DIY: 11.1" rear disc upgrade for Integras with stock 9.4" rear discs
Okay heres another DIY. This brake upgrade is for all 90-01 Integras (except the Type-R). This uses a basic adapter bracket to relocate the stock caliper and use an 11.1" rotor for more brake torque, and better cooling. It can be had for 200$ for the adapters, rotors, and rings. This setup does not require a larger master cylinder or different proportioning valve, its is a 100% bolt on, no bleeding!!

Parts: Adapter plate, 14mm bolts, 11.1" rear discs (redrilled to 4x100), aluminum centering rings.
Tools: 14mm, 12mm, 10mm socket, socket wrench, phillips screwdriver, 19mm, wheel lock/lug nut adapter (if equipped).
1. Acquire all parts and tools.
2. Park car on level ground, park or leave in 1st. Jack the car.
3. Remove 19mm lug nuts and remove the wheel.
4. Unbolt the 14mm bolts that hold the caliper bracket to the spindle. Move the caliper off the rotor, but do not let it hang by the brake hose.
5. Unbolt the 10mm bolt that holds the brake hose to the trailing arm.
6. Unscrew the phillips screws holding the rotor to the hub. If your car is old, you may need to use an impact wrench. If this is not enough, reattach the brake, engage the e-brake, and use the impact wrench again.
7. Put the centering rings on the hub.
8. Install the adapter via two 14mm bolts to the spindle and torque the bolts to 80lb-ft.
9. Put the 11.1" rotors on.
10. Put the caliper bracket onto the adapter and tighten the 14mm bolts to 80lb-ft.
11. Put the wheel on, and torque your lug nuts to 80lb-ft for steel wheels, 75lb-ft for aluminum wheels.
12. Lower the car.
13. Repeat for the other side.
14. Bed the brakes in via the standard brake in procedure. I reccomend 10 firm stops from 60-10mph.
15. Enjoy the benefits of your 11.1" rear discs!

by BrakeExpert

Parts: Adapter plate, 14mm bolts, 11.1" rear discs (redrilled to 4x100), aluminum centering rings.
Tools: 14mm, 12mm, 10mm socket, socket wrench, phillips screwdriver, 19mm, wheel lock/lug nut adapter (if equipped).
1. Acquire all parts and tools.
2. Park car on level ground, park or leave in 1st. Jack the car.
3. Remove 19mm lug nuts and remove the wheel.
4. Unbolt the 14mm bolts that hold the caliper bracket to the spindle. Move the caliper off the rotor, but do not let it hang by the brake hose.
5. Unbolt the 10mm bolt that holds the brake hose to the trailing arm.
6. Unscrew the phillips screws holding the rotor to the hub. If your car is old, you may need to use an impact wrench. If this is not enough, reattach the brake, engage the e-brake, and use the impact wrench again.
7. Put the centering rings on the hub.
8. Install the adapter via two 14mm bolts to the spindle and torque the bolts to 80lb-ft.
9. Put the 11.1" rotors on.
10. Put the caliper bracket onto the adapter and tighten the 14mm bolts to 80lb-ft.
11. Put the wheel on, and torque your lug nuts to 80lb-ft for steel wheels, 75lb-ft for aluminum wheels.
12. Lower the car.
13. Repeat for the other side.
14. Bed the brakes in via the standard brake in procedure. I reccomend 10 firm stops from 60-10mph.
15. Enjoy the benefits of your 11.1" rear discs!

by BrakeExpert
this is one freakishly large rear disc as the fronts on integras aren't even 11"... even if you upgraded the fronts to "___x___" brakes, i'm not sure the cost of these new rears would outweight the benefits. they're more expensive, but why not just just do the RSX/EP3 rear discs/calipers?
Yeah this is for 11" and larger fronts really. How is this more expensive than the rear RSX upgrade?
The benefits of this setup are that there is no bleeding (for people who are new to hondas maybe or dont wanna bleed), you don't need to worry about bledding upside down (for RSX/EP3 calipers, they must be modified and swapped left to right to keep the e-brake in tact), the replacement pads cost less, and the parts are easier to get for this setup. the EP3/RSX calipers arent the easiest things in the world to source.
Well I actually made the adapter for these, don't if anyone else does. They are made of cold rolled steel and is a simple relocator with 2 holes for the caliper bracket and 2 tapped holes for the spindle.
The benefits of this setup are that there is no bleeding (for people who are new to hondas maybe or dont wanna bleed), you don't need to worry about bledding upside down (for RSX/EP3 calipers, they must be modified and swapped left to right to keep the e-brake in tact), the replacement pads cost less, and the parts are easier to get for this setup. the EP3/RSX calipers arent the easiest things in the world to source.
Well I actually made the adapter for these, don't if anyone else does. They are made of cold rolled steel and is a simple relocator with 2 holes for the caliper bracket and 2 tapped holes for the spindle.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BrakeExpert »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Well I actually made the adapter for these, don't if anyone else does. They are made of cold rolled steel and is a simple relocator with 2 holes for the caliper bracket and 2 tapped holes for the spindle. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I figured as much after I read some of your other threads. How beneficial do you think this is as it doesn't look like the pad makes full contact with the rotor. Would you be better off using a larger caliper to make full contact. I know its for the rear but it seems like you might as well get full use of the rotor.
Thanks
Well I actually made the adapter for these, don't if anyone else does. They are made of cold rolled steel and is a simple relocator with 2 holes for the caliper bracket and 2 tapped holes for the spindle. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I figured as much after I read some of your other threads. How beneficial do you think this is as it doesn't look like the pad makes full contact with the rotor. Would you be better off using a larger caliper to make full contact. I know its for the rear but it seems like you might as well get full use of the rotor.
Thanks
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cruizin01 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I figured as much after I read some of your other threads. How beneficial do you think this is as it doesn't look like the pad makes full contact with the rotor. Would you be better off using a larger caliper to make full contact. I know its for the rear but it seems like you might as well get full use of the rotor.
Thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>
I wold have to agree with said statement. The only thing that I see that you are getting out of this is slightly better cooling, most of the stopping force is proportioned to the front anyways, unless there is a valve that can be had that changes that or the stock one can be adjusted. And even then, shifting more of the stopping force to the back from the front + an inexperienced driver = tail sliding out under hard brake, which would be extremly dangerous for the inexperienced driver and anyone else on the road around them.
Now if there was a bigger caliper that can be added along with that that can be gotten from a junkyard to take full advantage of the bigger rotor then this would be an awsome upgrade that I would be seriously looking into.
Also what vehicle did the 11" rotors come off of?
I figured as much after I read some of your other threads. How beneficial do you think this is as it doesn't look like the pad makes full contact with the rotor. Would you be better off using a larger caliper to make full contact. I know its for the rear but it seems like you might as well get full use of the rotor.
Thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>
I wold have to agree with said statement. The only thing that I see that you are getting out of this is slightly better cooling, most of the stopping force is proportioned to the front anyways, unless there is a valve that can be had that changes that or the stock one can be adjusted. And even then, shifting more of the stopping force to the back from the front + an inexperienced driver = tail sliding out under hard brake, which would be extremly dangerous for the inexperienced driver and anyone else on the road around them.
Now if there was a bigger caliper that can be added along with that that can be gotten from a junkyard to take full advantage of the bigger rotor then this would be an awsome upgrade that I would be seriously looking into.
Also what vehicle did the 11" rotors come off of?
This does increase brake torque, and no its not as beneficial as having a bigger caliper/pad but that isnt an option on this rotor for disc spindles, thats what this is for:

Drum spindles, bigger caliper/pad.
The Teg/Civic caliper and 11" rotors is meant as a slight increase for the backs (doing only 20-30% of the work, some applications may only need this increase. Yes, shifting brake force with a bad driver can cause sliding, but ANY brakes with a bad driver can cause sliding, locking, etc, thats what ABS is for. This was created as the only option to jump to an 11" rotor for rear disc spindles and is a straight bolt on, there are other options and its not expensive. They are S2000 rotors.

Drum spindles, bigger caliper/pad.
The Teg/Civic caliper and 11" rotors is meant as a slight increase for the backs (doing only 20-30% of the work, some applications may only need this increase. Yes, shifting brake force with a bad driver can cause sliding, but ANY brakes with a bad driver can cause sliding, locking, etc, thats what ABS is for. This was created as the only option to jump to an 11" rotor for rear disc spindles and is a straight bolt on, there are other options and its not expensive. They are S2000 rotors.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BrakeExpert »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what do you mean the pad doesnt make full contact? Ive checked, its fine. And with this setup, no there is no bigger pad/caliper option</TD></TR></TABLE>
I meant coverage. It looks like there is atleast 1/2-3/4" inch of unused rotor on the inner part.
I meant coverage. It looks like there is atleast 1/2-3/4" inch of unused rotor on the inner part.
How is this a scam? Theres the picture, right there. Those rear S2000 brakes in the last picture were run on MY car, I can personally vouch for the fact that they work, very well I might add.
Yeah theres unused rotor area, theres unused area on any rotor, this just uses more. The pictured rotor had the hat painted and used with another application with drum spindles, custom adapters, and ITR rear calipers/brackets/pads, thats why there is more bare metal. With the actual setup, the usable area would be a thinner ring.
Yeah theres unused rotor area, theres unused area on any rotor, this just uses more. The pictured rotor had the hat painted and used with another application with drum spindles, custom adapters, and ITR rear calipers/brackets/pads, thats why there is more bare metal. With the actual setup, the usable area would be a thinner ring.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BrakeExpert »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How is this a scam? Theres the picture, right there. Those rear S2000 brakes in the last picture were run on MY car, I can personally vouch for the fact that they work, very well I might add.
Yeah theres unused rotor area, theres unused area on any rotor, this just uses more. The pictured rotor had the hat painted and used with another application with drum spindles, custom adapters, and ITR rear calipers/brackets/pads, thats why there is more bare metal. With the actual setup, the usable area would be a thinner ring. </TD></TR></TABLE>
And the area that used to have contact with pad, but now doesnt, will start to get covered with rust with the first contact of water and air and look like ****.
But like I said, if you had a caliper and pad combo that would cover the full width of the exposed rotor it might be worth it if even only for the asthetics of big expletive rear rotors.
Yeah theres unused rotor area, theres unused area on any rotor, this just uses more. The pictured rotor had the hat painted and used with another application with drum spindles, custom adapters, and ITR rear calipers/brackets/pads, thats why there is more bare metal. With the actual setup, the usable area would be a thinner ring. </TD></TR></TABLE>
And the area that used to have contact with pad, but now doesnt, will start to get covered with rust with the first contact of water and air and look like ****.
But like I said, if you had a caliper and pad combo that would cover the full width of the exposed rotor it might be worth it if even only for the asthetics of big expletive rear rotors.
Being you are so concerned with aestetics, I guess this wouldn't work. Unless...you could do something to that area. Something I did to the rest of the rotor. Oh yeah, paint it.
So you say a big rotor would look good for aestetics. Do you like the last picture I posted of the bigger pad covering that 11" rotor? If not, there is only one other setup. It uses a drum spindle and takes a vented rear disc. It looks like this:

This is a very powerful setup, but I personally like its aestetics.
So you say a big rotor would look good for aestetics. Do you like the last picture I posted of the bigger pad covering that 11" rotor? If not, there is only one other setup. It uses a drum spindle and takes a vented rear disc. It looks like this:

This is a very powerful setup, but I personally like its aestetics.
Nice upgrade, do you have pictures of the setup from the back side where the caliper mounts onto the new bracket?
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BrakeExpert
Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
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Feb 27, 2008 05:17 AM





