ok well here goes!!!.........my car i believe might have a blown head gasket. But im not too sure about that. Well before i used to hear a weird sort of "knocking" noise at 4000 rpm or higher. Then i changed my oil and it went away after 2 days. it was pretty low on oil. Now its back and i just changed the oil AGAIn like 800-1200 miles ago. AT 4000 rpm or higher the motor makes a weird noise which sounds like 2 things hitting eachothe but not directly....hittin like rubbing...really weird...i thought it might be rod knocking? but i dont no...no noise when starts or idle rev...only while im Rolling...

any thoughts? thanx!!

 

hmm?

 

Is the noise there when the motor is under load only or is it there even when you are just revving in neutral? If it happens under load I would check your timing, or conversely, run a tank of premium for better knock resistance.

 

have you tried a valve adjustment?

 

i havent tried a valve adjustment..and i do put 91 gas always!! i use thicker oil also..10-30..........but yea im reallly lost....because 2 oil changes ago..i was down 2 in a half courts of oil...

 

it happens under load.....not in idle

 

you could drain the oil and run a 5w-30 synthetic oil and do a valve adjustment, then see if it comes back or goes away

 

well i always ran 5-30.....and honestly my oil was burning so fast..it wasnt even funny.......and i always run full synthetic...mobil 1 only! no other oil touches my motor....i have a feeling the oil isnt fully reaching my head....what can that probably mean?

 

BTW...THANX FOR UR HELP NICKS-EG6

 

Alright then, it sounds like your timing is out, but that doesn't explain the missing oil, unless you're burning it. Check the coolant for a "milky" appearance, or see if there are little black greasy chunks. If not, pull the plugs and check for signs of oil burning or lean running. You should be able to start working in the right direction from the results of those checks.

But it sounds like you think it's burning already. You should probably rebuild the motor and replace the rings and/or valve seals.

 

i check my coolant.......its kinda low...i poured some on my last oil change..and it was low again...but the coolant is clean.....not chunky.....i should check up on the timing also...i just need to fix this problem for some time until i save up enough for a new motor...

 

I noticed you're in California, so I'll assume that you don't let the engine warm up for long before driving, but here is a way to check just how bad you're burning oil. Here in northern Canada, we use snow but this will work well for you. With the engine cold, place a piece of cardboard on the ground behind the exhaust and hold it in place with a rock/brick/whatever. Start the engine and let it come up to operating temperature while giving it a little rev now and then. If you are burning LOTS of oil the exhaust will leave a long black mark on the cardboard that will look like someone had a sputtering can of black spray paint behind your car pointed at the cardboard.

You can try adding Lucas Oil to the crankcase to make your oil consumption slow down a bit but ultimately you will need to rebuild. I don't think you have a head gasket problem though unless you have one spark plug that is super clean.

 

haha...me and warming up my car in the morning is a must...i dont believe in driving my car without warming it up in the mornings or whenever it is cold..but i will try that cardboard box trick..ill let u kno!!!....

 

ive added chevron gas cleaner every oil change

 

It could be your LMA's... that's a the best scenario...

And the worst would be this:

I also had a similar knocking noise aroung 3500-4000 rpm... but mine was more noticable if I went a bit lighter on the gas pedal in that rev range...

It all sounded like it is coming from the valvetrain... turned out IT WASN'T!!!

I went to many mechanics, some of them are known Honda specialists and they ALL said that it isn't anything serious...

That knock sounded like a MUCH QUIETER ROD BEARING KNOCK... like a muffled rod knock so to speak

And they all said that the knock is too quiet to be a rod knock... but I suspected from the start...

To make the story short, after few thousand miles, I spun a rod bearing (3000 rpm, 5th gear and the engine just died)...

nothing broke, oil was on MAX, engine was fully warmed, NEVER over revved...

And it just spun...

And there is one more thing that was weird...

You know that sound that the egnine produces when it is very cold outside and you start it in the morning... that sound that is there for 1-2 seconds until oil comes to pressure...

Well, I got that sound EVERY TIME I started the car after 60 or more minutes after it was turned off...

All in all, I would check the bottom end if I were you and fix it until it's too late...

just take off the oil pan and let some mechanic inspect rod bearings... if they are good, just put everything back on...

Also inspect your oil pump while you're at it...

I HOPE IT ISN'T THE WORST SCENARIO

Good luck my friend

Here's the link to the thread that I started a while back regarding my problem...

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1968610


Modified by KKVTi at 8:17 PM 3/6/2008

 

lol so you have a car that burns oil even though you never put in anything but Mobil 1 synthetic, and never drive it without warming up. Irony. Why baby it anymore? Just put in regular oil, beat the crap out of it, and when it breaks fully, replace it.

You guys worry about your cars too much. Seriously.

What year civic? What motor? How many miles?

Do you beat the crap out of it? Talk to me, goose.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B serious &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">lol so you have a car that burns oil even though you never put in anything but Mobil 1 synthetic, and never drive it without warming up. Irony. Why baby it anymore? Just put in regular oil, beat the crap out of it, and when it breaks fully, replace it.

You guys worry about your cars too much. Seriously.

What year civic? What motor? How many miles?

Do you beat the crap out of it? Talk to me, goose.</TD></TR></TABLE>

aint gotta be such a d*ck Dog.....mayb people take care of their cars because they dont want stupid problems coming up all the time..take care of the car...and dont worry for a long time something might go wrong..i mean..go ahead beat ur motor....go ahead redline it everyday..race everyday...do a b20 vtec swap with a stock bottom end and beat that up by over reving all the time...but i...like to take care of things because then u show u care for what u have...&lt;&lt;&lt; 96 civc...y8 motor.....ima full time student and am saving up for a swap..so i dont have the money right now..baby the car because its ur hobbyy and u care......

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmej814 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

aint gotta be such a d*ck Dog.....mayb people take care of their cars because they dont want stupid problems coming up all the time..take care of the car...and dont worry for a long time something might go wrong..i mean..go ahead beat ur motor....go ahead redline it everyday..race everyday...do a b20 vtec swap with a stock bottom end and beat that up by over reving all the time...but i...like to take care of things because then u show u care for what u have...&lt;&lt;&lt; 96 civc...y8 motor.....ima full time student and am saving up for a swap..so i dont have the money right now..baby the car because its ur hobbyy and u care......</TD></TR></TABLE>

lol there's no trouble bro. I'm not being a dick.

I do beat the crap out of my cars all the time. No problems. Ever. Over the course of 9 cars. I dont drive like a ricer, but 8k+ is something my cars see all the time. I also road race a SHITLOAD in the summertime. I've over revved everything from a D series to my S2000 (10.5k ). No biggie.

I'm just saying it's ironic that you take that much care of your car and it still burns oil.

Also, you're not nesascarily going to get more life out of your engine just by using synthetic. Your car proved that. Once it starts burning oil....why keep putting in expensive *** oil? You probably spent more money on oil and gas to warm up your car every morning than it would have taken to just buy a new D series long block or swap. Regular oil. 4k to 7500 mile oil changes. Done (unless you track the car). Read your manual if you don't believe me.

I NEVER let my cars warm up. I get in, I drive...and I live in Illinois. How cold does it get where you live? 40 degrees? Cmon. Read your manual. It says to pretty much get in and drive. If it's extremely cold (like canada cold), they recommend letting it idle for about 30 seconds to a minute max. Then drive slowly. Once it warms up, drive normally.

I take care of my ****. But it has to return the favor. There's also a cost to benefit trade off. For example: Synthetic oil costs more. If I'm not racing the car or doing really long oil change intervals...I just use regular oil since there's no benefit to using synthetic in that case.

Just do your maintainence. Try changing out your valve seals so that your engine doesn't burn oil. It's most likely your valve seals...unless you have compression issues. Around here, they charge $200 for OEM parts and labor at a speed shop.

Do a valve adjustment. That may take care of your noise above 4k.


No offense either, but it just sounds like you baby the car WAY too much. Cost vs. benefit. Waste your money on buying premium *** **** for your D series...or save up for a better motor/setup? The choice is easy.


I also understand that taking care of your **** shows a great deal of pride. I can definately appreciate that. I just think you might be wasting your time/money. But it's your time/money. So waste away if it makes you feel better.

 

lol..i feel u on that....yea ima just give up on this car dude..well motor i mean...i just dont want this motor to die soon..cause i need it for about 2-4 more months until i get my b16 swap........but i just always though warming up the car in the morning is always a good thing.....and 91 gas..wel im sure with a b motor...i should only put 91...but hey lets see whats up...time to hit 2 dollar castrol oil ...15-50.lol...sorry for spittin at u like that..i thought u were tryin to be a "dick"..lol..my fault..but i see where ur coming from

 

btw..i am saving up..obd2 motors are friggin expensive for sum stupid reason..well im almost there..besdies i just had my university payment..so went like broke quick..ha

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmej814 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">btw..i am saving up..obd2 motors are friggin expensive for sum stupid reason..well im almost there..besdies i just had my university payment..so went like broke quick..ha</TD></TR></TABLE>

why not just convert everything to obd1 and go ls. ive almost finished my ls swap and im only 650 bucks into it.

 

california + cops = A$$HOLES......U have no idea lol...i rather just stay 0bd2...besides the only smog check *hook up* i have is 200 bucks&lt;&lt; fk that hah..i got a hommie in a chp ref office...he'llhelp but i have to stay obd2

 

well that blows. all i can say is check the timing and valves. cali's emissions suck ***. georgia's emissions were pretty bad also. and thats how much my guy costed me.

 

yea thanx dude!! yea im not going to "spend" much because im doing my swap real soon...soo as long as it lasts till then...then im fine..but i just want to fix*** the problem enough so it lasts for a couple more months....1-3

 

hy hatch use to do that when i hit 4k couldnt figure out why. Then spun the bearing my single cam. No metal shavings in the oil? I think its just Vtak kicking in real hard. lol