I blew it bigtime! Was following the destructions on how to adjust timing belt on my d15b SOHC engine and instead of turning the crank pulley to tighten it after I loosened the tensioner adjustment bolt, I cranked on the cam pulley (too lazy to bend down and turn crank pulley) counterclockwise as it says you are supposed to. Well that's when I screwed up. Something slipped like the belt jumped a few teeth on the pulley(s) or something? Then it slipped huge after I tried it again. Guess I needed to replace the timing belt anyway. The problem is that I now have no clue how to get the engine back timed since there are no marks that I was supposed to make before removing the belt. Can anyone give me the steps to re-time the engine from scratch after I get the new belt installed? Thanks for any guidance from the pros.

 

BUMP Anybody?

 

so why were you "adjusting" the timing belt?

 

Had the valve cover off adjusting the rocker arms and just thought I'd adjust the timing belt just in case it needed it.

 

What you did was not very smart at ALL.. Disconnect your batt. Pull the rocker arm assembly off, loosen the tensioner pulley, slide the belt off, pull the cam out. That should close all the valves when you turn the motor by hand.
Look at the crank pully for the white TDC mark, turn the motor with your wrench on the crank pulley untill it is perfectly ligned up with the plastic needle on the belt cover, Then set the cam back in place with the "up" or "top" at the 12 0'clock position then put the rocker assem. back on. Torque it all to spec..
Slide the belt on, with the tensioner loose rotate the motor 3 revolutions to give it proper tension then tighten the tensioner. This should take about 3-4hrs with the right tools, then bust out the timing light.
By this way you should'nt have to worry about bending valves..

 

Yeah I gotta agree with you now. Really sux to learn the hard way they way I have. Is the way you have described the only way to get the engine back in time? What are the "right kind" of tools? I've got basic tools but nothing "special." A friend of mine is coming over Friday to help get it back right. Has all the experience and schooling to do it unlike me. Pulling the cam out seems kinda intense but if that is the only way to get it right I guess that's the way my friend will also say it has to be done. I hope there is some other procedure to get it back. I guess I'm fortunate that it only the SOHC engine.

 

P.S. I was gonna replace the timing belt while I've got it apart so maybe there is another way to re-time the engine after you pull the crank pulley off in order to get the belt off. Maxcapacity or somebody please say yes and describe how. I've got the power steering pump out of the way and the bracket off, the a/c belt off, the alt belt off and am now ready to pull the crank pulley and have run into another problem. How do you break the crank pulley bolt loose? When I put my socket on it, it spins freely. Guys this has turned into a real biatch! Hoping there is an easier way.

 

you will prolly need an impact gun to get the crank bolt loose

there are timing marks on your cam and on your crank.

line up the marks on the cam so you know the head is at TDC for cyl 1

turn the crank till you see the white line (or the little cut in the crank thats all by itself, you should see three little cuts just a little bit over to the side. those are your timing marks)

so get everything lined up, bolt it back together
start the car with your timing gun hooked up to CYL 1, and fire the light at the crank (with the service plug jumpered)

you will see those 3 little lines. they represent 14deg, 16deg, and 18deg of timing

set the car to 16, or 18 or whatever your helms says by turning your distributor. tighten dizzy and un jumper the service plug and you are done

 

Thanks welfarepc. I'm trying to figure out how I'm gonna break the crank pulley bolt loose in a way other than the impact gun. Don't have a compressor nor impact wrench. I understand you can use a socket, breaker bar and a piece of pipe of something that will reach the ground and bump the engine over until it breaks loose. Just unsure which side to put the pipe. The front end side of the car or the rear end side. Don't want to put it on the wrong side and just further tighten it. Any idea which side I need to put it? Thanks again.

 

A real easy way for me was to wrap a chain wrench around the crank pulley and it will press against the front crossmember .. Makes it a breeze if your strong to crack that nut.
Crappy tire will loan you one if there are in your area, I also had to attach a piece of bike chain to make it long enough to wrap around.
What welfarepc mentioned are the steps you need to do also. Buy a $20 book and it will tell you everything step by step making easy and you can retrace your steps just incase..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Maxcapacity &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Crappy tire </TD></TR></TABLE>

where?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Maxcapacity &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Buy a $20 book and it will tell you everything step by step making easy and you can retrace your steps just incase..</TD></TR></TABLE>

x2, a manual will be your best friend.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by grog &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

where?
Canadian tire..


x2, a manual will be your best friend.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

next time dont be so lazy and try to skip a step to save you a few seconds, looks like its costing you a few hours now

 

Bigger problem now. Got the crank bolt off with his compressor and impact gun and the belt on. Went to fire it up and it started briefly and then quit. Won't start back up. Checked and it has fair compression in #1, very little in #2 and #3 and excellent pressure in #4. When I first tried to adjust the belt, I recall the cam pulley that I was tugging on slipping alot not just once but twice. When we put the belt on, we got the cam pulley at TDC but didn't put the crank pulley on and get them both at TDC like I recall someone saying you are supposed to. Would this have anything to do with the engine not having good compression in all cylinders? My friend thinks I may have bent a couple of valves but in the SOHC engine I'm not sure how I could have done that even if the engine was way out of time and I tried to start it. Anybody have a good idea about the inner works of one of these SOHC 1.5 engines and can offer some solid technical advice? I hope I don't have to take the head to a shop to fix it or replace the engine since I could prolly get a decent used one for what it'll cost to have the head rebuilt. Thanks guys.

 

well since your engine in an interference engine that means that the pistons have the ability to touch the valves. So yes there is a chance you bent a valve or two. I believe all Honda engines from 1986 were interference engines. I am thinking you didnt put the timing belt back on correctly and when you started it you bent the valves. Have fun pulling the cylinder head off.

 

I've been told that the SOHC engine is not an interference engine and only the DOHC ones are. Anybody????

 

All EF engines are interference engines.

 

Learned the hard way but was a blessing in disguise. Needs rings and the pistons come out easier I see from the top. Gonna do a valve job and replace the bent valves and replace the rings and rod bearings while we're at it. Thanks guys for all your advice and comments. NEVER I repeat NEVER pull on the cam pulley!