My motor popped a while ago. The sleeve on cylinder 3 cracked (didn't take pics) and I found the oil to be highly contaminated after tearing it down. I have a very large oil cooler on the car to combat heat at the track. This is a turbo dc2r. I wonder what would be the best way to properly clean my cooler so it doesn't cause problems with the new block? Should I just pour oil through it until it starts to run clean? Thanks for any suggestions.

 

I'm going to assume it's plumbed in line after the filter, right? Maybe cut the filter open to see how bad that is. Chances are the cooler isn't too bad off. If you do need to clean it, you want a little bit of pressure. Just pouring oil into it won't do that good of a job, but you also don't want to leave water in it or anything if you use a hose or something.

 

I'd get a new oil cooler. I wouldn't reuse that one.

-Chris

 

Seriously?

 

sounds extreme but that is an option

 

what about hooking it up the outlet of a parts cleaner, and letting it run though for a while? then, brakecleaner it full, run air pressure though it, etc... then water, then air again, than it'll be clean

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Root of all Evil &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sounds extreme but that is an option</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have cleaned out my oil cooler after blowing engines with the pressure delivered by a solvent tank. Then, I've taken the cooler down and had it professionally ultra-sonically cleaned. When I went to pick up the cooler, the man in charge told me there wasn't any debris found in the cooler. It only costs about $30 to ultrasonically clean a oil cooler, so it was cheap.

 

That's pretty neat, Johnny. Where did you go to have that done?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris F &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'd get a new oil cooler. I wouldn't reuse that one.

-Chris</TD></TR></TABLE>
good rule of thumb. thats what i would do. rather be safe than sorry.

 

I had a radiator professionally flushed at a local radiator shop. I'm pretty sure they could do the same for an oil cooler, however, I think for the rad it was like $70, so it may be worth just buying a new cooler.

 

thanks guys

 

I would definately buy one, too much time and expense goes into building a new engine. But if your strapped for cash having it power flushed would *probably* get everything out.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Root of all Evil &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The sleeve on cylinder 3 cracked (didn't take pics) and I found the oil to be highly contaminated after tearing it down</TD></TR></TABLE>

Hey, I misread this, I think.

There's no metal shavings at all in your oil pan, is that right? Is the "contamination" just antifreeze? If so, yeah you could probably reuse it if you were cheap. I might cook it to boil off the water and antifreeze or use one of the other methods suggested. It's probably not the end of the world if a little coolant remains. It'll get hot and evaporate off once you get the motor up to temperature, and hopefully get the rest at an oil change.

 

Oh yeah. I think all of us were assuming you meant metal shavings. If it's just coolant, then certainly a good power flush or hot tank or something should be good enough and will be cheaper than buying a new one.

 

I'm sorry I should have been more specific but the cooler is placed after the filter so the oil was filter before it went to the cooler. However it was loaded with coolant.

 

yea, like chris and others said. coolant isnt a big deal. that u can clean

 

pour thinner, acetone, etc. in it. shake it, blow it out, rinse and repeat.

 

I didn't take any chances when i cracked a sleeve in my block. I changed from a 19 row to a 24 row oil cooler.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EleanoR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I didn't take any chances when i cracked a sleeve in my block. I changed from a 19 row to a 24 row oil cooler. </TD></TR></TABLE>

what brand did you choose?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Stinkycheezmonky &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Seriously?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Nascar does, so do most other professional racing series.

Thats how I got the setrab cooler from a nascar team reseller for 60 bucks. Had it cleaned and goot to go.

 

Right, professional teams do. Annnnnd...you're using their old ones that were on busted motors

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Root of all Evil &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

what brand did you choose?</TD></TR></TABLE>


Setrab. I use the Greddy oil filter relocation kit and the sandwich plate adapter.

Mike

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Stinkycheezmonky &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Right, professional teams do. Annnnnd...you're using their old ones that were on busted motors </TD></TR></TABLE>

Your a busted motor...

OHHH!

/end of rant and back on topic.

-sander