Parked the 92 Prelude SI AWS 2.3 Automatic for about 6 to 8 months (indoors). Pulled it out of storage and the battery was dead, don’t know how long it was dead for. Charged it and the first drive got about 50 YRDS from the house and ABS light came on.

Stop the car and start it again ABS light is off. Drive it, and about 50 yards again it comes on. Check the code and it blinks, quickly, one time.

Never a prob. untill now.

HELP…..

 

you need to jumper that blue connector behind the radio, and initiate the engine code blinking, and look up the codes , see which abs sensor its probably saying is bad inspect it replace if needed.

 

Autoluder, I did that and it just flashed, quickly, one time. I dont know what one flash means.

 

reset your ecu and drive for a awhile and see what codes you get then.

 

The blue Jumper Harness will jump the ECU cel codes. If it blinks 1 time real quick its 02 sensor. If it blinks 1 time real long its the sensor on the bottom of the Intake Mani on the driver side of the mani fold.

 

Autoluder, i will try that abd see what happens, thx.

Acidcrakker, not to question your knowledge, i'm new to hondas, but my abs light is on. Will engine problems make the abs light come on?

 

Could it possibly be a vehicle speed sensor at your wheels? Does it shut down your 4ws at all?

VSS will shut off abs and 4ws if thats the problem.

Hows your Fluid abs and brake fluid levels?

I also think that if there are detected brake problems, that your abs might register an error. Is that possible?

Any results when checking your cels again (with blue connector jumpered)?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tiredlude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Acidcrakker, not to question your knowledge, i'm new to hondas, but my abs light is on. Will engine problems make the abs light come on?</TD></TR></TABLE>

No engine problems and ABS problems are two seprate issues. If you jump the blue connector behind the dash board you will will pull engine cel codes, not ABS cel codes, big diffrence.

My ABS light is on as well and has been on since day one. Havent bothered to care to fix it. Ive searched the boards over and over again. And no one seems to know about the ABS light and how to pull those codes, if its possible.

 

Mattsnooz, I thought about the wheel sensors, as the light does not come on till I start moving, can run all day and not come on. But the computer probably will not start to process info until a wheel is detected moving? I hate just buying parts not knowing if they will fix the problem. Also the ABS code does not indicate a wheel sensor. One flash only.

My AWS is working fine, fluid levels are good and new brakes just before I put it into storage.

I keep thinking something happened when the battery went dead.

VSS= Vehicle Speed Sensor (at the wheel)?

Should the ABS motor make any noise when the car is first started? Can I "hot wire" the ABS motor to see if it works and does anyone know how?

Acidcrakker, when I jump the blue connector I get the ABS light to flash, one time.

 

all your abs sensor is, is a magnet. reads the teeth on the axle as it rotates. either one of your sensors is bad or the teeth on the axle are gunked up or damaged in some way. its likely a bad sensor but its easy enough to check just by taking the wheels off one at a time and checking it out. if the teeth on the axles look good move on to check or replacing the sensors. i ripped one of mine off the last time i replaced an axle. if you dont really need the ABS then dont worry about it. i think mine kicked in once in 2 years

 

According to my manual a main code of 1 and no sub code indicates "ABS pump motor over-run." You need to look at the flow chart on page 19-57 through 19-58. It is too long to type out.

 

hmm, that never even crossed my mind. good lookin out.

 

SikB, people have been telling my the pump is bad, I just cant imagine, but ok... What manual are you refering to look at the flow chart in.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tiredlude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Acidcrakker, when I jump the blue connector I get the ABS light to flash, one time.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well if that is true, then I wonder what it means when it doesnt blink?

 

Dose any of this make sense?

You dont need the ALB checker or the T- wrench to check/bleed the pump!

IABS pump motor relay: How to check
make sure ignition is switched off
remove the pump motor relay
place ohmmeter probes between relay terminals C and D
ohmmeter will read infinity (open circuit) if good
whilst ohmmeter still connected, apply 12 volt supply to replay terminals A and B
ohmmeter will read zero (continuity) if good
if readings are different from above relay might be defective.


ABS pump motor: How to check

IT IS IMPORTANT not to force the pump to run for more than 10 seconds
check fuse for pump motor
check ABS pump relay as previously described
if these prove ok remove pump relay
join pump relay female terminals 1 and 2 with a bridge wire
pump motor should run and begin to labour quickly
if motor is not running apply 12 volts directly to the 2 pin large orange connector plug
if motor is not running, replacement pump is required


How to bleed ALB2 hydraulic system without Honda/Rover tools

upon replacing pump top brake fluid resevoir up to maximum level
with modulator bleed valve open and a pipe to safely channel fluid to a container,
bridge the pump motor relay female terminals 1 & 2, until clear bubble free air is seen
ensure fluid is topped up continuously so as not to run pump dry
individually bleed each wheel in sequence: RHR, LHF, LHR, RHF.
top resevoir to back up to maximum

If, as I suspect, there is no fluid then your pump is broken. What normal happens i is that the two pistons in the pump seize and do not slide in or out = no pump.

This can be fixed quite easily yourself but it does mean removing the ABS modulator & pump.

 

Did this;

Join pump relay female terminals 1 and 2 with a bridge wire
pump motor should run and begin to labour quickly.

Just ran a constent, fast, speed. Did not labour.

Anyonw know where the "Modulator bleed valve" is?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Acidcrakker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

No engine problems and ABS problems are two seprate issues. If you jump the blue connector behind the dash board you will will pull engine cel codes, not ABS cel codes, big diffrence.

My ABS light is on as well and has been on since day one. Havent bothered to care to fix it. Ive searched the boards over and over again. And no one seems to know about the ABS light and how to pull those codes, if its possible.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The service check connector is used to check all codes, CEL, ABS, and 4WS(if equipped).

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Acidcrakker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Well if that is true, then I wonder what it means when it doesnt blink?</TD></TR></TABLE>

check the fuses, when i pulled my abs fuses, i got a solid ABS light when checking codes..

 

sean1121, Thx 4 looking.

Do you have a picture that shows the "modulator bleed valve"?