I just bought a 93 prelude with a v-tec motor, dc headers, cold air intake, and apex management, with exhaust. The car has a fuel to air ratio gauge, and it often acts eratically (bounces from rich to lean). The problem is when at a red light or intersection, the car acts as if the motor is loading up with fuel and flooding itself out. It causes the car to choke and cough and ultimately stall. I bought the car from a car lot and they say the previous owner heavily modified the car, which is obvious because its a rocket. But i did find a print out inside the car where someone had printed a fuel presure regulator page from the internet. Im thinking they had the same problem as i do now. Would replacing the fuel pressure regulator fix my problem? PLZ HELP!

 

could be your 02 sensor is not band wave or what ever its called...i don know really.

 

well i know the car is without catalytic convertors and could possibly even be without an O2 sensor. Havent actually looked, but i will now that youve mentioned it. but the car runs fine at wide band throttle, its at narrow band throttle that the car stalls. It has an apex v-tech vfac unit installed, so hopefully adjusting a few settings could help too. if anyone has experience with one of these units please please help.

 

take the car to a tuner shop who is familiar with the vafc and ask them to look at it to ensure that it is setup correctly for your car.

do you have any check engine lights?

if you have an adjustable fuel pressure regulator, you need to make sure the original owner set the fuel pressure correctly.

since your car is OBDI, not having a cat will not throw a check engine light as there is no secondary o2 sensor detecting catalyst efficiency.

did you drive this car before you bought it?

 

lol yes i did drive the car before i bought it and it drove fine. I've downloaded the manual for the v-fac and ive noticed that a few settings in it happened to be wrong, however since its snowing like crazy i havent had the chance to change the settings and drive the car. If i could find a local tuner shop to take it too, believe me i would, but being in the middle of hickville usa im having trouble finding one locally. The surprising thing is, i have no engine lights coming on inside the car.

 

My best piece of advice, if its just a vafc, look under the passenger footwell carpet at the ecu and wiring, see if they spliced the wires in or used a plug-n-play harness. If they used a harness, simply disconnect the battery, unplug the extra harnes part with the vafc attached, plug in your ecu normally, and reconnect the battery and see if it runs better.

 

Thanks for the insight, ill look into it first thing tommorrow. I'm hoping its just the V-AFC. If anyone else has any suggestions feel free to post em.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by snobordboi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My best piece of advice, if its just a vafc, look under the passenger footwell carpet at the ecu and wiring, see if they spliced the wires in or used a plug-n-play harness. If they used a harness, simply disconnect the battery, unplug the extra harnes part with the vafc attached, plug in your ecu normally, and reconnect the battery and see if it runs better.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes! The vafc is junk I had one on my 94 and I had nothing but problems with it. I had it dyno tunned with it and it was fine for a while but then it started putting my car into limp mode and somtimes it wouldnt start and start stalling at every stop sign. I switched to a HONDATA and never had another problem.

 

ive heard nothing but bad things about the vafc. are the hondata's relatively cheap these days? I adjusted some setting on my v-afc and thought i had the problem fixed, but apparently i didnt. the car ran great for about 35 minutes, but after that it went downhill again. Im honestly at a loss here.