I've looked at 5 different vacuum diagrams and still can't get it right. I have an 89 crx si manual and it's diagram is different then the one on my 88 crx si (under the hood) Next to my map sensor there should only be one other thing. but I have both a "purge cut off solenoid valve" AND a "dashpot solenoid valve". Plus my intake manifold looks quite different then all the diagrams for b16's I've looked at.

After dinner I'm going to go remove a rattling heat shield and try to tighten my O2 sensors becuase I think they're leaking exhaust fumes. I'm in Utah doing the swap and have ONE day left (monday) to finish and make it drivable back to Washington.

Las bit of bad news.. Upon fire up it seems to be dispelling blue smoke from the exhaust. I hope this goes away.. I got the motor from Hondamotorsonline. If I have bad piston rings I'm gonna go to california and kill steve myself!

If anyone has any advice please help.. FOR THE LOVE OF GOD.. PLEASE HELP!. I need the Idle to be at a normal state.

Thank you all in advance.. Hopefully I won't have to kill myself, or steve.!

 

i know that after u fire up a b16 after a swap the majority of them will smoke. it will go away, it's just from where your engine was shipped and oil got sloshed around. can't help ya on the rest, i had a friend do my wiring and vacuum lines and all that mess.

 

try this link for the vacuum diagram:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=187736

 

dude, don't kill yourself. i took these for you..




hope these help..it works for me.

 

Utah huh? What part. And Washington. St? what part of that too?

 

is it necessary to leave the dashpot on? i left mine on, with a plugged up vac line, and i'm starting to think it looks ugly.

 

SuperCivic: The item that protrudes from the manifold and hangs over the throttle cable and has a little thing hanging from the bottom of it that attatches to the throttle cable connection.. I hope you understand what I'm talking about. What did you do with the vacuum connection coming off of that? did you route that into the tube that goes from the valve cover to your intake tube? or did you cap it off?
Also, does the vacuum tube that leaves the FPR only go to one slot on the back of the manifold? That's what the 6 diagrams I've looked at suggest.

Update: Still can't get idle down.. BLUE smoke went away!! Tried to pull it out of the garage and the clutch (even though I only have 1/4" freeplay) would catch just after the pedal left the carpet. Maybe it's a release bearing problem?
After I re-parked it in the garage and shut if off I noticed that the hood is more closed on one side... The hood on the driverside must be touching something underneath not allowing it to shut all the way but I can't check because the lever to open the hood broke when I tried to open it! NOW I'M POTENTIALLY FUCKED!

Breaka 1_9: I've searched h-t for 5 hours looking for all the damn diagrams I could find and nothing tells me what I need to know but I appreciate the help anyway.!

Anyone looking at doing b16 swaps in the future I hope you read this post! Before I did the install I did 8 months of research and had everything laid out ready to go.. little did I know everything would be "slightly" different than everything I studied!

SuperCivic: do you have a picture a little more towards the driver side so i can see the FPR connections?

 

When I did my B20 swap I used old G2 teg componets, i.e. TB and IM. These both had odd dashpots on them that, when connected, caused the idle to skyrocket. Both of these are just capped off. There is another vaccuum port off the TB that, when connected wrong, caused it to run EXTREMELY rich. If you just turn the car on and just start playing with the lines you can probably figure out the vaccum hoses. I hope this helps in some way.

 

Why don't you download the ZC and SiR workshop manual instead of investing in a rope?

http://www.hondacrx.co.uk/

Check under downloads

 

you're talking about the one way valve coming off the dashpot? it's supposed to connect to the intake pipe at some point but my iceman didn't have a hole for it, so i just left it. you can just leave it open i'm pretty sure.

Yes, from FPR i just went to the one line. it's hard to see but i then teed the two lines that are back there together. if you need that other pic i can take it when i get home this afternoon.

you can adjust that clutch out..use the adjuster on the end of the clutch cable by the tranny. see if you can get that hood open too sounds like the hood may be resting on the motor a little..which mount kit did you use? maybe time for a ZC or SiR style hood?

 

here is the diagram u need to look at

 

hey man this post should help you out https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=187677

i did it that way and it fired up smooth the first time. props to jared!

good luck

 

Well Posion and I went over there to help him out. I get there to find out. He's already got it figured out. What a help we where. But none the less, it runs good now and everything seems to be looking up for Rice_Classic. Have a safe trip back man.


[Modified by CR-X, 12:50 AM 7/9/2002]

 

yep, got it working this morning in 15 min, and last night took him hours -- i guess good night sleep gets ya smart huh


[Modified by poison, 11:56 PM 7/8/2002]

 

It's a beast.. that's all I can say.. it's a fuxing beast!!
I drove up to Deer valley above Park city today to warm things up. Strong as can be it was. Only one problem left though. The idle fluctuates when the a/c is turned on and everyone once in a while with it off. But for the most part it is perfect operating machine as long as I don't turn off the a/c.

I wondering if my a/c is drawing too much current? I'm not gettting any codes and my a/c blows out really cold air it just changes how the motor idles. Maybe the EACV?? Maybe a vacuum line.. who knows.

If anyone has had similar problems with this please help.. It the simple problems that are the hardest to figure out that **** me off most!

As for now.. I'm enjoying vtec and am going to search what info I can find on fluctuating idles...

CR-X and poison: please not use my name in open forums... and thanks once again for stopping by.. You're civic and crx are very bitchin' and good luck with that valve train.

 

what mounts are you using?
what ac mount?
were u able to get both fans back in?

 

Hasport billet mounts
Hasport a/c bracket.
Never took the fans off.. took of front x-member to put on header and a/c compressor.

UPDATE!: a/c idle fluctuation is gone.. don't know if it fixed itself or if it was something with the vacuum lines... Godbless H-T. none of this would have been possible without h-t and its members.

 

see, and no need to blow your head off either

 

pleaseplease PLEASE!!!! Tell me which vaccuum line causes the car to run uber rich.....

Dan
(who's b16 smells funny)

 

hehe, me thinks it's your camshafts