did because I didn't have time for my car to be sitting on stands

Sorry, what kind of coilovers? If they are not the damper adjustable ones, you can't adjust them. Any idea what spring rates they are in the rear?

 

They are Function Forms, Type 1 I believe.

They have the little **** you can turn in both the front and back on the strut towers.. But the little red **** pulls right out, so IDK what to do.

As for spring rates, I'm not sure I know they are set kinda stiff since the ride is very bouncy.

Could this be causing the wheel hop?

 

I don't really know much about those coilovers, sorry.

Stiffer the spring rate, the better (for drag at least) Look at drag coilovers. They have like 18k spring rates as opposed to normal ones (8-13k)

Also, having a little camber and toe is good because when you go to launch, the front of the car lifts a little so if theres a little camber, the lift allows the entire tread of the tire to meet the ground. Toe, I'm not sure, but I've read in the drag forum that having about 1/8" in is good for drag

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SkoundrelUSA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I don't really know much about those coilovers, sorry.

Stiffer the spring rate, the better (for drag at least) Look at drag coilovers. They have like 18k spring rates as opposed to normal ones (8-13k)

Also, having a little camber and toe is good because when you go to launch, the front of the car lifts a little so if theres a little camber, the lift allows the entire tread of the tire to meet the ground. Toe, I'm not sure, but I've read in the drag forum that having about 1/8" in is good for drag</TD></TR></TABLE>

For a daily driver you want toe at 0. Period.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B16A2EJ8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

What gears were you getting it in?

Can anyone confirm that the lower AC bracket makes a difference.. I don't wanna pick one from the junk yard if that's not my prob.</TD></TR></TABLE>
didnt i confirm that at my earlier post . and yes it will make a different and dont pick up one from junk yard. get a brand new one. which is what i did and it does make a difference

 

wheel hop on my car stopped with a torque damper ($90) with stock motor mounts on my car.

I was getting the hops on 1st & 2nd gear.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crazyguy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">lower ac mount is just to prevent ac compressor vibrate too much. and are u running stock motor mounts? cause they are soft, and to make cars quiet at idel, not vibrate too much. u can try to use aftermarket motor mounts such as innovation or hasport. they are very stiff and firm,they will eliminates wheel hop,but the car will vibrate and shake when the car is at idel. </TD></TR></TABLE>

that is absolutely not correct

that is a lower torque mount, and it helps with keeping engine movement to a minimum. please dont post misinfomration

yes aftermarket mounts will help with wheel hop, but it always depends on tires, suspension, clutch, and road conditions....not just mounts