Hi guys, I have done all the reading about PIC suspensions, and ive read many posts about spring rates. I have even pm'ed some guys on here but im still debating which spring rates would be best for me.

The car gets driven daily in the summer only, with the addition of attending lapping days at least twice a month. I wanna maybe get into some autoX as well.

im debating whether i should go with 10k,12k or 12k,14k. I wanna know if anyone has experienced both spring rates on the P3's and if they are both tolerable on the street.

thanks

 

I had the 12/14K rates and it was just a little too much for regular street use. not that it was hard on the kidneys or anything, and it handled bumps and rough road with no problems. also they were amazing on track. the only problem I had with them was they were bouncy on the highway over dips in the road or joints on overpasses. felt like the car was catching air. it could have also been a result of having the ride height pretty low (about a finger gap).

if I was to do PIC again (which I plan to) I will do less of a spring rate since my car will be seeing a lot more street use.

walker111111 now owns my old setup and he loves them so it really just depends what you like and dont like.

 

i don't have the pics, but i have omni coilovers that are 10k 12k and they are plenty stiff. sometimes for street use i wish they weren't so harsh. i autocross my car and dd it.

 

Hey bro,

I'm in the same boat as you right now. I have done all my research, and came to the conclusion that 10K, 12K is the right way to go if you still drive on the street. I talked to Al from PIC a few weeks ago and he actually has a few custom sets of 10K, 12K selects premade for purchase. I'm getting one of them.

The R3 12K 14K is a great track setup, and after being in Doug's car at Shannonville and Dunnville this summer, I love the way the *** end of the car rotates. I wanted a similar rotation, but milder rates for the little bit of street use my car gets. 14K rears are just not safe on city streets, and god help you if you take a highway offramp that has those dividers at any speed ... I was behind Doug and his car was getting air on every one! Factor in some rain and you're into the guard rail.

Contact Al or Jim from PIC and inquire about the Selects with 10K, 12K. Great price too.

 

Does PIC sell springs seperately? You could buy the R3's and a set of 10k/12k springs and switch out the springs when desired

 

my PICs are 8k,10k and they ride beautifully but maybe thats cause i just went from a ls with tokico blues lol

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jgirard &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Does PIC sell springs seperately? You could buy the R3's and a set of 10k/12k springs and switch out the springs when desired</TD></TR></TABLE>

before I sold my R3 12/14k, I contacted PIC and he was willing to let me get springs that would be less harsh. I would suggest speaking to him about that though since a lower spring rate might not be optimal on a shock valved for 12/14K.

 

maybe a 12k ft/ 10k r would be better for a car that sees alot of street duty?

 

so further to my research ive decided ill either go with 10k 12k, or 12k 10k. Are there any real pros and cons between tthese two setup mentioned here?

 

i run 12/10k Omni ITR sports. for the track and autox its handled really well but for long trips and daily it can get a bit annoying given the stiffness and non adjustable dampening.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spock_rocker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i run 12/10k Omni ITR sports. for the track and autox its handled really well but for long trips and daily it can get a bit annoying given the stiffness and non adjustable dampening. </TD></TR></TABLE>


From others experiences, the harshness is more related to the damping ability of the shocks than the springs rates. Matching a good shock to the spring rate is key for ride quality.

 

its really personal pref. best way is to fined some locals with different spring rates and drive with them and se if its for you. i personally use 18/16 when i had my old car and i live in california so roads suck and it didnt bother me but my dad hated it

 

Select R3s here, though I don't DD my R I still drive it on the street, with tons of chassis reinforcements, big sway bars, and full bucket seats and they don't give me problems, and I've broken my back before. These guys are just a bunch of snivelin' bitches. J/K The dampening on them are even set pretty stiff, all the time.

 

I recently went with the PIC 10/8 combo from m00jin lowd0wnz.

y shi - whose t00 old to be dealing w/ anything stiffer

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by yoshi234 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I recently went with the PIC 10/8 combo from m00jin lowd0wnz.

y shi - whose t00 old to be dealing w/ anything stiffer </TD></TR></TABLE>

this is what i would suggest as well for street duty.

 

I'd go with the 10k/12k
I have them on my car
If I went any higher spring rates, I'd probably need a new set of teeth.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RTW DC2R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

this is what i would suggest as well for street duty. </TD></TR></TABLE>


x2

 

thanks for your input guys....i think im gonna go with 10k 12k

will give it another 5 weeks and hopefully the snow will be gone

 

Hey Joe, we gotta hook up some time when you install those babies...tons of snow this year I know!
Hopefully we can have some track days together


...Rob

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98 ITR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The R3 12K 14K is a great track setup, and after being in Doug's car at Shannonville and Dunnville this summer, I love the way the *** end of the car rotates. I wanted a similar rotation, but milder rates for the little bit of street use my car gets. 14K rears are just not safe on city streets, and god help you if you take a highway offramp that has those dividers at any speed ... I was behind Doug and his car was getting air on every one! Factor in some rain and you're into the guard rail.</TD></TR></TABLE>

LOL...Indeed you and Mike got a very good taste of how easy the rear end can rotate with this setup... there is still dirt coming out of the vents . Seriously, can we say throttle lift over steer? My heart still stops when I think back to that day when my car disappeared into a giant dust cloud. I think Mike was whiter then you when he stepped out of the car.

I find R3's very streetable however when I say that it should be with the disclaimer that you have to know how they change the balance of the car. If you are an inexperienced driver and decide to do some spirited driving on the road be prepared for some repair bills.

But in the right hands this setup works very very well...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BABY NSX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

LOL...Indeed you and Mike got a very good taste of how easy the rear end can rotate with this setup... there is still dirt coming out of the vents . Seriously, can we say throttle lift over steer? My heart still stops when I think back to that day when my car disappeared into a giant dust cloud. I think Mike was whiter then you when he stepped out of the car.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

LMAO .... to tell you the truth, all I remember about that was going around that double apex and looking over at Mike thinking "you can slow down any time ..... any time now..... oh ****!!" Then it was one 360, two 360s ..... and all of a sudden it was like someone threw a huge bucket of dirt in my face!!! There was dirt in my eyes, dirt in my mouth, dirt in my hair, dirt in my nose .... and your poor car .... I wouldn't be the least bit surprised if you were still finding dirt in the vents!!!

A little offroad experience is whatever ..... but THAT was INSANE!!! I thought I was going home in an ambulance. But all in all, you're car pulled through it and didn't have a scratch! I could only imagine how that looked from your point of view! Look forward to hitting the circuit with you again this summer

Anyways, back on topic ..... Doug brings up a good point that the 12K 14K definitely tends to over steer at the limit. You'd have to be aware of this when you're driving anywhere. It's definitely not a beginner suspension setup.

 

im debating this also. The car is 97 ek coupe k20a, gutted, etc. It isnt daily driven, but will see occasional summer driving, but primarily auto x and hpde. The 12k 14k rates just make me nervous, because i am envisioning mishaps on onramps, and remembering a few close calls on my current 8k 10k setup. With that said i think ill be going 10k 12k as well, paired with a 19mm rear and nothing up front initially. Anyways who has the most competetive pricing on these?

 

10/12 (560/672) is nothing on the track. For a daily it'll be kinda stuff, but that's a fairly mild track/HPDE setup.

As for how much the car will oversteer, that depends a lot on swaybar diameter, camber settings, front/rear spring ratio, chassis stiffness, tirecompound, etc. It isn't all springrate driven, which people sometimes tend to emphasize on here.