take a look, is this oiliness normal or are they fug'd?
right rear


left rear


also, the rear rotors are super shiny and smooth. are the rotors glazed or is this normal?


yshi - who 'massaged' the bodywork a bit tonite

 

Is that Kelly's hatch or yours in the back?

 

I don't think the oil on the shocks is normal...how many miles are on the car? I have nearly 20k with 5 track events and half a dozen autocrosses, and no signs of bad shocks.

Super smooth rotors also don't seem normal...if the pads are glazed, then they won't wear on the rotors like they should (and will likely make them smooth and shiny).

 

reid:
is this guy's EGg


Fak! I got a track event coming this weekend w/ busted rear shocks and glazed rear brakes

Bob:
I got 46K miles on the car right now.
yshi - who doesn't want to be a spectator!

 

How do you un glaze pads is there a way or do you have ot replace?

 

Go get some hardcore metal sandpaper (80-100 grit) and take it to the rotors and pads...that should get you through one event. After that, I recommend Porterfield R4 or an equivalent pad...they will munch your rotors a little bit at track days, which is better than glazing them

 

Sandpaper is only a temporary fix...if the pads are glazed, then the compound isn't up to the punishment you're handing them. That means it will happen the next time you are hard on the brakes... If you are glazing pads, it's probably best to upgrade. Trust me, I'm on my 2nd set of rotors and 3rd set of pads, and I'm not even at 20k miles yet

 

for the love of god you are a hard ITR driver BEST of MOTORING stuff huh I saw futage of you at buttonwillow passing thomas on my camera and your vid damn your a hard charger

Chris who is checking his cross drilled and slotted rotors and carbotech pads for glazing right now. I punished them at button willow so bad they actually melted little bits on my rims looks like little clumps of sauder

 

I'm getting some Axxis Ultimates on the rears either tomolo or tues so I'll anti-glaze the rotors then - so that should take care of the brakes.

yshi - whose gotta figure out what to do about the shocks quick!

 

Bob - who doesn't have any good suggestions. Maybe bring some rear shock oil in case they run dry!

 

yoshi looks like a dork...neener neener ..

 

LOL, wait until I post clips of me hard charging through the dirt at Thunderhill on Friday I didn't necessarily use up all those braking components, but the stockers weren't good enough, and then the Porterfield R4S weren't good enough... I got new Brembo OEM rotors and Porterfield R4, and everything seems good now!

And Best Motoring = ...that's where I learned the proper heel-toe technique!!


[Modified by Bob#455, 11:44 PM 7/7/2002]

 

So if a have a glazed pad, i'll have glazed rotor right?
If i change to new pad (getting axxis ultimate from yoshi), will that "heal" the rotor in time?
My front rotor has the same mirror look that yoshi has...and braking is

oh..and how do i know if i have a glazed pad?



[Modified by PY2KITR1060, 2:48 AM 7/8/2002]

 

Looks like you maybe getting some new shocks soon. First I would rinse it off with soap and water, because it could be the leftovers from roadkill if you' re lucky.


[Modified by Vonte', 10:19 AM 7/8/2002]

 

try a warrenty claim at your local Acura Dealer??? can it happen?

 

Don't even bother messing with the rotor. Just put the new pads on there. It'll sort itself out.

Warren

 

Time for some KONIs? They'll give lifetime warranty!!!

 

I would, but they are a PITA to adjust

 

I put Neuspeed/Koni Yellos on my car this weekend... OMG! What a difference. I did have one blown rear shock. the Koni's are AMAZING. The adjustability in both rebound and shock height. I'm working on a full review. They were a bit spendy, but worth every penny. The car handles amazingly now, and I thought it handled well before...

 

I've seen seal failure in a shock absorber but, on both at the same time?

Eric - who thinks Yoshi looks more like a surgeon rather than a body shop guy on
da 4th pic.


[Modified by '01ITR#950, 8:51 AM 7/8/2002]

 

No, not with the "new" ones. I think these: 8041-1164Sport. These are externally adjustable on the top. I don't understand why the US don't have these. They are on my car for about 3 years!!!

 

I didn't see the PITA to adjust post. My Konis are SUPER easy to adjust. I have a big white wheel **** thingie that you just put on the top and twist. It has about 1.75 turns of rotation from full stiff to full soft. I can adjust all 4 shocks in about 1 min. Open hood, twist the front 2, close hood, open hatch, twist rear two, close hatch, done!

 

they still seem pretty firm (bounce test w/ 200+lbs guy jumping up and down in the trunk ), so i'll just run the car as-is at NASA and deal w/ this next week.

yshi - who saw the pic of himself again and wondered where the mullet came from until he realized it was the strap from the facesheild

Rob:
the current ITR ones (same p/n as CRX ) must be removed, compressed and then turned to adjust the shocks. Costs extra for us ITR guys to have it converted to be externally adjustable

 

I don't know about other countries, but Koni Yellow shocks for the rear of USDM ITR's are not externally adjustable. The front ones are (same as the ones used on Civics and non-ITR's).

 

Hmmm... I have learned something today. That sux you have to take them off to adjust them. I guess I'll just add that to my list of what makes a GSR better than an ITR. Oh and thats a VERY short list.