So I had a shop put in a Viper 500ESP a while back. And now I want to make it useful.

I've read the stickies and various links to websites etc. I am still confused.

I have a battery backup that I want to use. I've read on suspendedhatch's website that the grey will go the the alarms constant positive. Where does the blue wire from the battery backup go?

I want to install sensors like a hood pin and glass break. I guess I'm confused about the splicing. I've studied that diagram and can't make sense of it. does it matter which harness on the alarm brain I splice into? It looks like both the bigger plug and the smaller plugs are spliced into. I also want to do the fuel kill switch to my alarm. From the relay pin 85 suspendedhatch states this connects to "alarms ground when armed." would this be the orange h1/1 wire on my alarm marked (-) 500 mA ARMED OUTPUT or the red/white (-) 200 mA CHANNEL 2 OUTPUT? I just need help. I want to drive my car without worrying too much about it getting stolen (again). I have my alarm manual but not the battery backup. I just need help.

Thanks.

 

What is the make and model of your car? The orange wire is the ground when armed output that is usually used to control a relay for the starter kill. Instead of doing a starter kill it is better to kill the ground wire for the main relay.

 

I have a 97 Honda Civic hatchback

 

what back up battery do you have Is it the dei 520t? I taking it as it. do you have all the tools and material to do the job?

 

Yeah I have all the tools just not the know how lol.

 

I swear to god all the answers are right here: http://causeforalarm.thecarthi...ttery

And again here: http://causeforalarm.thecarthi...ttery

The rest of the answers are found by scrolling or clicking around those two sites.

What diagram are you referring to with the splicing?

Sorry if the HT write-ups are bad. I don't have any access to alter them and I wouldn't bother since forum code is such a pain in the ***. No HTML no CSS? No way.

red/white is for trunk pop.
orange is ground when armed

 

Suspendedhatch, I thank you for the excellent DIY's. They're good. But I still am confused about the splicing of sensors.

The diagram or drawing I am referring to is in your DIY on how to install a stealth alarm on this site which is stickied. But very kindly, 94_DC4 clarified a couple things for me which will now make my "upgrade" a breeze.

so if the red/white lead is for trunk pop then I don't need to install a "hood pin" back there right? which wire would I tap into if this is the case?


Modified by zerovandez at 5:39 AM 3/13/2008

 

Don't confuse trunk pop with trunk trigger. You'll not be using the red/white wire.

http://causeforalarm.thecarthi...ights

http://causeforalarm.thecarthi....html

 

gotcha. sounds good.

 

And about diodes and relays. Is there a wrong one to get? I went to radio shack and saw a 12v 30a relay but people on here state to get a 20/30. And there were different types of diodes as well. Most were 1-3amps. wasn't sure which ones to get.

 

So I took off my panels today! I've also been reading about the remote trunk pop. It's something that I want. I've been researching this and found the solution, at least I thought. The tutorials on the web linked from HT suggest the trunk pop leads are rods. Mine is a cable similar to the hood cable. how will I do this?

 

Ok guys I will just use a 522t because of it's cable type solenoid. I have a pretty good idea how to install it. it comes with it's own switch which I don't mind using. I also want it to interact with my alarm. I found this diagram for use with the included button:



How to integrate with an alarm and use the switch?


Modified by zerovandez at 5:52 AM 3/20/2008


Modified by zerovandez at 6:13 AM 3/20/2008

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zerovandez &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I went to radio shack and saw a 12v 30a relay but people on here state to get a 20/30.</TD></TR></TABLE>

LOL. Get a 20A or 30A relay. Your 30A relay was one of those two.

http://causeforalarm.thecarthi....html

Do not use the 522t. Come on man. It's in the site. Read it. http://causeforalarm.thecarthi....html

and again on the other page:

http://causeforalarm.thecarthi...uator

You know why I made these sites, right? I put an index on the page. Was it so that I can more quickly access the info and give you the link?

BTW you'll have one hell of a time doing your first trunk pop.

 

You know what? I use your site all the time. Matter of fact, I study the damn thing. But if I'm still confused about something, then I'll ask. It's not like I asked these questions without researching. So pardon my stupidity.

Forward. So I get to thinking that I can use the heavy duty actuator instead in my hatch. That's where the rod is that connects to the key cylinder. I want to use a push button switch and remote alarm switch. how to do this?

 

Honestly if you are not sure how to do this, I wouldn't do it. Go back to the place that installed it and have them add it.

 

I guess I'll just install it the relay way with the remote unlock. Thanks again all.

 

I don't get frustrated with people when the ask for clarifications. In fact, I use that to improve the site. I get frustrated when people ask questions w/out even checking to see if I've covered it. I spend a lot of time on the site and it's nice to know that people are looking at it instead of asking me to cut / paste it on the forum.

Those heavy duty actuators are too powerful for imports and they tend to ruin the release and locking mechanisms. There is also precious little space to mount them. They're very noisy. Further, you don't want to cut open the cable that goes to the trunk, because then the manual release handle wont work. It's also very difficult. You want to go directly to the release rod as shown in the write-ups.

Those heavy duty actuators are only used on imports to pop the doors open.

 

gotcha boss! Now one thing that you should put on the site is how to run the actuator through a relay to use with alarm and to a momentary switch as illustrated in the picture.

 

i put a regular dei door lock actuator on my hatch. has worked perfect for years. suspended is correct those solenoids are way to strong.

 

what year is your hatch and what was the best way you found to mount the actuator?

 

And about diodes. I'm preparing to install them. I know which way they should face on the blue instant trigger as suspendedhatch describes. now I will also be using the orange wire as well. the DEI install manual states if there are extra sensors to be used with the orange wire, a diode will need to be installed. their illustration has the striped side of the diode facing the alarm. will I need to install a diode for each sensor in the same fashion for the orange wire?

 

bump because im installing this thing now. All is going well, just not sure about the orange wire and use of diodes.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zerovandez &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">now I will also be using the orange wire as well. the DEI install manual states if there are extra sensors to be used with the orange wire, a diode will need to be installed. their illustration has the striped side of the diode facing the alarm. will I need to install a diode for each sensor in the same fashion for the orange wire?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Are you talking about using the the orange wire as the ground for more then one of the "zones" sensors? If so you use the diodes to isolate that trigger/zone. You put the strip on the orange side, that is correct.


Modified by White Smoke at 9:35 PM 3/22/2008

 

the orange is a negative armed output. It's prewired into the ignition somehow with a relay. The DEI instruction guide for this alarm states to use a diode when adding other sensors. the picture illustrates how to install the diode with the stripe side facing the alarm (not stripe side to sensor as with instant trigger blue wire). but that's the only diode in the picture. they did not illustrate one to use with other sensors. So I am assuming that the only diode needed for this wire when adding extra sensors is the one that runs to/from the ignition.

Now I know that some of you may argue this when installing extra sensors. So should I use diodes with stripe side facing the alarm (orange wire) for every sensor that I use?

 

Illustrated in what picture? If you want to add a switch, tap into the red/white wire and ground the other pole of the switch. It must be a NORMALLY OPEN switch capable of handling a few amps.


Please tell me that this picture looks familiar to you.

Ignition? The ignition isn't involved when adding sensors.

Use a diode for each sensor. Take all the diodes and twist them together on their striped side. Twist the orange wire around the twisted diodes and solder. Then twist and solder each respective sensor to a separate diode's non-striped end. Tape over the whole diode (heat shrink works much better for this).