Planning this out. 2000 EM1 Civic Si. I've always wanted the B18C5 shortblock assembly and have a good handle on all the ancillary parts I'll need, in addition to the ITR shortblock assy itself. My major stumbling block has always been ECU.... and my desire to stay legal in Cali with the BAR treatment, etc and not needing to do a shady smog place, etc.

USDM ITR ECU (P73) with immobilizer removed is the only legit option, right? Harness issues? At best, with the OEM Si ECU (P2T), it will be lean and redlining (if not VTEC engagement itself) should be a no-no, right? Maybe an FPR with increased juice, which goes towards the no-no area, of course (maybe take it off/stock fuel/ECU for smog checks)?

 

i have never ran into a problem like the as long as you use a b16 head and make sure all the sensors are connected the p2t (99 si) ecu should do just fine

 

If you want to be BAR legal either stick with the complete B16a2 or go with a complete B18c5. You will not pass BAR with a Type-R bottom end and a B16 head.

 

Right, but what ECU?

I plan on USDM ITR intake manifold and TB. What else is there for the BAR tech to know that my PR3 head is a B16 and not a B18C5?

 

P2T, I swear to god dude,it will run like a raped ape too.The heads are pretty much identical other than cams,intake manifold,and the dumb bs

 

Right, I don't really doubted it could be made to run... plenty of guys who have done that. I'm just a little less sure on getting it to run legally as far as the smog ****'s in Ca are concerned.

So looks like I don't need to burn any more money than a P2T. the common tuning mods (FPR, cam gears, etc) will fail a BAR, won't they? So tuning will have to be AFTER the cert/smog.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Uxi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Right, I don't really doubted it could be made to run... plenty of guys who have done that. I'm just a little less sure on getting it to run legally as far as the smog ****'s in Ca are concerned.

So looks like I don't need to burn any more money than a P2T. the common tuning mods (FPR, cam gears, etc) will fail a BAR, won't they? So tuning will have to be AFTER the cert/smog.</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you want to be legal you need to either stick the B16a2 you have or go complete B18c5. They are going to check the stamp on the head to verify the year of the motor on either of the two motor choices listed. They aren't stupid if that is what you are thinking. If you go B18c5, make sure the head is stamped 99 up. A FPR is an immediate fail

 

So im from VA, youll have to school me on that california BAR bs, so they go off the actual stamp numbers out there and not just emmissions test?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95ProjectEJ1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
If you want to be legal you need to either stick the B16a2 you have or go complete B18c5. They are going to check the stamp on the head to verify the year of the motor on either of the two motor choices listed. They aren't stupid if that is what you are thinking. If you go B18c5, make sure the head is stamped 99 up. A FPR is an immediate fail </TD></TR></TABLE>

You're in OC, coo. What ECU?

The stamp on the head identifies the type and year? I thought it just said PR3... which stamp is this and where's it at? VIN? If I gotta do the whole thing, probably easier (and cheaper) to do a JDM swap and do a whole "Motor Change" (with the appropriate USDM parts, of course).

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Uxi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

You're in OC, coo. What ECU?

The stamp on the head identifies the type and year? I thought it just said PR3... which stamp is this and where's it at? VIN? If I gotta do the whole thing, probably easier (and cheaper) to do a JDM swap and do a whole "Motor Change" (with the appropriate USDM parts, of course). </TD></TR></TABLE>

The stamp has i believe 5 circles with one of them being the year. i/e a circle with 9/9 in the middle.

 

the stamping on the head ...

tells what year the head is. the one above is from a 2000 b16
u can tell by looking at the first set of numbers (9/9) indicates that it was assembled in 99 but used in the next up coming year making it a 2000 b16a2 head.
hope this helps.

 

Which one of those says it's from an Si? Damn, of course didn't think the BAR guys are dumb... just didn't think there would be any way to externally identify an Si head from an ITR.

Anyone else in Cali have input on the ECU?

 

in the back of the head there is a casting number i believe give me a sec and ill see if i can find the one from my car.

 

this is from my LS head

on the b16's it would be stamped PR3-3 and the type R i belive its stamped PR3-4

 

both b16 and typr r are stamped pr3-3 depending on the year i believe

 

if u wanna get bar. get a complete stock b16a2 or complete stock b18c5. dont frankenstien it.