99-00 SI front sway bar into 96-98
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 640
Likes: 0
From: Duarte, ca, us
99-00 SI front sway bar into 96-98
I want to install the si front sway bar into my 97 civic...I know you need lca,forks,endlinks off a si or 99-00.....
but I want to know if there is a company or someone out there that makes endlinks for the 96-98 civic that will make the si bar fit without all the rest changed...
I remember reading a guy here on HT that made some endlinks that would do just that...I cant find his post....if somebody has that link or if someone knows of a company that makes them that would be great.....
plz help me out
thanks
but I want to know if there is a company or someone out there that makes endlinks for the 96-98 civic that will make the si bar fit without all the rest changed...
I remember reading a guy here on HT that made some endlinks that would do just that...I cant find his post....if somebody has that link or if someone knows of a company that makes them that would be great.....
plz help me out
thanks
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 589
Likes: 0
From: Phoenix, AZ, USA
Re: 99-00 SI front sway bar into 96-98 (robs97)
http://www.jdmuniverse.com/for...ybars
According to the above site, you can use ITR endlinks w/ EX/HX lcas to make an Si swaybar fit.
According to the above site, you can use ITR endlinks w/ EX/HX lcas to make an Si swaybar fit.
Re: 99-00 SI front sway bar into 96-98 (robs97)
No, the way the Si bar mounts to the Si LCAs is unique because of the shape of the bar. You need the Si bar, LCAs, strut forks, and endlinks.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,438
Likes: 1
From: the 609, NJ
Re: 99-00 SI front sway bar into 96-98 (BlueIntegraBoy)
Right. I think the width of the Si sway bar is a little bit wider as well so even if you had fabbed endlinks, the geometry would be off.
Re: 99-00 SI front sway bar into 96-98 (Blk00EJ8)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Blk00EJ8 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Right. I think the width of the Si sway bar is a little bit wider as well so even if you had fabbed endlinks, the geometry would be off.</TD></TR></TABLE>
It's the same the Si sway is shaped at the ends.
It's the same the Si sway is shaped at the ends.
Trending Topics
Re: (SOHCFTW)
You can't use GSR/ITR endlinks.
Si Sway Bar
EX/LX Sway Bar
GSR/ITR Sway Bar (#2)
This is why you need Si specific endlinks, because IT IS shaped differently. Now, you can try to use Heim joints and make your own endlinks.
Si Sway Bar
EX/LX Sway Bar
GSR/ITR Sway Bar (#2)
This is why you need Si specific endlinks, because IT IS shaped differently. Now, you can try to use Heim joints and make your own endlinks.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 1,562
Likes: 1
From: Mid Missouri
Re: (robs97)
It's big. Make sure you put a decent sized rear sway (and necessary reinforcement, IE: Beaks kit or ASR brace) on to complement the front of you'll have some serious understeer.
Cool Cool Island Breezes. BOY-EE
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 11,953
Likes: 9
From: TRILLINOIS....WAY downtown, jerky.
Re: (99hondacura)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 99hondacura »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is the eg sway bar and chassis the same as the gsr or what?? the 92 si model</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes. the swaybars on those cars are the same. The 92-95 civics and 94-01 integras share a lot of parts.
Yes. the swaybars on those cars are the same. The 92-95 civics and 94-01 integras share a lot of parts.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,438
Likes: 1
From: the 609, NJ
Re: (RyanA)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RyanA »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It's big. Make sure you put a decent sized rear sway (and necessary reinforcement, IE: Beaks kit or ASR brace) on to complement the front of you'll have some serious understeer.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's not entirely necessary. EM1s have 26mm front sways with 13 mm rear sways, and with a decent choice of springs and dampers they handle alright. I have an EJ8 which is basically the same chassis minus a few minor reinforcements and I swapped in Si front LCAs with the 26mm bar. I'm also using the 13mm rear bar... was considering getting an ASR brace with a 19mm bar but I'm starting to think it might be overkill.
I have ground controls - 8kg/mm front and 6kg/mm in the rear - with Koni yellows on the firmest setting, and I actually have fairly neutral handling in the turns. I can induce slight understeer with the throttle but if I modulate it right it's surprisingly a tight setup. I almost feel as if there's no need to keep adding bars and braces... just more money and weight... I only have a front 2 point upper strut brace.
That's not entirely necessary. EM1s have 26mm front sways with 13 mm rear sways, and with a decent choice of springs and dampers they handle alright. I have an EJ8 which is basically the same chassis minus a few minor reinforcements and I swapped in Si front LCAs with the 26mm bar. I'm also using the 13mm rear bar... was considering getting an ASR brace with a 19mm bar but I'm starting to think it might be overkill.
I have ground controls - 8kg/mm front and 6kg/mm in the rear - with Koni yellows on the firmest setting, and I actually have fairly neutral handling in the turns. I can induce slight understeer with the throttle but if I modulate it right it's surprisingly a tight setup. I almost feel as if there's no need to keep adding bars and braces... just more money and weight... I only have a front 2 point upper strut brace.
Cool Cool Island Breezes. BOY-EE
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 11,953
Likes: 9
From: TRILLINOIS....WAY downtown, jerky.
Re: (Blk00EJ8)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Blk00EJ8 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
That's not entirely necessary. EM1s have 26mm front sways with 13 mm rear sways, and with a decent choice of springs and dampers they handle alright. I have an EJ8 which is basically the same chassis minus a few minor reinforcements and I swapped in Si front LCAs with the 26mm bar. I'm also using the 13mm rear bar... was considering getting an ASR brace with a 19mm bar but I'm starting to think it might be overkill.
I have ground controls - 8kg/mm front and 6kg/mm in the rear - with Koni yellows on the firmest setting, and I actually have fairly neutral handling in the turns. I can induce slight understeer with the throttle but if I modulate it right it's surprisingly a tight setup. I almost feel as if there's no need to keep adding bars and braces... just more money and weight... I only have a front 2 point upper strut brace.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I think the EM1 has a decently balanced chassis, but I hate understeer. It does understeer, no way around it. I have a 99 Si.
Good spring choice, though. 8k/6k sounds pretty nice. With that setup, however, if you did the 22 or 23mm rear bar with ASR brace, you'd LOVE it. Controllable rotational oversteer is boss.
Or if you left your 26mm front/ 13mm rear bar, but flipped your springs around. Give it a shot. Aren't the ground controls interchangeable front and rear? Same length springs? Maybe I'm wrong.
That's not entirely necessary. EM1s have 26mm front sways with 13 mm rear sways, and with a decent choice of springs and dampers they handle alright. I have an EJ8 which is basically the same chassis minus a few minor reinforcements and I swapped in Si front LCAs with the 26mm bar. I'm also using the 13mm rear bar... was considering getting an ASR brace with a 19mm bar but I'm starting to think it might be overkill.
I have ground controls - 8kg/mm front and 6kg/mm in the rear - with Koni yellows on the firmest setting, and I actually have fairly neutral handling in the turns. I can induce slight understeer with the throttle but if I modulate it right it's surprisingly a tight setup. I almost feel as if there's no need to keep adding bars and braces... just more money and weight... I only have a front 2 point upper strut brace.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I think the EM1 has a decently balanced chassis, but I hate understeer. It does understeer, no way around it. I have a 99 Si.
Good spring choice, though. 8k/6k sounds pretty nice. With that setup, however, if you did the 22 or 23mm rear bar with ASR brace, you'd LOVE it. Controllable rotational oversteer is boss.
Or if you left your 26mm front/ 13mm rear bar, but flipped your springs around. Give it a shot. Aren't the ground controls interchangeable front and rear? Same length springs? Maybe I'm wrong.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 640
Likes: 0
From: Duarte, ca, us
I am currently running a 22mm asr ear sway with their reinforment plate...I am also runiing the EM racing triangulated trunk system... In front I have the carbing 3pt and the stock ex front sway. that is why I want to install the eibach 26mm in the front...I am running tokico blues with GC coilovers standard spring rates...I will be getting tein flex in 1 month....can anybody recommened any spring rates for the flex kit????and do they make custom spring rates???? my car handles great right now I can imagine with the eibach and flex upgrade.....
thanks again
thanks again
Cool Cool Island Breezes. BOY-EE
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 11,953
Likes: 9
From: TRILLINOIS....WAY downtown, jerky.
Re: (robs97)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by robs97 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am currently running a 22mm asr ear sway with their reinforment plate...I am also runiing the EM racing triangulated trunk system... In front I have the carbing 3pt and the stock ex front sway. that is why I want to install the eibach 26mm in the front...I am running tokico blues with GC coilovers standard spring rates...I will be getting tein flex in 1 month....can anybody recommened any spring rates for the flex kit????and do they make custom spring rates???? my car handles great right now I can imagine with the eibach and flex upgrade.....
thanks again</TD></TR></TABLE>
lol I've had TEIN flexes on my old S13. I wasn't overly impressed with them. The spring rates on the flex for the civic SUCKS.
I'm sure you could put any spring that will fit in there that you wanted. You could buy a skunk2 race spring with your custom rates, or a swift spring with your custom rates. As long as the size specs were the same, you can put it on the Flex's body.
The problem with the flex is that the damping kinda sucks. It may not be able to handle a higher spring rate on the stock damper valving. You can have them revalved for custom springs, though. But then...with all the expense of that, you could have just bought a better setup to begin with.
Counter productive.
IMO, a better setup would be to get some nice spring rates from GC. Then pair them with some Koni dampers. I recommend that setup a lot, but it's a genuinely good setup. A lot of people have been having good look with it, and I've ridden in and driven a car with a GC setup. Loved it.
Basically, GC/Konis > Tein Flex with stock spring rates and damping.
The lower level Teins arent all that great. I haven't had too much experience with their higher end stuff..but their higher end stuff just seems like the spring rates are SKY freaking high. They seem to be built for smooth race tracks. Not regular streets or bumpy tracks.
You have to figure out spring rates based on how you drive, where you drive, and how you like your car to behave. I dunno if you have gotten on a track yet, but the track is really the ONLY place to figure all that stuff out. If you're testing your car on back roads, I can tell you from experience that it's NOWHERE near the same as getting on a real track.
On a side note, I think I found a suspension that I'm insanely impressed with even on stock settings. I installed some KW V3s on my S2000 like a month or two ago. I didn't drive the car because I had it stored for the winter and I dont like getting salt or crap on it. It finally rained and washed all the salt off the roads around here like 2 days ago. So i figured I'd take it for a short ride. I have never been this insanely impressed with any other suspension setup. It's freaking awesome. The car rides like butter, and the handling response is crazy good. If you save up some green, I'd highly recommend these. They're not cheap, but they're nice. I cant wait for track season to start.
thanks again</TD></TR></TABLE>
lol I've had TEIN flexes on my old S13. I wasn't overly impressed with them. The spring rates on the flex for the civic SUCKS.
I'm sure you could put any spring that will fit in there that you wanted. You could buy a skunk2 race spring with your custom rates, or a swift spring with your custom rates. As long as the size specs were the same, you can put it on the Flex's body.
The problem with the flex is that the damping kinda sucks. It may not be able to handle a higher spring rate on the stock damper valving. You can have them revalved for custom springs, though. But then...with all the expense of that, you could have just bought a better setup to begin with.
Counter productive.
IMO, a better setup would be to get some nice spring rates from GC. Then pair them with some Koni dampers. I recommend that setup a lot, but it's a genuinely good setup. A lot of people have been having good look with it, and I've ridden in and driven a car with a GC setup. Loved it.
Basically, GC/Konis > Tein Flex with stock spring rates and damping.
The lower level Teins arent all that great. I haven't had too much experience with their higher end stuff..but their higher end stuff just seems like the spring rates are SKY freaking high. They seem to be built for smooth race tracks. Not regular streets or bumpy tracks.
You have to figure out spring rates based on how you drive, where you drive, and how you like your car to behave. I dunno if you have gotten on a track yet, but the track is really the ONLY place to figure all that stuff out. If you're testing your car on back roads, I can tell you from experience that it's NOWHERE near the same as getting on a real track.
On a side note, I think I found a suspension that I'm insanely impressed with even on stock settings. I installed some KW V3s on my S2000 like a month or two ago. I didn't drive the car because I had it stored for the winter and I dont like getting salt or crap on it. It finally rained and washed all the salt off the roads around here like 2 days ago. So i figured I'd take it for a short ride. I have never been this insanely impressed with any other suspension setup. It's freaking awesome. The car rides like butter, and the handling response is crazy good. If you save up some green, I'd highly recommend these. They're not cheap, but they're nice. I cant wait for track season to start.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,438
Likes: 1
From: the 609, NJ
Re: (B serious)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B serious »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Or if you left your 26mm front/ 13mm rear bar, but flipped your springs around. Give it a shot. Aren't the ground controls interchangeable front and rear? Same length springs? Maybe I'm wrong. </TD></TR></TABLE>
They should be interchangeable, as length and ID were the same on both when I installed them. I had Skunk2 coils before at 8k/6k and I like it... that's why I went with the same spring rate on the GCs. Skunk2s felt good but the GCs feel more refined. After the Skunk2 8/6 I went with 8/8 and the back was quite a bit firmer, but I don't think it improved handling much over the 8/6. Plus I could also blame my aging AGXs. After not too long the 8 in the rear blew both dampers. Oh well.
Anyway, I think I'd prefer upgrading the sway over running 6/8. I want to fine-tune the balance now and I think swapping springs would be too much.
They should be interchangeable, as length and ID were the same on both when I installed them. I had Skunk2 coils before at 8k/6k and I like it... that's why I went with the same spring rate on the GCs. Skunk2s felt good but the GCs feel more refined. After the Skunk2 8/6 I went with 8/8 and the back was quite a bit firmer, but I don't think it improved handling much over the 8/6. Plus I could also blame my aging AGXs. After not too long the 8 in the rear blew both dampers. Oh well.
Anyway, I think I'd prefer upgrading the sway over running 6/8. I want to fine-tune the balance now and I think swapping springs would be too much.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 640
Likes: 0
From: Duarte, ca, us
good stuff does any recommened a spring rate for the flex??what do they come with out of the box? I am currentley running tokico blue GC 340f and 250r.....will the tein flex be more firm out of the box or do I need to go and buy new springs??? I use this for DD and I dont race or anything I just dont want any body roll and no sagging nice and tight that how I like it.......
Cool Cool Island Breezes. BOY-EE
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 11,953
Likes: 9
From: TRILLINOIS....WAY downtown, jerky.
Re: (robs97)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by robs97 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">good stuff does any recommened a spring rate for the flex??what do they come with out of the box? I am currentley running tokico blue GC 340f and 250r.....will the tein flex be more firm out of the box or do I need to go and buy new springs??? I use this for DD and I dont race or anything I just dont want any body roll and no sagging nice and tight that how I like it.......</TD></TR></TABLE>
go to http://www.tein.com. I dont remember the actual spring rate #s, but I do remember them being kinda wack.
go to http://www.tein.com. I dont remember the actual spring rate #s, but I do remember them being kinda wack.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
halfkoreanboy
Suspension & Brakes
9
Apr 29, 2009 12:47 PM
