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Adj. Sway Bar Endlinks needed with SK2 Rear LCA's?

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Old Mar 10, 2008 | 05:48 PM
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Default Adj. Sway Bar Endlinks needed with SK2 Rear LCA's?

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Modified by 96 GSR-T at 1:21 AM 3/13/2008
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Old Mar 10, 2008 | 06:13 PM
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I just looked at it again and maybe I asked the wrong question. When I am trying to tighten the swaybar bolt to the LCA, it seems like the gap from the stock endlink and the SK2 LCA is too much and if I tighten it fully down it looks like I will be bending either the sway bar or the endlink, am I just bugging out or is this normal, it seems like the sway bar is going to be extremely tensioned when the endlink bolt is fully tight on the LCA
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Old Mar 10, 2008 | 06:51 PM
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Default Re: Adj. Sway Bar Endlinks needed with SK2 Rear LCA's? (96 GSR-T)

Afraid I just can't mentally picture what you are describing.

A photo would probably help significantly...
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Old Mar 11, 2008 | 05:40 AM
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Default Re: Adj. Sway Bar Endlinks needed with SK2 Rear LCA's? (TunerN00b)






basically the bolt is getting extremely tight and there is still an inch left to tighten to snug the sway bar to the lca, it appears when its goin to be fully tight that the sway bar is going to be extremely pre-tensioned or the stock link is going to bend before its all the way snug.
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Old Mar 11, 2008 | 05:42 AM
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i might just be tripping out but it does not seem correct, the bolt also wants to go in crooked becuase of the angle of the stock link versus the lca sway bolt holes.
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Old Mar 11, 2008 | 01:41 PM
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anybody?
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Old Mar 11, 2008 | 05:14 PM
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I just installed my Blox LCA and have the exact same problem. There a method on using a long bolt and have a lot of washer but don't know if that would work well.
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Old Mar 11, 2008 | 07:21 PM
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Default Re: (CUTTERSPOOL)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CUTTERSPOOL &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just installed my Blox LCA and have the exact same problem. There a method on using a long bolt and have a lot of washer but don't know if that would work well.</TD></TR></TABLE>

that is the only way I can make this work I think, the thing is not only is the gap too great but the angle is also off, which an adjustable link would fix, but I was under the assumption these were a bolt-in product that used all OEM components and it seems its not.
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